Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 11-25-2009, 10:44 AM   #1
The truth has no agenda
 
MJMarkhams70's Avatar
 
1970 27' Overlander
Katy , Texas
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 240
Shell/Frame Reuniting

I am in the process of a "shell off" resto of a 70 Overlander. I have made the choice to totally rework this trailer to what I hope will be better than new condition. I have removed the shell and taken the frame down to bare metal, repaired some rust issues, and replaced the flooring with 3/4" marine grade plywood. The floor that I remove was 3/4 as well. (In case it matters, my trailer is a California trailer) I noticed that the frame without the shell has quite a bit of flex, which I expected to be normal. I am recycling the "C" channel as it was all in pretty good shape. I have begun the process of reuniting the frame and shell. I notice that a lot of the original rivet hole are aligning perfectly, but toward the center of the trailer it is not. it appears that the flex of the frame leaves a hump at the center. I jacked the frame up front and rear to take out the hump. this got everything to line up to what I thought was an acceptable result. I got the whole this bolted and rivets tacking the shell back to the "C" channels with everything looking good. I removed the jacks and the sides bulged out due to some of the sag returning to the frame. I am guessing that there has to be a system to this. Will I have to find a happy medium between frame sag and body bulge? I would prefer there be no bulge. Will I have to just reattached the body accounting for the complete sag of the frame and reattach the shell in its new location? I know this may not be a simple thing but I appreciate any guidance that you guys might be able to give...
__________________

__________________
MJMarkhams70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2009, 11:16 AM   #2
Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
 
Inland RV Center, In's Avatar
 
Corona , California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,499
Images: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by MJMarkhams70 View Post
I am in the process of a "shell off" resto of a 70 Overlander. I have made the choice to totally rework this trailer to what I hope will be better than new condition. I have removed the shell and taken the frame down to bare metal, repaired some rust issues, and replaced the flooring with 3/4" marine grade plywood. The floor that I remove was 3/4 as well. (In case it matters, my trailer is a California trailer) I noticed that the frame without the shell has quite a bit of flex, which I expected to be normal. I am recycling the "C" channel as it was all in pretty good shape. I have begun the process of reuniting the frame and shell. I notice that a lot of the original rivet hole are aligning perfectly, but toward the center of the trailer it is not. it appears that the flex of the frame leaves a hump at the center. I jacked the frame up front and rear to take out the hump. this got everything to line up to what I thought was an acceptable result. I got the whole this bolted and rivets tacking the shell back to the "C" channels with everything looking good. I removed the jacks and the sides bulged out due to some of the sag returning to the frame. I am guessing that there has to be a system to this. Will I have to find a happy medium between frame sag and body bulge? I would prefer there be no bulge. Will I have to just reattached the body accounting for the complete sag of the frame and reattach the shell in its new location? I know this may not be a simple thing but I appreciate any guidance that you guys might be able to give...
The frame must be supported, to make the shell fit correctly, as you have done.

The bulge in the middle can somewhat be rectified, if you modify the wheel well cut outs, and use the moldings that Airstream switched to in the 1974 models.

Those parts are called an inner and outer wheel well molding. @ pieces on each side.

They are not expensive, but to ship them, does cost a bunch.

It's better if you can have a local dealer get them for you, and you pick them up, instead of shipping.

Andy
__________________

__________________
Inland RV Center, In is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2009, 11:56 AM   #3
4 Rivet Member
 
1962 28' Ambassador
1962 30' Sovereign
Currently Looking...
Webster Groves , Missouri
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 309
Quote:
Originally Posted by MJMarkhams70 View Post
I am in the process of a "shell off" resto of a 70 Overlander. I have made the choice to totally rework this trailer to what I hope will be better than new condition. I have removed the shell and taken the frame down to bare metal, repaired some rust issues, and replaced the flooring with 3/4" marine grade plywood. The floor that I remove was 3/4 as well. (In case it matters, my trailer is a California trailer) I noticed that the frame without the shell has quite a bit of flex, which I expected to be normal. I am recycling the "C" channel as it was all in pretty good shape. I have begun the process of reuniting the frame and shell. I notice that a lot of the original rivet hole are aligning perfectly, but toward the center of the trailer it is not. it appears that the flex of the frame leaves a hump at the center. I jacked the frame up front and rear to take out the hump. this got everything to line up to what I thought was an acceptable result. I got the whole this bolted and rivets tacking the shell back to the "C" channels with everything looking good. I removed the jacks and the sides bulged out due to some of the sag returning to the frame. I am guessing that there has to be a system to this. Will I have to find a happy medium between frame sag and body bulge? I would prefer there be no bulge. Will I have to just reattached the body accounting for the complete sag of the frame and reattach the shell in its new location? I know this may not be a simple thing but I appreciate any guidance that you guys might be able to give...
You DID level the chassis front to back and side to side?
Bob
__________________
Xbob2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2009, 01:33 PM   #4
The truth has no agenda
 
MJMarkhams70's Avatar
 
1970 27' Overlander
Katy , Texas
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 240
yes sir, It was level.

It was when I had to remove the jack stands and blocking that I encountered the buckling on the streetside. I am planning to drill out all the rivets I put in on this past Sunday and go step by step again and see if I get different results. I also bought some aluminum stock today that I am going to use to make some "L" brackets to rivet to the sides of the ribs that I can put a bolt through to securely attach the ribs to the floor. if I have to undo the whole thing, I will, to make sure that I get this thing correct.

I just don't see how there wouldn't be some readjusting that had to be done to account for the 40 years of gravity that has been distorting things...
__________________
MJMarkhams70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2009, 02:20 PM   #5
Rivet Master
 
Minno's Avatar

 
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington , Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,323
Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
The bulge in the middle can somewhat be rectified, if you modify the wheel well cut outs, and use the moldings that Airstream switched to in the 1974 models.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post

Those parts are called an inner and outer wheel well molding. @ pieces on each side.
Andy,

What exactly is the difference between the moldings you mention above vs. the original ones I have on my 72 Sovereign?

Are you talking about just molding, or are there other parts as well, like replacement wheel wells themselves? I mean the inner and outer wheel well covers, which on mine are plastic (black and beige).

Thanks,
Chris
__________________
Minno is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2009, 02:45 PM   #6
The truth has no agenda
 
MJMarkhams70's Avatar
 
1970 27' Overlander
Katy , Texas
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 240
on the wheel well section of the sides, I was contemplating adding additional support by using some aluminum angle stock. I would have to be better than the ABS wheel well being basically the only strength there.
__________________
MJMarkhams70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2009, 08:33 PM   #7
Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
 
Inland RV Center, In's Avatar
 
Corona , California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,499
Images: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Minno View Post

Andy,

What exactly is the difference between the moldings you mention above vs. the original ones I have on my 72 Sovereign?

Are you talking about just molding, or are there other parts as well, like replacement wheel wells themselves? I mean the inner and outer wheel well covers, which on mine are plastic (black and beige).

Thanks,
Chris
Another typo on my part. Sorry.

There are "2" moldings on each side.

The wheel well area, ball park, is cut so that it's about 3 inches higher on your Airstream.

The plastic outside wheel well it self is also cut, which is all done from the outside. It's really an easy thing to do.

Look at the side view of the wheel wells on any Airstream from 1974 to present and you will see the improvement.

The new moldings, act as stiffners, if you wish.

Andy
__________________
Inland RV Center, In is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2009, 01:43 AM   #8
Rivet Master
Commercial Member
 
vinstream's Avatar
 
1962 19' Globetrotter
1963 19' Globetrotter
1961 19' Globetrotter
Wheat Ridge , Colorado
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 624
Images: 2
I will for the first time disagree with every other restoration shop out there! I have found that the way you are matching up the rivet(s) with where they were before, is wrong! This is your problem with why things are not lining up correctly! You are very right the frame by design has a lot of flex! The body does too! If you, like I do with all the trailers I restore measure and level everything to see how it looks before I ever pop one rivet will find one common thing! There is never any part of the trailer level! Due to I believe, with how the floor rots and twists and the weight of the trailer settles on the frame over time! SO all the pain that people do to brace and level the body, frame ext... is a waist! Your bracing the trailer as it was with a twisted body and frame. To do it right you need to level the Frame, them place the body on the trailer and re-level every part of the body! starting in the middle and working out to each end is the best way. You must make new placement of rivets and in the end everything is plum and level! This is the only way to do it right! Im sure others will disagree with me but I have seen their work and with a measuring tape and string very quickly you can find most of the trailer is not plum and level! Looking down the side of the trailer you can see if rivet lines are right or wrong! I find a lazier level used right is your best friend when doing this type of work!

You are not going to like this, but I would remove the body and start over and do it right!

Best of Luck... VIN
__________________
www.VINSTREAM.com
Wheat Ridge, Colorado
WBCCI # 1962
Instagram #Vinstream
vinstream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2009, 06:15 AM   #9
The truth has no agenda
 
MJMarkhams70's Avatar
 
1970 27' Overlander
Katy , Texas
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 240
Thanks for all the input. Over the long weekend, on Thanksgiving day to be exact, I was able to get the shell and frame back together and singing in harmony. I am really satisfied with the results. I do wish that I wouldn't have lost a day by having to undo things but I know that it is for the betterment of the whole project. The shell is by far not perfect due to the 40+ year of rock dings, scrapes and bumping into things. But I do believe that in the end she will show it all will grace. Best wishes to all, and Happy Airstreaming.
__________________

__________________
MJMarkhams70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Shell to Frame Alignment Dman Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 11 05-22-2008 06:36 PM
Getting the shell back onto the frame pinkflamingoes Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 5 05-30-2006 08:39 PM
Supporting shell to remove frame from below? JeepinAudiophile Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 23 11-23-2004 11:19 PM
Water Heater shell frame BobbyW Water Heaters, Filters & Pumps 0 04-29-2002 11:21 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:19 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.