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Old 01-24-2014, 10:01 PM   #15
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Old 01-24-2014, 10:39 PM   #16
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Thanks. Neither place made the top twenty or so on my internet search, but I'm excited to have new options to check out.

And I forgot to pose this question: it seems unanimous to use trem pro or like substance with Olympics. But is it also recommended for solid rivets? I do not see any evidence of sealant on the original rivets, but perhaps they cleaned up after. Trem pro(vulkem) with solid rivets?

And Steve at VTS explained that you want soft rivets, so if there is a structural failure you want a sheared rivet as opposed to torn skins. Makes sense to me. So with a brazier rivet you can visually spot a hard rivet by a characteristic dimple in the center of its head, while a soft alloy will be continuous and smooth. Just a little more airstream science (or trivia) for ya.
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Old 01-24-2014, 10:47 PM   #17
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Most restorers buck the seams wet , meaning that they use a sealant along the entire seam.
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Old 01-24-2014, 11:41 PM   #18
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Hey Rippie, riviting in an area like the hold down plate, like you mentioned, I personally would not use an A (soft) rivet, If there's a scenario involving skins being torn by AD rivets I doubt you'd want the trailer back afterwards. I'm not the Airstream pro but just wanted to add my opinion here.

And yup you can roll on some sealant before assembly then shoot the rivets, too much and it'll just be a mess. Try to wipe off ALL sealant from the rivet tails before bucking them too.
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Old 01-25-2014, 09:22 AM   #19
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We just bought rivets and cleco's from Aircraft Spruce as recommended in post # 12. Andy from Inland recommended them when we were in his shop as they are just down the street from him in Corona Ca.

They were very friendly and we worked with Tad.
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Old 01-25-2014, 10:03 AM   #20
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I had been under the understanding that brazier and (mod braziers) were desired as they were a "match" in size to the factory rivets. Universals would look and might stand out. I was not looking to order universals, so if they are acceptable replacements, that changes things entirely. They also look gold in the picture on the spruce site, but I'm guessing that's lighting or something.
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Old 01-25-2014, 10:14 AM   #21
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Universals (MS20470AD5-xx) won't stand out at all, the colour is very easily removed from the surface.
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Old 01-25-2014, 10:15 AM   #22
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The rivets I get from Aircraft Spruce have a coating that makes them look gold - but it's just a coating that will come off . . . and they are a little more "bulbous" than "braziers". I have, on occasion, taken the Rivet Shaver and made them look more like the originals . . . perhaps one day I'll shave them all, but right now I've got to keep moving towards the goal of actually using the trailer.
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Old 01-25-2014, 10:19 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truckasaurus View Post
Hey Rippie, riviting in an area like the hold down plate, like you mentioned, I personally would not use an A (soft) rivet, If there's a scenario involving skins being torn by AD rivets I doubt you'd want the trailer back afterwards. I'm not the Airstream pro but just wanted to add my opinion here.

And yup you can roll on some sealant before assembly then shoot the rivets, too much and it'll just be a mess. Try to wipe off ALL sealant from the rivet tails before bucking them too.
I'm in agreemant with truck on this, the hold down plates shoud use the 2117 aka AD rivets. The one problem you may have though, is the rivet gun you bought my not have enough power to shoot the -12 rivets you are refering to earlier in the AD alloy. The thicker the materail being shot together the more energy that materail absorbs from the rivet gun and that energy is not being transfered to the bucking bar.

Most Aircraft rivet suppliers will reqire the complete part number of the rivet being ordered. So if you are ordering Universal head rivets, (because frankly speaking here, the braizer head rivets have not been used in the aviation industry for decades) the head style number is followed up by the Alloy code, then diameter in 32th's then a dash and then the length in 16th's. so lets break it all down. The MS20 is for most rivets as the lead in number.

MS20470AD5-4
470 head style, in this case universal head
AD- alloy, in this case 2117 aluminum, A would be 1100 aluminum
5- diameter in 32th's
- is dash
4- length in 16th's so a 4 would be 1/4" long measured from the mating surface of the head


Hope this all helps
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Old 01-25-2014, 12:36 PM   #24
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What does the MS20 stand for?
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Old 01-25-2014, 01:04 PM   #25
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military specification
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Old 01-25-2014, 02:10 PM   #26
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Glad several others posted reply's as I would not have been able to answer your question. And I learned several things by their reply's (as usual). I was wrong anyway as we just purchased cleco's at Spruce but talked about rivets. At the time we were not sure which rivets to get so we waited and will possibly order from them in the future.

We have however ordered Rivets from "Tate Wire & Terminal Inc" in Davisburg MI. They may be wholesale only as we ordered and paid but ordered through our friends account.
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Old 01-25-2014, 03:14 PM   #27
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and the 20............?
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Old 01-25-2014, 06:34 PM   #28
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MS20 means Military Standard specification as far as I understand it, what the exact nature of the spec is I don't know and has to date not really been something for me to investigate. You can however use AN, Air Force-Navy instead of MS20 and end up in the same place if that works better.
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