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03-24-2014, 08:52 AM
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#21
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4 Rivet Member
1960 26' Overlander
Wervicq-Sud
, FRANCE
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 296
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Of course, when I say much strong effort, I do attention not to be forced too much in order to not deform sheet or enlarge the hole.
It's new for me and I try to do no mistake.
For sure, I will do mistakes but I hope they'll are not very important.
Pop rivets are removed very easily without effort so I think that's aluminium pop rivet
And no... I don't know anyone to help me in France... for sure people knows this aircraft structure... but at the moment no... you are only my friends
I haven't many job to do with shapes and rivets, only to remove interior panels and around the Airstream to separate body from chassis. The body is a good condirtion
Thank you !
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03-24-2014, 06:53 PM
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#22
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4 Rivet Member
1963 28' Ambassador
Vintage Kin Owner
Northern VT
, Vermont
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 360
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A few tips you may find useful. Drill bits are inexpensive, buy quality bits in bulk, they usually come in packs of 10 or more. When you suspect one is dull throw it away. A dull bit can "walk off center" especially with solid rivets. With a dull bit we tend to apply to much force to the drill. The result can be when the bit goes through the rivet it continues through the outer skin before you can react to stop it. Occasionally you drill a solid rivet so perfectly a thin wall remains around the shank and you can not get it out. Resist the urge to "wiggle the drill". Place a small, thin, sharp putty knife between the rivet head and panel and tap it with a hammer. That will shear off the head. You will have "spinners", that is when a rivet is so loose the bit spins it instead of drilling it. Use the putty knife between the rivet head and body panel to create enough resistance to hold the rivet to allow drilling. If that fails use the putty knife and hammer to shear it off. Once you really get into it you will find your drill bit stacks up with rivet heads very quickly. To remove them from the bit hold the stack with the teeth of common pliers, spin the drill while gently pulling with pliers. They come off easy. You may want to leave a "short stack" of heads on the bit, they can act as a drill stop just to be safe. If you have a variable speed drill try it a slower speed most people find it preforms better. That's a few common issues I'm sure you will find more. we all do.
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03-25-2014, 08:16 AM
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#23
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4 Rivet Member
1960 26' Overlander
Wervicq-Sud
, FRANCE
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 296
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Yes, I agree, when I use slow speed to drill, I have better results !
I've tried to use a center punches to guide the drill but it isn't good :
This midday, I've removed all interior panels without difficulty except one thing... I forgot to remove an electrical plug... ! Not very easy with one arm to unscrew this plug as well it was the bigger panel ! Not heavy but very long... !
A few head rivets were fixed still on panel and a little punch on the hammer where I've placed this part (I don't know the word) between the hammer and the rivet :
And perfect result
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03-25-2014, 10:58 AM
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#24
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Vintage Trailer Supply
Commercial Member
1956 22' Caravanner
Vintage Kin Owner
Montpelier
, Vermont
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 134
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Gaël, the article I sent you should be very helpful.
For drilling out both buck rivets and blind rivets, I recommend this tool. It is used by many professional shops and they find it a big time saver....especially for the bucks.
Rivet Removal Tool
For drilling out buck rivets without the tool, I recommend using 135º split point bits because they center better. Split Point Drill Bits
We also sell a nice spring punch for bucks if you prefer it for starts. This tool puts a pin prick on the center of the rivet head and then you use a standard drill to finish.
Split Point Drill Bits
Sizing a buck rivet hole, as mentioned earlier, is very important. Do not oval at all if you can help it. If you drill out the 1/8" buck with a #29 or #30 bit, you can then decide whether you need to go up to the #21 and use 5/32" replacement rivets. Remember that 1/8" braziers and 5/32" modified braziers have the same head size....just different shafts.
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03-25-2014, 03:49 PM
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#25
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4 Rivet Member
1960 26' Overlander
Wervicq-Sud
, FRANCE
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 296
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My English is not very good thus I do not understand everything while it is maybe simple sentences, I try to make in best but I believe that I look complicated.
But for English, it must be very easy to understand !
I purshase the reading and I need to read several times !
I admit not understand very well the "brazier" because if I do an hole in 1/8", I have to put rivet of 5/32" ? isn't it ?
Many thanks for the article and I think it can help me too and I'll fix nex rivets !
So, soon I'll have to make an order in your store.
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03-26-2014, 12:44 AM
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#26
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4 Rivet Member
1960 26' Overlander
Wervicq-Sud
, FRANCE
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 296
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I'm stupid...
The brazier take place on the head of the rivet gun in order to fix new rivet...
Have a nice day everybody
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03-26-2014, 04:10 AM
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#27
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4 Rivet Member
1960 26' Overlander
Wervicq-Sud
, FRANCE
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 296
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03-26-2014, 05:40 AM
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#28
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Rivet Master
1966 22' Safari
Hilltop Lakes
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,767
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Brazier
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaël
My English is not very good thus I do not understand everything while it is maybe simple sentences, I try to make in best but I believe that I look complicated.
But for English, it must be very easy to understand !
I purshase the reading and I need to read several times !
I admit not understand very well the "brazier" because if I do an hole in 1/8", I have to put rivet of 5/32" ? isn't it ?
Many thanks for the article and I think it can help me too and I'll fix nex rivets !
So, soon I'll have to make an order in your store.
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Your English is much better than my French, so I'll have to stick with my native language, but I admire you for what you are doing.
Brazier is simply one style of rivet head, among many that are manufactured. There are round head rivets, flat-head countersunk rivets, and probably many more. Brazier is just a shape for the rivet head that shows on the outside of the metal.
The rivet gun drives a tool we call a rivet set. Here is where the English is confusing. This is a tool used to drive in, or "set" a rivet. Don't confuse the name of the tool with our use of the word set to mean a group of related objects.
Each style and each size of rivet head needs its own special style of rivet set tool, so that the tool does not damage the head of the rivet. Rivet guns are made so that changing the rivet set is quick and easy.
The rivet shank must be nearly the same size as the hole in the metal, or it will bend when it is driven and will be weak. Therefore, when the hole gets enlarged, we must drill the hole out to the next larger size and use the larger size rivet.
They do make special rivets that have the larger size shank and the smaller head. These can be used on an Airstream so that all rivets appear to be the same size. They cannot be used on aircraft, so the FAA documents I referred you to probably will not mention these.
Keep trying and maybe one of us will find words to explain all of this to you. Unfortunately, my study of your beautiful language was long ago and did not include technical words like "rivet."
Bonne chance!
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03-27-2014, 04:26 AM
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#29
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4 Rivet Member
1960 26' Overlander
Wervicq-Sud
, FRANCE
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 296
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Hello,
Thank you for the compliments about your admiration and about my beautiful language... Molière's language as we say...
But the english language is more easier to use all over the world... !
So, I would like have a fine english in order to restore the Airstream and for me too, I like learning different languages, I speak too spanish correctly (for my job), I can read russian because I like russian trucks but the understanding is not very good...
So, you explications are fine ! Each rivet has own brazier,
I understand very well now... and I know too that I have to use 5/32" rivets because I drill old 1/8" rivets.
PS : Rivet en French is... rivet !
Thank you again !
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03-27-2014, 05:11 AM
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#30
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Rivet Master
1973 27' Overlander
Loganville
, Georgia
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,741
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It looks like you are about ready to start to build a new interior. Save your old walls to use as templates.
Brian
__________________
Brian & Adrienne
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03-27-2014, 05:30 AM
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#31
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4 Rivet Member
1960 26' Overlander
Wervicq-Sud
, FRANCE
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 296
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Yes Brian, I've already kept all interior panels and wood parts from shelves, bed etc...
Thank you for your advize !
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03-27-2014, 06:42 AM
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#32
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Rivet Master
1966 22' Safari
Hilltop Lakes
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,767
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So, you explications are fine ! Each rivet has own brazier,
You're almost right. The tool you're calling a brazier is what we call a set. There is a special set (meaning a tool, not a group) for each style and size of rivet head.
Try this website
Aircraft Tool Supply Company
They sell all kinds of rivet guns, sets, bucking bars, clecos, and other aircraft sheet metal working stuff. Should be pictures to associate what we're saying with what we're talking about. A picture is worth a thousand words--wasn't that Confucius?
I admire your wide range of languages. I have studied French and Portuguese, but that was long ago and very little is left in my poor old mind.
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03-27-2014, 07:24 AM
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#33
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Rivet Master
1966 22' Safari
1954 22' Flying Cloud
Saline
, Michigan
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 854
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[QUOTE=mimiandrews;1433831] A picture is worth a thousand words--wasn't that Confucius?
No I understood :>)
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03-27-2014, 08:27 AM
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#34
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4 Rivet Member
1960 26' Overlander
Wervicq-Sud
, FRANCE
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 296
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Yes, sometimes... no... often, picture is worth a thousand words !
Near from France, I know Rivet Guns, Rivet Snaps & Accessories - Aerospace and Engineering Tools Limited in UK
They are the same but higher prices...
In this page, we can see rivet gun, brazier.
If I understand well, the brazier is a part from the head rivet gun... ?
Miniandrews : It is never too late to learn !
goshawks00 ?? What would you like to say ?
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