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Old 09-22-2012, 02:42 PM   #1
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Removing Rivets - How To

What is the best way to remove interior (or even exterior for that matter) rivets? I'm just starting on mine and it seems the middle cabinet between the twin beds in back is holding on tight with rivets.
Thanks
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Old 09-22-2012, 03:37 PM   #2
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What is the best way to remove interior (or even exterior for that matter) rivets? I'm just starting on mine and it seems the middle cabinet between the twin beds in back is holding on tight with rivets.
Thanks
There are 3 sizes of drill bits that you will need, over the long haul.

# 30, # 21., and # 11

The 30 is for the interior and exterior buckrivets, 1/8" diameter shank.

The 21 is for enlarging the holes when using Olympic rivets, 5/32" shank.

The 11 is used for 3/16" pop rivets that are in the underbelly.

The inside of your Airstream has many 1/8" pop rivets.

Using larger size drill bits, will reduce the holding ability of the new rivets.

Andy
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Old 09-22-2012, 05:08 PM   #3
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The first part of the answer is with a drill, drilling straight through the center but not too deep so you don't compromise whatever is on the other side. It is tempting to push too hard but you will just break your bit so just apply a steady, even pressure until you pop through and then pull back. Hope that helps!
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Old 09-22-2012, 05:09 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by girlscan2 View Post
What is the best way to remove interior (or even exterior for that matter) rivets? I'm just starting on mine and it seems the middle cabinet between the twin beds in back is holding on tight with rivets.
Thanks
Drill bits (#30 inside, and #20 outside) and a steady hand. You can get the push dimpler punches, and punch a dimple in the center of the rivets on the exterior, so the bit doesn't "walk".
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Old 09-23-2012, 08:16 AM   #5
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Thank you all so much. Every little bit of information is so helpful to me. You would think the basic rivet removal would be obvious. But I know as a nurse, you can never assume the patient (me in this case) knows anything about their illness (not that I am calling my trailer an illness but I'm hoping its the cure to ever-lasting great times
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Old 09-23-2012, 08:41 AM   #6
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A little pop-rivet 101 notes for you...

Use a very narrow punch and hammer to drive in the center mandrel into or past the clamped layers will always help keep the drill bit well-centered when removing rivets, especially the highly visible interior ones.

The center mandrel shaft, the part to pull for expanding the hidden part of the rivet when installing, pops (breaks) off just beneath the visible surface of the rivet... And lies there waiting for someone to remove it...

So, now, if* Joe Somewhen ever used repair rivets not pure aluminum/aluminum mandrel & shaft, the drill will inexorably deflect away from the steel mandrel and make a royal mess of the rivet & pieces clamped.

So even with the original all-aluminum rivets it's a good idea to clear the mandrel shaft back to allow the drill to self-center in the circular bore of the rivet for the easiest removal - making steely mandrels no problem when/if they are snuck into the mix.
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Old 09-23-2012, 02:33 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

There are 3 sizes of drill bits that you will need, over the long haul.

# 30, # 21., and # 11

The 30 is for the interior and exterior buckrivets, 1/8" diameter shank.

The 21 is for enlarging the holes when using Olympic rivets, 5/32" shank.

The 11 is used for 3/16" pop rivets that are in the underbelly.

The inside of your Airstream has many 1/8" pop rivets.

Using larger size drill bits, will reduce the holding ability of the new rivets.

Andy
Andy, thanks for the sizes of the drill bits to use!! We had heard about drilling the rivets out, but only knew of the #30 size. What is the difference between a buck rivet and a pop rivet?
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Old 09-23-2012, 02:58 PM   #8
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I use a stop block on the drill to make sure I do not punch through too far and drill the other skin behind the one I am working on.
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Old 09-23-2012, 03:24 PM   #9
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What to do when the pop rivet just spins...

You may run into a pop rivet that just spins in place making it impossible to drill it out. You will have to resort to plan "B" for rivet removal which is to chop the rivet off. That can easily be done with a wood chisel or my prefered tool for the job a so-called painters tool like the one on the right side in the attached photo. It is like a putty knife but has a thicker and stiffer blade. It is relatively sharp on the business end but can be filed a little sharper if you like. I have not needed to with my rivet removals.
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Old 09-23-2012, 04:37 PM   #10
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Andy, thanks for the sizes of the drill bits to use!! We had heard about drilling the rivets out, but only knew of the #30 size. What is the difference between a buck rivet and a pop rivet?
A "pop" rivet can be installed by one person. It also has a "pin" in the middle of a hollow rivet. It is "not" self sealing, therefore they will leak water.

A "buck" rivet is usally installed by two people. One person operates a pulsing air hammer that has a tool in the end of the hammer, a rivet set, that matches the rivet head.

The second person, is on the back side holding a steel sort of flat bar, called a bucking bar, against the back side of the buck rivet, the shank if you wish.

The second person is necessary in larger fabrication, since one persons arms cannot reach the inside as well as the outside.

Basically, as the pulsing air hammer vibrates the rivet, the backside of the rivet (shank), is compressed and expanded by the bucking bar.

The buck rivet method of construction is superior to using pop rivets, in that they fill the holes in the metal, which are never round, but almost round.

All aircraft construction uses the buck rivet method, as well as Airstream.

They can also leak water, but if installed properly, a leak would be most unlikely.

Also a buck rivet is stronger than the same size pop rivet.

Andy
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:06 AM   #11
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I just bought some of these short double ended bits. These won't pentrate as far to reduce the likelyhood of going through the inside and outside skins. I have also cut the double ended ones in half with a dremmel wheel to make a real short bit for things like drilling out rivets in holding tanks pans etc. You will need to scroll down to get to the double ended sheet metal bits.

McMaster-Carr

The 3163A56 the #30 double ended bit.

Perry
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Old 09-24-2012, 03:56 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114
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McMaster-Carr

The 3163A56 the #30 double ended bit.

Perry
love these drill bits. I have a mcmaster Carr list at the office. These are getting added to the next order. Thanks for the thread!
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Old 07-21-2013, 06:02 PM   #13
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One more thing to think about when removing a cabinet is sometimes there is a rivet hiding under a corner of the cabinet next to the one that you taking out. I had to bend a couple corners to get at all the rivets on mine.
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