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Old 01-01-2009, 12:41 PM   #15
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Scott,

See this thread post 30 - maybe you could "roll your own" for the size job you have out of surplus parts.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...t-40328-3.html

Tools and Hardware,Page 13
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Old 01-01-2009, 01:02 PM   #16
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Thanks Gary,that's a great resource, also other related tools as well. For that price it would be worth ordering and giving it a try. Thanks!
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Old 01-01-2009, 06:44 PM   #17
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It's not so hot in WI in the Summer

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Wow, that is incredibly generous, Ed. You are clearly filled with The Airstream Spirit!


So far I've been shaving mine with a dremel. It is tedious and time-consuming. If I ever had to do a panel replacement, I would buy a rivet shaver, and just consider it the cost of Airstream repair.
Airstream Spirit? Naw I just love to use that tool. Hook up and escape the mid summer Texas heat ( I hear that Texas is 3 feet from hell in the summer) and come to WI. We'll shave rivets until the battery dies in the drill!
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Old 01-01-2009, 11:48 PM   #18
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If you only have a few rivets ask an Airstream dealer to shave them down for you. I agree, they are costly to buy. I bought mine at Vintage Trailer Supply.
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Old 01-02-2009, 12:17 AM   #19
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Another thought Scott... I think shops that work on box bodies for trucks use the Bulb rivet.. (like Weisco, or other body shops that make the 10' cube vans, Uhauls and the like)...

Anyone around you that may grind the rivets for the trucks?

I too have some exterior patches to do.. (I have entertained a streetside skin repair.... but really don't want to). For just the patches, I'll use my Dremel... how about painters tape around the rivet to protect the skin?

Rain - about 36 degrees here... all the passes are closed though....
Marc
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Old 01-02-2009, 08:32 AM   #20
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Another thought Scott... I think shops that work on box bodies for trucks use the Bulb rivet.. (like Weisco, or other body shops that make the 10' cube vans, Uhauls and the like)...

Anyone around you that may grind the rivets for the trucks?

I too have some exterior patches to do.. (I have entertained a streetside skin repair.... but really don't want to). For just the patches, I'll use my Dremel... how about painters tape around the rivet to protect the skin?

Rain - about 36 degrees here... all the passes are closed though....
Marc
I know virtually nothing about this topic - just reading to try to learn in case I ever have to have a go at it!

But, it occurs to me that if you are going to try to use a dremel to dress the head, wouldn't a very thin metal shield - stainless or alum - with a hole in it sized to fit around the rivet head be a good way to protect the surrounding trailer skin against a slip of the dremel? I would think that if you tried to protect the trailer skin with tape, the dremel would go thru it like a shot.

I picture it as nothing more than say a 2" square of thin sheet metal (almost like a draftsman's erasing template) with a central hole to match the rivet head that you would just tape in place before starting to dress the rivet head.

Apologies if this sounds like rubbish - as stated i've never had occasion to do anything with rivets on my trailer - yet!
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Old 01-02-2009, 09:08 AM   #21
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Not rubbish at all Brian, sounds like it would work.

Personally, I haven't had any real trouble with the dremel sliding off the rivet, it just takes extra care. But better safe than sorry, and creating a shield of some type would give you extra insurance against a slip.

I think Scott is going to check out the microcounterstop and shaving bit, so I'll be really interested to see how that works out for him.

-Marcus
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Old 01-02-2009, 09:12 AM   #22
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Dremel

I did a replacement window with a dremel. It did fine. Not quite as pretty as a grinder but then I am not that picky about a small flat spot on a rivet. If I were to do anything larger I would get the tool.
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Old 01-02-2009, 12:24 PM   #23
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Not rubbish at all Brian, sounds like it would work.

Personally, I haven't had any real trouble with the dremel sliding off the rivet, it just takes extra care. But better safe than sorry, and creating a shield of some type would give you extra insurance against a slip.

I think Scott is going to check out the microcounterstop and shaving bit, so I'll be really interested to see how that works out for him.

-Marcus
Marcus,

One thing I don't understand in trying to follow this thread is what the "shaving" or dremel grinding really achieves?

Is the Olymic rivet not more or less a one-sided pop rivet style of fastener as opposed to a traditional bucked rivet?

If that is so, don't you wind up with a hole in the end and possibly a broken mandrel stub, which i guess would be snipped off?

How does this wind up eventually looking like a factory bucked rivet? Do you have to fill the mandrel hole with something and then grind or shave to simulate the appearance of a solid river?

Just wondering!
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Old 01-02-2009, 01:04 PM   #24
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Pop rivet stems break off below vs Olympic rivet stems stick out beyond the head

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One thing I don't understand in trying to follow this thread is what the "shaving" or dremel grinding really achieves?

How does this wind up eventually looking like a factory bucked rivet? Do you have to fill the mandrel hole with something and then grind or shave to simulate the appearance of a solid river?
The Olympic rivets are similar to pop rivets from the top side, except the stem breaks off and leaves a portion sticking out of the hole that needs to be cut/ground/shaved off. The stem is essentially the same size as the hole, so when it is shaved it kinda fills in the top - the gap between the stem & head is nearly invisible. A shaver puts a dome on the stem/head so that it looks like a bucked rivet when you are through.

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Old 01-02-2009, 01:06 PM   #25
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The Olympic rivets are similar to pop rivets from the top side, except the stem breaks off and leaves a portion sticking out that needs to be cut/ground/shaved off. The stem is essentially the same size as the hole, so when it is shaved it kinda fills in the top - the gap between the stem & head is nearly invisible. A shaver puts a dome on the stem/head so that it looks like a bucked rivet when you are through.

Shari
Shari - Ahaaa! Now I understand! Thanx ......... Brian.
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Old 01-02-2009, 03:59 PM   #26
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Also use Vulkem on each Olympic Rivet. This will ensure a water tight seal.
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Old 01-02-2009, 04:17 PM   #27
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Lightbulb

...and DON'T buy the Olympics w/ washers. The rubber washers deteriorate over time - like rubber bands, which means you will have gaps for water to get in where the washer was.

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Old 01-02-2009, 04:31 PM   #28
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Shari:
Thanks for clarifying the Rivet Shaver. I am like Wingeezer. I have been following this thread and I keep wondering what the h--- is a Rivet Shaver. Fortunately I have never had the need for one, even with my 71 model.
Have a good year.

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