Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 02-17-2009, 10:15 AM   #1
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 99
Images: 1
removing filiform

I have read most of the threads on filiform, but can't find the best way to remove filiform, before applying ACF 50. I was considering some Dremel tool attachment with a fine brush or one of those pen tools that body shops use. Any suggestions ?


searcher is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2010, 11:55 AM   #2
Rivet Master
JFScheck's Avatar
Vintage Kin Owner
Rockville , Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,463
Images: 32
Remove the crystals and gray discoloration with fine wet/dry sandpaper dipped in mineral spirits. Don't try to polish the aluminum; simply rub it until it's bright again.

Wipe down the metal with a clean rag and some mineral spirits to remove grime and debris left from the sandpaper.

Allow the aluminum to dry.

Apply a chromate primer and allow it to dry completely (ONLY if you are going to paint the aluminum)...
Apply a protective clear coat...

John "JFScheck" Scheck
2014 Itasca Solei 34T in Red Maple
Freightliner XCS Chassis with Cummins 6.7 ISB & Allison MH Transmission
**I Love U.S.A.**
JFScheck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2010, 12:41 PM   #3
Rivet Master
Foiled Again's Avatar

2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
Vintage Kin Owner
Virginia Beach , Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,678
Originally Posted by searcher View Post
I have read most of the threads on filiform, but can't find the best way to remove filiform, before applying ACF 50. I was considering some Dremel tool attachment with a fine brush or one of those pen tools that body shops use. Any suggestions ?

I'm trying the dremel tool trick this weekend. I'll let you know how it works. I've got a spot or two on the back of my propane tank cover - it's the least visible spot - good for honing the technique. Using sandpaper as JFScheck suggested could work, but I've got lots of tiny squiggles. I think it would be easier to just hit the bad spots with the Dremel tool. I'm going to use blue painter's tape to shield the good spots so that I don't create a worse mess than I have already.

I actually salvaged a pair of the CCD tail light surrounds when I replaced mine which were severely filoformed... Those suckers are going to get stripped and clearcoated and put back on. (Maybe it will be like Church shoes and School shoes - I'll put on the pretty pair when I'm headed to a rally!)

If this doesn't make a near invisible repair, I'm going to get the Classic belly band - but use reflective tape as the insert.

Today is a gift, that's why they call it the present.
Foiled Again is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2010, 01:17 PM   #4
. , .
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
PUT THE DREMEL down folks...

then think this through better....


the PROCESS for dealing with surface corrosion is slightly different based on the FINISH applied...

plasti-cote VERSUS clearcoat.

very different products and these distinctions are covered elsewhere...

are u SURE whats on your trailer?

next issue is WHAT ez that stuff U see, got any pix? post'em...

all white crud isn't Filo' or even corrosion...

so be SORTA sure what you are dealing with first and use the LEAST abrasive LEAST mechanical tool first...

and that's not tool spinning at 3-10,000 rpms with an abrasive attachment.

an often posted "factory/service center" approach posted for dealing with REAL FILO' or ALCOA clear coat is...

1. scrape OFF the raised finish with a soft plastic scraper (credit card like material)
2. clean any residual whitish powder with water/soap and a light solvent...
3. apply clear nail polish (or clear touch up auto paint) to the area...

for ABRADING/smoooooothing the exposed surface prior to the "touch up" use a common PENCIL eraser.

slightly MORE aggressive is an automotive touch up tool (with fiberglass filaments) used to SPOT abrade in tiny places...

a link to that tool as been posted elsewhere...

another MILD abrasive approach is to "hole punch" some 1000 or 2000 wet/dry paper and glue those tiny circles to the PENCIL eraser...

now u have a TINY abrasion tool, hand powered!

99% of the time for 99% of the people the eraser is PLENTY of abrasion and easy to use.

touch ups?

the factory NOW sells/offers a clearcoat/touch up fiber tipped PEN for applying STUFF over nicks...

it may or may NOT be better than nail polish, generic clearcoat pens or other hardened acrylic coatings...

i do NOT apply any paint/clearcoat or other permanent coating over the removed/cleaned spots...

it LOOKz fUGLY and will just peel again (unless u are willing to wet sand the DRY touchups)

instead just apply a good wax or POLY SEALANT over these posts (i have done this for years without PROBLEMS) ....

TRUE FILO' is UNDER clearcoat, so once the coating is REMOVED and cleaned...

FILO' ain't happening in that spot again, even if the metal is BARE...

there are other useful thread on these issues (also read the links inside) here....

including some info DIRECTLY from alcoa...

but that advice does NOT apply to the 3-4 versions/formulas of PLASTI-K/COTE used in prior years...

and it all starts with KNOWing what's on yer traylor and what the crud ez...

99/2000 is REPORTED to be the transition time,

but given the variability in a/s production, spillover, official YEAR designations and so on...

be sure about what's on the skin first!

almost anyone trying a POWER TOOL (even a tiny rotary thing) is going to OVER correct the problem...

thus creating MORE problems.

so go gently and with the LEAST abrasive approach first.

OR take the quick, simple, easy, cute and totally PERSONALIZED approach...

and apply fake bullet holes, flags, pirate heads, harley decals or other vinyl graphics over those spots!

all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.

we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
2airishuman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2010, 03:10 PM   #5
3 Rivet Member
WK57ABF's Avatar
2007 25' Classic
kendal , cumbria, UK
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 213
Images: 4
searcher : we've used the method described in post 4. We just have this one area of body corrosion. Removed blistering and oxidation with a sharpened plastic scraper, rubbed in Turtle wax paste with finger. No further creeping in 12 months.

Trailer is polished twice a year with Turtle wax paste.

John in the UK
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	001%20(640x480).jpg
Views:	173
Size:	62.5 KB
ID:	99272  
WK57ABF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2010, 10:26 AM   #6
New Member
2006 25' Safari FB SE
reno , Nevada
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 1
powder coating

I had this corrosion on the rear tail light housings. After rubbing, dremeling with a soft cloth and fine abrasive (concur that this is a bad idea), and generally wasting a few days, I sent them to the local powder coat shop. Had them sand blasted and finished in a satin aluminum color.

At $25 per housing, I thought the price was fair. Only works if you have parts that are removable. The corrosion did pit the aluminum slightly so the finish is not perfect, but far better than it was.

The attached picture shows the final look. This section of the housing had 4-5 bad "growths" on it.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	pchousings.JPG
Views:	134
Size:	29.6 KB
ID:	105697  

sierrajohn is offline   Reply With Quote

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Filiform - only newer trailers or older too? Soyboy Ribs, Skins & Rivets 11 10-05-2008 10:36 AM
Nuclear Reactor Corrosion versus Airstream Filiform Ray Eklund Ribs, Skins & Rivets 0 06-08-2008 12:56 PM
Filiform Corrosion? Harper Ribs, Skins & Rivets 7 06-08-2008 10:45 AM
Filiform corrosion Brad Hunt Ribs, Skins & Rivets 4 11-19-2007 12:17 PM
removing floor without removing shell nevisstudio Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 11 07-24-2005 10:47 PM

Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Our Communities

Our communities encompass many different hobbies and interests, but each one is built on friendly, intelligent membership.

» More about our Communities

Automotive Communities

Our Automotive communities encompass many different makes and models. From U.S. domestics to European Saloons.

» More about our Automotive Communities

Marine Communities

Our Marine websites focus on Cruising and Sailing Vessels, including forums and the largest cruising Wiki project on the web today.

» More about our Marine Communities

Copyright 2002-2015 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:49 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.