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Old 10-02-2015, 01:34 PM   #1
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rivit leaks

I have been noticing a small amount or moisture build up around pop rivet in the ceiling thru the length of my 92 34. Could this be just condensation or Could it be a bad leak?
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Old 10-02-2015, 01:39 PM   #2
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It could be either. As for the possibility of a leak, I would concentrate on sealing the roof seams and those around vents, plumbing pipes, and the AC.
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Old 10-02-2015, 01:48 PM   #3
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More likely is thermal transfer from the outer skin to the rib to the inner skin then the pop rivet. If it is cooler outside, any moisture inside the coach will condense on the cooler rib lines and rivets.
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Old 10-02-2015, 02:17 PM   #4
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I have been noticing a small amount or moisture build up around pop rivet in the ceiling thru the length of my 92 34. Could this be just condensation or Could it be a bad leak?
Water leaks from the rain would almost always be in a small location.

Water on rivet heads thru out the trailer would most likely be simple condensation.

The easy fix, contrary to some opinions, is real easy.

Run the AC in cooler weather along with the furnace. It takes a little time to learn where to set each thermostat, but again, it's a simple task.

Once you have them set correctly, the interior air will be warm and the interior humidity will be lowered to the point that the moisture on the rivet heads will disappear.

Andy
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Old 10-02-2015, 02:44 PM   #5
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I have been noticing a small amount or moisture build up around pop rivet in the ceiling thru the length of my 92 34. Could this be just condensation or Could it be a bad leak?
Considering it's along the length of the trailer just on top then most likely condensation as atomic 13 suggests warm moist air rising to ceiling cold ribs transferring heat
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Old 10-02-2015, 02:56 PM   #6
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Airstream didn't add a thermal barrier along the ribs until the latter 90s. It only cured the condensation along the rib lines, did nothing for the dripping pop rivet heads!
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Old 10-03-2015, 07:34 AM   #7
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Thanks all the replies,I can't run the AC at this time but I will when I get home. I feel sure now, after hearing for you folks and some of the guys in our unit that it's condensation. Lowering the humidity will certainly remedy the problem.
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Old 10-03-2015, 07:54 AM   #8
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Water leaks from the rain would almost always be in a small location.

Water on rivet heads thru out the trailer would most likely be simple condensation.

The easy fix, contrary to some opinions, is real easy.

Run the AC in cooler weather along with the furnace. It takes a little time to learn where to set each thermostat, but again, it's a simple task.

Once you have them set correctly, the interior air will be warm and the interior humidity will be lowered to the point that the moisture on the rivet heads will disappear.

Andy
Andy, could you expand on that idea of running the AC and the furnace at the same time to reduce condensation. We are going to be traveling in our 310 for a few weeks this winter and need all the info I can get on winter camping. So does the AC continue to dehumidify even when its not cooling??

Mike
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Old 10-03-2015, 08:05 AM   #9
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Pretty standard idea, I think. In my wife's Honda, switching to windshield defrost turns on both the heater and the AC at the same time.

Lynn

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Andy, could you expand on that idea of running the AC and the furnace at the same time to reduce condensation. We are going to be traveling in our 310 for a few weeks this winter and need all the info I can get on winter camping. So does the AC continue to dehumidify even when its not cooling??

Mike
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Old 10-03-2015, 08:17 AM   #10
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Right, I know that but I guess I never thought of applying it to the heating n air in my 310. For instance, I wouldnt run the AC and the furnace in my home. Soooo, I am wondering, if I turn on the AC but leave the thermostat down low enough that the unit is still running but not cooling, is the AC still dehumidifying the air. Sounds like a great idea if one can get the balance right. Like you said in a car, the AC kicks on when you turn on the defroster but the air thats blowing is still warm from the heater. So its dehimidifying but not cooling the air.
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Old 10-03-2015, 10:11 AM   #11
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Wouldn't it be easier cheaper to either leave a window or vent cracked open, or use a dehumidifier?
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Old 10-03-2015, 10:48 AM   #12
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Maybe, I dont know. Andy from Inland is "da man" when it comes to Airstreams so I guess thats why Im interested. Plus we are going to be on an extended cold weather trip in a few months so I want to gather as much info as I can. I know I dont want to carry a dehumidifier if the AC will do the same thing and its mounted on the roof and doesnt take up storage space. I think most folks DO crack a window to help with the condensation, of course youre introducing cold air.
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Old 10-03-2015, 11:39 AM   #13
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Maybe, I dont know. Andy from Inland is "da man" when it comes to Airstreams so I guess thats why Im interested. Plus we are going to be on an extended cold weather trip in a few months so I want to gather as much info as I can. I know I dont want to carry a dehumidifier if the AC will do the same thing and its mounted on the roof and doesnt take up storage space. I think most folks DO crack a window to help with the condensation, of course youre introducing cold air.
Set the furnace to 78 degrees.

Set the AC to 79 degrees.

Then, go from there.

CAUTION: Those temps are an example only.

Always set the AC just a degree or two above the furnace temp.

Andy
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Old 10-03-2015, 06:31 PM   #14
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Andy has the right idea. This same technique is used in buildings as well. If the air outside is dry then vent in some outside air. If it is cold and wet you have no choice but to run the AC and the furnace or get a dehumidifier which really amounts to an AC unit.

Perry
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