|
05-31-2011, 04:11 PM
|
#1
|
2 Rivet Member
1968 20' Globetrotter
fair oaks
, California
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 43
|
Rivet Hole Repair
In getting my AS ready for polishing, I removed the AIRSTREAM name plates on the front and rear. When drilling out one of the rivets I must not have had the drill lined up properly and I ended up with a larger hole (see pic). Unfortunately, it was at one of the corners and I am concerned that the nameplate will eventually pull up at this location.
My question: Is it possible to repair so that a rivet will go in securely at this spot or do I just live with the mistake and use lots of adhesive?
Any suggestions will be most appreciated.
|
|
|
05-31-2011, 04:47 PM
|
#2
|
4 Rivet Member
1977 25' Tradewind
Waskesiu Lake
, Saskatchewan
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 394
|
You could use a rivet with a larger diameter shank, but the same size head as the other rivets that hold the nameplate on (first choice...).
Another option is to put a dab of "JB Weld" behind the nameplate where the rivet hole is and then put the rivet through the hole and secure it (second choice). I suspect the JB Weld will seal & secure it OK. It's not like it bears any stresses really.
__________________
Every home needs a dog, and every dog needs a home.
1977 25' Tradewind (with two ... three... FOUR dogs)
2011 Ram 1500 Quad cab, 5.7 Hemi, tow pkg.
|
|
|
05-31-2011, 05:03 PM
|
#3
|
Rivet Master
1979 23' Safari
1954 29' Liner
Orange
, California
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,850
|
You could use an olympic rivet at all four corners. Properly finished they look almost like bucked rivets. Or if you have the inside skin off put a small piece of aluminum inside the bucked rivet.
Bill
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmcinfo
In getting my AS ready for polishing, I removed the AIRSTREAM name plates on the front and rear. When drilling out one of the rivets I must not have had the drill lined up properly and I ended up with a larger hole (see pic). Unfortunately, it was at one of the corners and I am concerned that the nameplate will eventually pull up at this location.
My question: Is it possible to repair so that a rivet will go in securely at this spot or do I just live with the mistake and use lots of adhesive?
Any suggestions will be most appreciated.
|
__________________
Bill Kerfoot, WBCCI/VAC/CAC/El Camino Real Unit #5223
Just my personal opinion
1973 Dodge W200 PowerWagon, 1977 Lincoln Continental, 2014 Dodge Durango
1979 23' Safari, and 1954 29' Double Door Liner Orange, CA
https://billbethsblog.blogspot.com/
|
|
|
05-31-2011, 05:09 PM
|
#4
|
Rivet Master
1960 33' Custom
Athens
, Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,373
|
Easy fix, use a washer behind the rivet.
__________________
1960 Sovereign 33' Pacific Railroad Custom
|
|
|
05-31-2011, 05:38 PM
|
#5
|
Site Team
1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa
, ON
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 11,219
|
A SS or AL washer, I guess...
|
|
|
05-31-2011, 05:53 PM
|
#6
|
Site Team
2002 25' Safari
Dewey
, Arizona
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 15,616
|
Since a name plate will cover this hole in the skin, just use an olympic rivet. The legs of the rivet are more then wide enough when extended to get a good grip.
__________________
Richard
Wally Byam Airstream Club 7513
|
|
|
06-01-2011, 02:46 PM
|
#7
|
2 Rivet Member
1968 20' Globetrotter
fair oaks
, California
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 43
|
In the future, what can I do to prevent making the same mistake?
|
|
|
06-01-2011, 02:57 PM
|
#8
|
Rivet Master
1979 23' Safari
1954 29' Liner
Orange
, California
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,850
|
Not to be a smart aleck, but be careful.
Bill
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmcinfo
In the future, what can I do to prevent making the same mistake?
|
__________________
Bill Kerfoot, WBCCI/VAC/CAC/El Camino Real Unit #5223
Just my personal opinion
1973 Dodge W200 PowerWagon, 1977 Lincoln Continental, 2014 Dodge Durango
1979 23' Safari, and 1954 29' Double Door Liner Orange, CA
https://billbethsblog.blogspot.com/
|
|
|
06-01-2011, 03:09 PM
|
#9
|
2 Rivet Member
1960 24' Tradewind
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 39
|
avoiding rivet drilling mistakes
an experienced aircraft worker gave me some advice--
1. use a machinists punch to mark the center of the rivet dome; remove paint or other materials first. get this as accurate as possible so the drill bit doesn't wander.
2. use a small drill say 3/32 or 1/16" to drill through the dome, but hardly into the shank.
3. switch to a 1/8" drill to widen the hole, but stop before going past the head. Don't drill into the shank at all. This will eliminate damage to the sheet metal parts
4. insert a 1/8" punch or old 1/8" drill( the smooth part where the drill chuck grabs it). rock the punch/bit back and forth until the head of the rivet breaks off.
5. punch out the shank.
This would be best practice for a high strength repair. For cosmetic rivets I skip the 3/32 drill step. It takes practice and judgment to get the 1/8" hole the right depth. If the hole isn't centered the head won't break off clean and a small chisel must be used to knock the rest off. That will probably damage the sheet metal..
Vintage Trailer sells 5/32 shank 1/8 head rivets.. clean up the holes with a #20 drill bit which will alleviate the damage.
|
|
|
06-01-2011, 08:04 PM
|
#10
|
Site Team
1963 26' Overlander
Hollis
, New Hampshire
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,647
|
If the interior skin is out, I've had good luck taking a sharp chisel, knocking off the stem in the back and popping the rivet head out with a nail set.
__________________
Shelly : TAC NH-6 | AIR 41359
Visit my blog!
Parts needed : Braund Antenna front tube fold down model!
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|