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Old 08-29-2004, 09:06 AM   #57
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[QUOTE=wahoonc]Ken, the air riveter doesn't use that much air because it is a short cycle not continous like a sander, shear or air chisel.

Thats what I had figured, but wanted to make sure - each rivet takes about 2-3 seconds to set from what I understand, so its not in constant use and I figured at that rate, the compressor would have lots of time to catch up. My compresser does recover pretty quickly when it does come on.

Tools are good

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Old 08-29-2004, 11:03 AM   #58
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[QUOTE=Ken J]
Quote:
Originally Posted by wahoonc
Ken, the air riveter doesn't use that much air because it is a short cycle not continous like a sander, shear or air chisel.

Thats what I had figured, but wanted to make sure - each rivet takes about 2-3 seconds to set from what I understand, so its not in constant use and I figured at that rate, the compressor would have lots of time to catch up. My compresser does recover pretty quickly when it does come on.

Tools are good

Ken
Ken,
I have a small air hammer which has a regulator built into it. I used it on full power to convince some rusted bolts on my frame to come out, and it did not require much cfm. My compressor is a 5hp tank type, and it does not work hardly at all with the air hammer. Die grinders and sanders require huge cfm, but the air hammer, air shear,and air ratchets usually work very well with smaller compressors.
I am going to try some riveting tomorrow, just got rivets and shank and bucking bar yesterday at aircraft spruce. If my air hammer does not workj well enough, then I will get a better one from aircraft spruce.
Indeed, tools are good!
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Old 08-29-2004, 11:39 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
John,

It's a Chicago Pneumatic zip gun, model CP-711, model A. It's very useful for splitting mufflers.

OK, you caught me in a slight exaggeration. It's not really on/off, just seems like it compared to the new rivet gun. If I turn the pressure down low enough to match the lowest BPM of the rivet gun, the piston tends to jam.

The rivet gun has a lighter piston and runs slower at max throttle. I guess this is a case where I had to suck it up and spend the money.
Yes a rivet gun does cost a whole lot more than an air hammer. I have used both and really don't see that it is so far apart. The real key in bucking rivets is to use short trigger bursts and to keep pressure against the rivet head.
In turning down the air hammer's pressure I only turn down to around 75 psi and it still works fine.
If I were to have to replace my rivet gun today I really think I would just buy an air hammer instead.
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Old 08-29-2004, 01:15 PM   #60
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Don't forget air tool maintenance. Oil them before and after use, to keep things from jamming and rusting. Compressed air contains a lot of moisture, which can ruin an air tool in no time.
Water seperators, and filters are a good investment if you use the air tool very frequently. Especially if you run expensive tools.
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Old 08-29-2004, 02:48 PM   #61
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Don't forget air tool maintenance. Oil them before and after use, to keep things from jamming and rusting.
Good advice, thanks. I have a water separator and an oiler, but I still put a shot of oil in the butt end before I use them.

I haven't been oiling them after use, which is probably why I had to take my air drill apart and fix the throttle, it had gotten gummed up after sitting too long.
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Old 08-29-2004, 03:47 PM   #62
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Hmmm thanks for the reminder Uwe - I too oil before each use, never really think about after use. While we are at reminders, don't forget to drain the tank from time to time. That is something I do often when I'm finish using it - I let the air out of the drain valve to get whatever watar is in there out.

Let me know how the bucking goes - I'm almost there been reading all I can about bucking rivets - the best I can see is not too much, not too little - hope thats not easier said than done.

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Old 08-29-2004, 07:01 PM   #63
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I'm not bucking rivets yet, but I am bucking 'nails'

I'm putting a band of 1/8" aluminum around the edge of the plywood in the rear, to protect the epoxy sealed end grain.

I found it darn near impossible to drive the aluminum nails in without bending them. It's an awkward position, what with the bumper in the way.

So I put a 1/8" set in my new rivet gun and used it to drive the nails. Sure works great.
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Old 08-29-2004, 09:21 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by markdoane
I'm not bucking rivets yet, but I am bucking 'nails'

I'm putting a band of 1/8" aluminum around the edge of the plywood in the rear, to protect the epoxy sealed end grain.

I found it darn near impossible to drive the aluminum nails in without bending them. It's an awkward position, what with the bumper in the way.

So I put a 1/8" set in my new rivet gun and used it to drive the nails. Sure works great.
Wow, you're actually using it as a hammer. That's something I never thought of. Glad to hear it works out ok. Got to remember this one....................
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Old 03-29-2005, 12:28 PM   #65
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How did your rivet gun work out?

Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
In for a penny. . . .

Ordered my 'tools' a few minutes ago from Aircraft Tool supply.
Got the 2602 rivet gun, two bucking bars, set of sets (?), two bags of 5/32 rivets, 75 Clecos and pliers, pressure regulator, deburring tools. Total was $236., with free shipping.

So if anyone needs something riveted in Minneapolis, give me a call. I want something to practice on before I start working on my own trailer.
Hi Don,
I wanted to know how this gun worked out? I will be purchasing one shortly and this seems to be the best deal. Please give me any info or suggestions you have. I just want to be sure this will be a good gun.
Thanks
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Old 03-29-2005, 12:30 PM   #66
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Also, what length of rivets are you using?
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Old 03-29-2005, 01:00 PM   #67
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If I could jump in - I bought a $10 rivet gun from Harbor Freight which seems to work great (thanks to Uwe for suggestion) and bought all different sizes of rivets, bucking bar, rivet set and clecos from Aircraft Spruce.

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Old 03-29-2005, 01:04 PM   #68
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The rivet gun worked out great! Same for the set, bucking bars, clecos.

I made an estimate of how many rivets I needed of each length I needed. As usual, I made a spreadsheet, with entries for how many layers of which thickness aluminum I would be riveting, and conversion factor from decimals to 16ths to rivet length. Very anal.

So I guess for doing a shell-off, and replacement of one side sheet, I think I used about a half pound of 5's, a pound of 6's, half a pound of 7's.
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Old 03-29-2005, 04:50 PM   #69
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Unhappy Cleco?

As a chicken...t buyer of a new 22ft CCD (forgive me and think of it as "future vintage") I didn't want to appear dumb enough to ask "what is a Cleco" - so I did a google search and there's a bunch of Cleco stuff on ebay right now.

I don't know if it's a good deal, but if you're looking...

Tin Lizzie
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Old 03-29-2005, 06:12 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken J
If I could jump in - I bought a $10 rivet gun from Harbor Freight which seems to work great (thanks to Uwe for suggestion) and bought all different sizes of rivets, bucking bar, rivet set and clecos from Aircraft Spruce.

Ken J
I went to Harbor Freight and the only rivet guns they had were the blind rivet type. They did have some cheap air hammers. Is this what you meant? Can you fit the rivet set inside any air hammer?
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