Ordered my 'tools' a few minutes ago from Aircraft Tool supply.
Got the 2602 rivet gun, two bucking bars, set of sets (?), two bags of 5/32 rivets, 75 Clecos and pliers, pressure regulator, deburring tools. Total was $236., with free shipping.
So if anyone needs something riveted in Minneapolis, give me a call. I want something to practice on before I start working on my own trailer.
When I was in school we practiced on one foot square pieces of aluminum.I must of installed over a thousand rivets that way.I did the same with my wife to get us up to speed, except we only did about 20 rivets as I was paying for them this time.We moved from there to the rivets that go under the belt line as any mistakes would be covered up.
It does take a little while to get used to the way a rivet hammer will drive a rivet. Even a pro always uses short trigger burst. Just make sure your catcher is in tune with you cause if they remove the bucking bar the rivet hammer is going to dent the metal.
__________________ Just adding my 2˘ worth
John G ___________________________ 1975 31ft Sovereign International ........Rear Bath Double Bed Model Tow Vehicle:1999 GMC Serria SLE Classic 1500 5.7Ltr System: Jordon 2020 Ultima Brake Controller Hook-Up: Equalizing Hitch and Sway Bar
Structurally, olympic rivets are OK compared to buck rivets.
In practice, they are superior, since you really don't need special tools, unless you want to, so as to save labor time, when performing metal replacement.
With respect to cost, olympics are terrible, compared to bucks. You can usually obtain about 50 to 75 buck rivets, for the price of one olympic rivet.
Bottom line? Olympics have proven themselves in time, to withstand the punishment that we give them, provided that you use those WITHOUT, washers.
The washer type olympics are not designed for long term use.
They are designed to assist those that chose to do less than top quality repair. Olympics with washers, do not, and will not hold up when exposed to hot temperatures, such as we have in our California deserts. How do we know?
I am restoring a 64 Bambi II. Body on floor replacement. Sealing the outside before interior work starts. After overhauling all the windows and sealing all the seams, I am reinstalling the drip-cap over the front window. My question is, I got a rivet shaver from Airstream Dreams and I can't seem to get the cutter adjusted shallow enough to reach the rivet heads. Instructions seem fairly simple, but try as I might, I can't reach the rivet.
I just know one of you has run into this before. Help!
I'd call Airstream Dreams. If you followed the directions (with the adjusting collar and all that stuff) and it still doesn't work, it may be defective.
Slide the collar (under the retaining ring) back and hold.
Turn the tip in or out. The tip will stop in 1/8 th turn increments.
Remember to spin the retaining ring back down to hold the collar.
Brett,
Thanks to Brett and Don for responded to my question about adjusting the rivet shaver. The problem was that I wasn't pushing hard enough. The mechanism was quite stiff the first few times. Once it loosened up, the tool works smoothly.
Two tid-bits here:
I have popped hundreds upon hundreds of rivits, blind and otherwise with a hand rivit tool from Stanley. It has a moveable head for tight spaces. I paid about $30.00 for it and just bought a Harbor Freight version for $8.00. I must be missing something by going pneumatic...
As for removing the "tits" off of an olympic rivet, I use a dremel tool and my steady hand and the results are pretty clean. The rivet shaver is a nice tool, but I am morally opposed to paying $179.00 for it when the results are slightly cleaner than the Dremel method. How often do you receive compliments on your rivets anyway?
Two tid-bits here:
I have popped hundreds upon hundreds of rivits, blind and otherwise with a hand rivit tool from Stanley. It has a moveable head for tight spaces. I paid about $30.00 for it and just bought a Harbor Freight version for $8.00. I must be missing something by going pneumatic...
As for removing the "tits" off of an olympic rivet, I use a dremel tool and my steady hand and the results are pretty clean. The rivet shaver is a nice tool, but I am morally opposed to paying $179.00 for it when the results are slightly cleaner than the Dremel method. How often do you receive compliments on your rivets anyway?
It's like this: If you have time and big arms, use the hand riveter. I take mine out whenever it's a small job, like 10 or so rivets. Anything more, and the compressor comes on, because my arm gets tired, and the rivet job is not as neat as with the pneumatic riveter. Try it - you might just like it.
Speaking of neat:
I have repaired panels on my 63, obviously done with a dremel or similar tool and it does not look very good. I wish they had used a rivet shaver, or taken more time to do it right, because now I will have to re-do it. A shaver works consistent, making the repair look nice and professional, all the wau down the line. Again, I would not buy it for 2-3 rivets, but for a large panel, I believe it's worth it.
It's like this: If you have time and big arms, use the hand riveter. I take mine out whenever it's a small job, like 10 or so rivets.
I agree totally. These arthiritc wrists have had enough squeezing. I also agree that the pneumatic does a more consistant job, and doesn't leave the ocassional tail sticking out.
I bought a pneumatic shear for making long cuts in aluminum. Aviation snips really wear me out. Tools nowdays are so cheap, at Harbor Freight or Northern Hydraulic, that you can use them and throw them away if they wear out. Which will be long after I'm through with them.
I bought a pneumatic shear for making long cuts in aluminum.
Where did you get it? I have a hand shear which is slowly wearing out, one that would do 1/4" steel would be nice but I don't think the neighbors would like the noise. Pneumaitc sounds like it would be heavier than what I have.
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