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Old 02-03-2008, 03:54 PM   #1
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Shortening backset on Olympic rivets

Hi all, I'm in the process of reassembling the external fittings to my 64 Sovereign, would anyone know of a practical solution for lowering the profile of Olympic rivets where they protrude from the rear of the penetration so the clearance of the original rivets is maintained along with some integrity. It is most apparent around the door and door within a door. Any help appreciated.
Pete
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Old 02-03-2008, 04:07 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petethefeet
Hi all, I'm in the process of reassembling the external fittings to my 64 Sovereign, would anyone know of a practical solution for lowering the profile of Olympic rivets where they protrude from the rear of the penetration so the clearance of the original rivets is maintained along with some integrity. It is most apparent around the door and door within a door. Any help appreciated.
Pete
Pete,

If you can get to both sides, why don't you use buck rivets?

Bill
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Old 02-03-2008, 04:08 PM   #3
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If you have access to both sides of the rivet, why not use solid rivets and buck them in. That is how the originals were installed.
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Old 02-03-2008, 04:17 PM   #4
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I only have olympic rivets on me, I can get to both sides on the rivets that are causing the problem, also, no-one here seems to know about buck rivets that would tie in with the exposed olympic look. Could you tell me where I might source them and what I should ask for?
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Old 02-03-2008, 04:40 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Petethefeet
I only have olympic rivets on me, I can get to both sides on the rivets that are causing the problem, also, no-one here seems to know about buck rivets that would tie in with the exposed olympic look. Could you tell me where I might source them and what I should ask for?
Buck rivets are available from Aircraft Spruce.

They are also available from most anyone at an airport where they repair aircraft.

You want 1/8 inch diameter, brazer head rivets.

If you still cannot find them, most Airstream dealers have them.

Do not attempt to shorten Olympic rivets.

Andy
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Old 02-03-2008, 04:42 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petethefeet
I only have olympic rivets on me, I can get to both sides on the rivets that are causing the problem, also, no-one here seems to know about buck rivets that would tie in with the exposed olympic look. Could you tell me where I might source them and what I should ask for?
Here: Solid Aluminum Rivets from Aircraft Spruce

Or, cruise by a local Airport, and talk to the mechanics. They will know where you can get those locally.

The ones you want are AN diameter is 5/32. Length is something you have to determine, I usually get an assortment of sizes. A pound is way too much, btw. start with a quarter of the sizes you think are best.
You also will need something that resembles this: BUCKING BARS from Aircraft Spruce

The rivet is set with an air gun, which holds a special shank matching the contour of the rivet head. A cheapo airhammer will do, if you're not using it that much. Make sure it has a speed adjustment.

A forum search for "bucking rivets" or "buck rivets" will likely reveal many more pages on the subject, probably enough for a full night's reading.
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Old 02-03-2008, 04:48 PM   #7
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Go to Frank's blog as he is close to beginning the Bucking process. Anna Lumanum

Also, come to my sight as we bucked the rivets on the windows back in the Jan 06 timeframe if I remember correctly;

http://sweetsoverign.blogspot.com

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Old 02-03-2008, 05:45 PM   #8
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Thanks heaps for all your help.
Pete
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Old 02-03-2008, 10:07 PM   #9
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I am not quite at that point yet, but just purchased all supplies needed. try this thread http://www.airforums.com/forums/f381...ize-38764.html Aerowood breaks it down as to what is the right size and how to know the code used it classify rivets. Big karma to Aerowood for his help.
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Old 02-04-2008, 09:09 PM   #10
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Andy, What is your part number for the bucking rivets you refer to. I need to get a few hundred from you.
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Old 02-05-2008, 06:19 AM   #11
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I am not Andy, but here is the info you need:
Here's a breakdown of how the numbers work
MS20470AD5-4
MS= Military Standard
20470=rivet head style, in this case universal head
AD=alloy of the rivet, in this case 2117 aluminum
5=diameter of the rivet in 32's of an inch
4=length of the rivet in 16's of an inch measured from the mating surface of the head

The rivets used on your airstream are what is called a brazier head and are no longer available. They were also 1/8 inch diameter. The replacement rivet is the universal head of which the 5/32 diameter is almost exactly the same head style as the old 1/8 brazier head. So to answer your question you will need to buy the 5/32 diameter.

The most used rivet gun is the 3X for these rivets and the thickness to be shot together. A 5/32 rivet set is also required.

The head of the rivet stays the same size after being shot, only the back of the rivet swells. this is called the bucktail. After the rivet is shot it should be around 1.5 diameters in size.

As to clecos you should get 1/8 and 5/32. 1/8 to hold it all together during the first assembly where you might have to tweak or adjust things a touch. When you are satisfied that you are ready to install the 5/32 rivets, step up the holes to a number 21 install the black clecos and shoot the rivets in.
Riveting tools can be found on E-Bay fairly reasonable using aircraft tools as the search

Hope that helps... Aerowood posted that in the thread I linked above. He is the man that knows about rivets, just search him in the forum and you will quickly realize that. I bought 1/4 pound of 5-3, 5-5, 5-6 and a full pound of 5-4. I will let all of you know how it went after this weekend.
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Old 02-05-2008, 06:21 AM   #12
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oh, one more thing.... the rivet are gold when you buy them. They have a coating to keep them from oxidizing. The gold color goes away when you polish.
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