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Old 05-21-2008, 05:39 PM   #15
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Are you talking the interior skin or the exterior skin? Is your door a cast aluminum frame? If the door is cast then you won't have room to put washers under the bucktails.
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Old 05-21-2008, 07:29 PM   #16
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now you have an expert helping, go Aerowood. I am so grateful for all the help you gave me.....
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Old 05-22-2008, 08:58 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood
Are you talking the interior skin or the exterior skin? Is your door a cast aluminum frame? If the door is cast then you won't have room to put washers under the bucktails.
On the outside top of the door, there is a drip rail that is screwed into the door casing. The rivets under this drip rail have pulled loose from the outside skin of the body. The door itself has a inner and outer skin. After reading threads about the bodies flexing due to bad axles, I am assuming the casing of the door pulled loose from the body flexing. It looks like if I removed some of the rivets on the inner skin, I might be able to get some washers on the inside of the outer skin. If I push on the outer skin were it has pulled away from the door, it doesn't seem to be anything (frame) behind the outer skin. I am pretty handy, but working with aluminun is new to me. Maybe with new axles it would not be nessary anyway. I just hate to fix this twice if I can help it. I hope this helps, if not I will take some pictures.
Bill
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Old 05-23-2008, 07:53 AM   #18
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Pictures would help. What type of rivets do you plan to use?
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Old 05-23-2008, 08:45 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood
Pictures would help. What type of rivets do you plan to use?
Hi Aerowood, Thanks for putting up with me. I have throughly enjoyed your posts and found them very helpful. I have done construction work and car and truck repair, but I am sure I am using the wrong terminology. I most likely don't spell well either. I took some pictures tonight after work, but I forgot to set the camara to make them small enough to post. I will give it another shot in the morning.
Thanks again, Bill
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Old 05-24-2008, 09:22 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood
Pictures would help. What type of rivets do you plan to use?



OK Aerowood, Let's try this again. Here is were the door casing/frame is pulled away from the outer skin.




The seperation continues down to the bottom of the drip rail on each side of the door.






This is a picture of the frame.




I also have five of the six rivets off to the upper left side of the door pulled loose.




The walls on either curbside end of the kitchen are also pulled loose.




When I joined the forum, I was asked to show some pictures. Andy, from Inland RV suggested that the axles on our trailor were bad. I wish I would have joined the forum sooner; putting new bearings and seals on worn out axles was a waste. I read the threads on worn out axles and the damage that they could cause. I would read a while, take a look and there it was.

If I understand correctly, I was going to use 5/32 Olympic rivets to reattach the door to the outer skin and standard aluminum pop rivets on the interior walls. Do you think the Olympic rivets will hold the door tight to the outer skin without washers on the back side? Thanks for yor help.
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Old 05-24-2008, 11:55 AM   #21
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...Excella, it's really hard to find anybody who knows anything about airstreams in my latitudes so finding help here is not an option, I have looked. I will go and find the specifics about removing rivets.

...
Do you have a local airport? Go there and see if there are any airplane kit builders, or just plain hackers who take care of their own machines. They will know a lot about aluminum and rivets. That will get you started. They will also know sources for tools, rivets, and sealing goop.

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Old 05-24-2008, 12:52 PM   #22
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really, really, really try and do this renovation with the shell on. it can be done, there's several threads here on the subject. i took my shell off and it's one of many reasons that the project has taken so long.
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Old 05-24-2008, 05:11 PM   #23
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I think your problem is lower down. I think the outriggers or cross member under the door have stopped doing their job. I suggest you cut a hole or drop part of the belly so you can see in there. I would be willing to bet you a buck you will find the cause of this there, not in your axles. If you do not find a broken weld on one of the cross members or the outriggers, I will send you a buck in the mail. If I am right, you just say thanks...
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Old 05-24-2008, 06:18 PM   #24
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You've differently got an anomaly somewhere, and some exploratory surgery is going to be in order to find it. It could be outriggers as stated before, drop a portion of belly pan and have a good look. could be vibration from unbalanced tires/running gear/no spring left in torsion axles. Could be that someone had the drip rail off and drilled the heads of the rivets off and never replaced all of them back in. I originally though you were talking about the door itself. You are just going to have to open things up abit and peek and poke around.
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Old 05-24-2008, 06:44 PM   #25
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The swing arms from the axle are angled up about 15 to 20 degrees. If you jump up and down on the bumper it does not have a lot of travel. I will open things up and take a look. I will let you know. Thank you all for your help and suggestions.

I had done alot of work to try to take her out this weekend. You know what they say the best laid plans of mice and men......
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Old 05-24-2008, 09:16 PM   #26
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Your axles should be pointing down around 22.5 degrees with little to no load. Someone correct me if this angle is incorrect, but they should be down.
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Old 05-25-2008, 02:50 AM   #27
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I think it is 27 new, an axle dealer will correct us....
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Old 05-25-2008, 11:19 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood
Your axles should be pointing down around 22.5 degrees with little to no load. Someone correct me if this angle is incorrect, but they should be down.
Down 22.5 degrees no load (vintage), "perceptably down" under full load--5-8 degrees. Anything perceptably "up" needs replacing.

Zep
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