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Old 06-04-2012, 04:47 PM   #1
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replace olympic with Buck rivets???

it looks like at some point in its life mechazilla had one of the long side panels replaced from the outside. it was put over the old outer skin (parts of the old outer skin are cut away. now that i have all the inner skins out should I replace the olympic rivets with buck rivets or use large quantities of vulcum to seal the olympic rivets from the inside. you can see in the photos they have been leaking.

Also why did Airstream only seal some of the inner seams?
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Old 06-04-2012, 05:06 PM   #2
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Buck Rivets

I would replace with Buck if I had the access, tools and rivets.
Why not?

Not sure about the sealant,

Good luck,

TIMK
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Old 06-04-2012, 06:03 PM   #3
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Dunno about the sealant but I would much rather have a buck rivet than a Oly any day.

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Old 06-04-2012, 06:23 PM   #4
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Since you already have the inner skins off, I would go back and remove the old skin and buck the replcement skin in place. You most likely will not ever have this opportunity to "do it right" again. How often are you going to be restoring your trailer - once every 35-40 years at most?!

However, overlaying a new skin over the old damaged one is "standard practice" for most Airstream dealership repairs on dammaged or punctured panels...

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Old 06-04-2012, 06:30 PM   #5
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Since you already have the inner skins off, I would go back and remove the old skin and buck the replcement skin in place. You most likely will not ever have this opportunity to "do it right" again. How often are you going to be restoring your trailer - once every 35-40 years at most?!

However, overlaying a new skin over the old damaged one is "standard practice" for most Airstream dealership repairs on dammaged or punctured panels...

Shari
Funny you mention that 35 year mark...

I FINALLY have gotten around to reworking the rear on my 1975, that makes it 37 years since it left the factory. I plan to make a 50 year repair on it.

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Old 06-04-2012, 06:51 PM   #6
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There is no sealant on that joint because the panel was replaced from the outside.

Perry
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Old 06-04-2012, 07:07 PM   #7
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yea I realize these repair joints would not have sealant but there are other factory seams that do not have any either.
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Old 06-05-2012, 09:38 AM   #8
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Is there any good way to get the old white caulk off? Its surprisingly still soft and gooey.
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:22 PM   #9
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Is there any good way to get the old white caulk off? Its surprisingly still soft and gooey.
Mineral spirits or paint thinner should thin it out. IIRC it is butyl which remains tacky for life as long as it isn't exposed to sunlight.

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Old 06-06-2012, 07:20 AM   #10
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so should they be re sealed with Butyl or with Vulkum?
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Old 06-06-2012, 07:43 AM   #11
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I believe most use this Trempro-626 which is supposed to have more working time than the 635. The white crap that AS uses cracks and has no elasticity. This stuff won't crack.

Tremco TremPro 626

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Old 06-06-2012, 09:25 AM   #12
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Replacing an Olympic rivet, with a buck rivet is easy enough, BUT remember that an Olympic rivet is 5/32 of an inch in diameter and the buck rivets that match are 1/8 inch in diameter.

That in itself, will weaken the attachment.

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Old 06-06-2012, 10:06 AM   #13
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Can he go to larger diameter bucked rivets?

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Old 06-06-2012, 10:17 AM   #14
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Removing Sealant, installing rivets

There are a couple ways to remove old sealant. You can try mineral spirits and see if it cuts into it. If not I use stripper or MEK will work.
VTS make a silicone remover that works pretty well, it's a little different, but works good on old silicone. Also 3M makes a SR RADIAL BRISTLE DISC, try 4 discs of 3" in size on a 90deg. die grinder and it will take old silicone off.
Some have even used gasoline (Although I've never tried that and must make the disclaimer that I personally wouldn't do it), but some say it works.

Personally have never used Vulkem for the install(since been discontinued)
Howerver I do have some Trempro 625, although it sounds like some are
using Trempro 626.... different cure time.

Don't use butyl for panels, use the Trempro.

If the rivet hole is 1/8" diameter, then you can drill the hole out to 5/32" by using a #21 drill bit, and then installing AN470AD rivets
SOLID ALUMINUM RIVETS - UNIVERSAL HEAD - AN470 from Aircraft Spruce

After the hole is drilled, deburr with a 6fluted 100deg. counter sink.
http://www.browntool.com/Default.asp...&productid=797

Typical sizes for rivets (5/32" buck) are 470AD-5-4 to 470AD5-6 for exterior, but I have size 8 just in case and cut them down. No more than 1.5 diameter sticking out the back. AD have a greater sheer strength and should be used for support. (A) Rivets are soft, so only use on something not structural.

Hope this helps,

TIMK
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