Rivet Removal

[pap]

I have noticed removed rivets that have still got a stub sticking up. Should this be there if the right #30 twist bit was used in removal?
Sometimes this can't be tapped inside, what to do about this?

What are the correct tools to use to pre-punch the rivet head?
I use an awl, but isn't there a self centering tool that is spring loaded? What is that called and what does it cost aprox.Where can it be bought?

Also when the rivet is the type with the well hole in the center after squuzing, is that hole open all the way thru, and thus necessitating filling it with pookey?

Rivet Link >>>> to see also: http://www.airforums.com/forum...et+and+removal

[74Argosy24MH]

A #30 drill is .1285", the rivet is .125 so you are probably off center if you have anything sticking up. You can get closed end pop rivets that are made to be water tight.

John

[pap]

Punch Tool ...Does it exist
I still would appreciate an answer to this part of my questions from above. I recall there was a member here who knew alot about riveting tools, but cant recall whom. Maybe Idaho Frank? I guess a good machinist could fabricate such a device but who knows?


quote:
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What are the correct tools to use to pre-punch the rivet head?
...... isn't there a self centering punch tool that is spring loaded? What is that called and what does it cost aprox.Where can it be bought?
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Thanks to you John for the info.

BTW are all pop rivets with the hole, open all way thru, allowing water infiltration thru center of rivet?


__________________

[FrankR]

Patience and some direction. The rivets used on Airstreams are commonly called "pop" rivets. Airstream uses a tool to smooth the outside to take on the "look" of a solidbucked rivet. Solid rivets are used for high strength as in the aircraft world. Pop rivets mostly have a loose seperate center called a mandrel. By pulling on the center mandrel the rivet is expanded and compressed. Most of the time the center mandrel is able to be punched into any void behind the installed rivet. On many occasions, a sealer is placed into center of rivet.
There is an automatic center punch made by many machine tool companies. The auto center punch would be of little value for Airstream rivet work. The punch for pushing mandrels into rivets are called a drift punch with a flat round work end. The drift should be about 0.120 or a little smaller that the river mandrel. A correctly sharpened prick punch in trained hands will make an accurately placed drill mark. Aircraft also use a hand prick punch. Working on aluminium sheetmetal requires patience, care and knowledge.
Rivets that crush and leave some mandrel showing maybe poor quality rivets. I mostly use an import rivet squeeze tool operated by air. Cost is about $50. Just about every rivet is pulled very good. If there is any interest, I'll post a picture of tool.......

[74Argosy24MH]

The interior rivets are pop rivets, the ones through the outer skin are bucked rivets. I drilled hundreds of them out, not one pop or Olympic rivet. A picture of the factory tour on the Airstream site even shows an employee with a rivet gun.

John

[dufrain]

you can get that spring loade center punch at harbor freight or northern tools.they both have a website.you could probably get one on ebay as well.they work good ,i have one they are like 5 bux or so.i have to start in with the olympic rivets soon to.

[Tripp]

You can get a sping loaded punch at your local hardware store. HD and Lowes both have them.

Tripp

[buda]

I have a self centering, spring loaded punch I bought years ago.
It's made by Stanley. It fits over the rivets.

[buda]

Punch-2

[jaco]

Buda that is a must have if it fits over the dome head perfectly.
I wonder if that is what it was designed for..Rivet dimpleing ??

Can you see the Stanley part number that should be stamped on it?
Also is there any other writing on it like size or patent number etc.

Thanks for taking time to photo it.

What ever became of Frank R. and Pap?

[buda]

Hello Jaco;; the Stanley part # is 1113 made in USA.
It fits on the rivet very good.
It is spring retracked.

[markdoane]

The Stanley tool #1113 was originally for punching starter holes in hinge butts. The beveled outer barrel is sized to fit in the counter-sunk holes in a door hinge. By tapping on the punger, the pointy tip makes a pilot hole for a wood screw. Look for it in the door hardware section of any hardware store.

Great application, Buda!