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Old 09-13-2004, 12:09 PM   #1
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RIVETS, Rivets, and rivets

OK... Someone please explain rivets for those of us who don't get it. I take it a butt rivet is like a hammered rivet working from both side. But are all hand rivets pop rivets. I have some that have three legs the spread out and others that a little ball is pulled through a tube against the sheet metal. I have found aluminum, shiney aluminum and stainless. Some seem thin and others have thicker metal. So... whats the story. I thinks I get the drill hole size thing but the rivets come in a wide range of lengths.
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Old 09-13-2004, 12:48 PM   #2
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I'll step up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Over59
OK... Someone please explain rivets for those of us who don't get it. I take it a butt rivet is like a hammered rivet working from both side. But are all hand rivets pop rivets. I have some that have three legs the spread out and others that a little ball is pulled through a tube against the sheet metal. I have found aluminum, shiney aluminum and stainless. Some seem thin and others have thicker metal. So... whats the story. I thinks I get the drill hole size thing but the rivets come in a wide range of lengths.
The 'bucked' rivets are factory installed. The Olympic shaving head leg style pop rivet is used to replace the bucked. The ball or bulb style aluminum or steel rivets are also pop rivets. Their length is their grip range.
The Olympic's come in one length for the 5/32" diameter. The standard (non-shavable head) come in various lengths and diameters. Which length to use is dependant on how much material your going to sandwich together. What diameter to use is how much strength is required to hold the thing your working on securely in place.

As a side note, I made a serious error in judgement when I replaced the frig vent cover. The new covers (from Inland RV) come 28" in length to replace a 24" original. I simply cut the vent and slid the halfs 4" together and riveted them together. For some unknown reason I used a 3/16" diameter pop rivet. The end result is it looks terrible as the rivets I used were way overkill. The pop rivet heads are larger than the Olympic's as seen on the rest of the coach and now I've got a small Sherman Tank frig vent!
Hope this helps.
Ed
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Old 09-13-2004, 06:20 PM   #3
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So do the three leg rivets come in difference hardnesses. The ones I have sure seem soft.
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Old 09-13-2004, 07:23 PM   #4
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Has anyone used Cherrymax blind rivets? They would seem to be a good alternative to Olympic rivets where higher strength is required.
http://www.textronfasteningsystems.c...uct/rivets.htm
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Old 09-13-2004, 07:32 PM   #5
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Now those are some fancy rivets. Real cool animation to.
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Old 09-13-2004, 07:42 PM   #6
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Lightbulb Not sure, but...

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Has anyone used Cherrymax blind rivets?
After looking at the catalog briefly, I believe the rivet head comes in aluminum, but the shank does not. It's either Alloy Steel or Iconel 600. I also think they are more expensive than Olympic rivets.

Could be a couple of reasons they aren't used on Airstreams...

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Old 09-13-2004, 08:06 PM   #7
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I think a rivet that has a steel shank and aluminum head would be real useful for the belly pan!

Rick

p.s. Shari, you impress me with your use of technical jargon.
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Old 09-13-2004, 10:22 PM   #8
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Cherrymax rivets are the blind rivet used in aviation.They are quite expensive and have a steel shank.They are difficult to drill out.I'm sticking with aluminum pop rivets for the belly pan.
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Old 09-13-2004, 10:53 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Over59
So do the three leg rivets come in difference hardnesses. The ones I have sure seem soft.
I don't believe so. One hardness fits all. Its like your 400 ft-lb. model. I think what it comes down to is that the Olympic Bulb Tite is the closest match for OEM. The OEM equal is a bucked rivet. Your choice.

Ed
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Old 09-13-2004, 11:13 PM   #10
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Thanks, but...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Alston
p.s. Shari, you impress me with your use of technical jargon.
Don't be impressed...just repeating what I read ~ I look at this kinda technical spec stuff all the time in my business

Shari
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Old 09-13-2004, 11:40 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wardinbb
I don't believe so. One hardness fits all. Its like your 400 ft-lb. model. I think what it comes down to is that the Olympic Bulb Tite is the closest match for OEM. The OEM equal is a bucked rivet. Your choice.

Ed
Ed,
Olympic = OEM >> Not So.
AS uses Soft Rivets. Soft rivets have a tensile strength of 16,000 PSI.
Hard rivets have a tensile strength of 38,000 PSI.
Olympic Rivets have a tensile strength of 245 PSI. This according to their website. http://www.boltproducts.com/marson/...-bulb-tite.html This makes sense because if they had the same high tensile strength as bucked rivets then you wouldn't be able to put them in with a pop rivet gun. They would just be too strong to be workable.

The soft rivet would be the choice to replace with if it weren't for the fact that you have to remove so much inner panel to be able to buck them.This is why Olympic Rivets are suggested for replacement.
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Old 09-14-2004, 04:27 AM   #12
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You can Shave the heads too...

which gives the appearance of a bucked rivet. This is another advantage of the Olympic rivets. I don't think this would be feasible with a steel center pin. Also FWIW not sure if it was factory, though I suspect it was, they used steel rivets to install the banana wraps on my unit, and left the center pins hanging out, which made it a major pain to remove them.

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Old 09-14-2004, 05:48 AM   #13
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Quote:
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Ed,
Olympic = OEM >> Not So.
AS uses Soft Rivets. Soft rivets have a tensile strength of 16,000 PSI.
John,

Do you know when AS switched to soft rivets? Mine ('59) are all hardened, with the dimple.
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Old 09-14-2004, 09:41 AM   #14
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What about inside for the interior panels. Olympic or bulb or something else?
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