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Old 06-04-2012, 04:32 PM   #1
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Removing exterior corner panel

I'm now at the point where I need to remove the lower curbside exterior corner panel..... see pic with 3 Cleco's holding Verticle C-Channel.
All rivets have been removed.

Question, what are ya'll using to remove the old panel?
The panel was previously replaced, but was then dented after installation by PO, and then some olympics were leaking. So there is brand new sealant holding it together, and man is it strong.

Will a putty knife rounded at the edges help? A razor blade didn't even dig into it.
How about applying Stripper or something in the gap?
Unfortunately the gap is "UP", so applying sealant up will be difficult.

Any thoughts?
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Old 06-04-2012, 06:04 PM   #2
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Heat and a sharp putty knife would be my first choice unless you can determine what the sealant was and use an appropriate solvent.

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Old 06-04-2012, 06:56 PM   #3
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I have used the gel paint stripper on stuff like that. Try Gumout carb cleaner first and it that don't work go with the paint stripper. The stuff I have is Klean Kutter or something like that and it is not the orange flavored stuff that does not work. A wood chisel works well but BE CAREFUL.

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Old 06-04-2012, 10:53 PM   #4
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Trempro 625

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Originally Posted by wahoonc View Post
Heat and a sharp putty knife would be my first choice unless you can determine what the sealant was and use an appropriate solvent.

Aaron
It was Trempro 625, old tube is still in trailer. I seriously think they were so pissed that the panel was dented after install that they sold me the trailer.

The other good thing is that they used olympics with o-rings, so these have been removed.
They actually did a great job, too bad it was dented. I'll be bucking new rivets.

I'm going to try some Kleen Strip aircraft paint remover, brush it up in the crack. Leave it for a minute and see if I can cut through with a putty knife.

I'll try heating the knife also, that's a good idea.

I'll tell you, most people are removing OLD vulkem, which is strong, but NEW trempro is tough stuff.

Thanks in advance,
TIMK
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:55 PM   #5
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Stripper

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Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
I have used the gel paint stripper on stuff like that. Try Gumout carb cleaner first and it that don't work go with the paint stripper. The stuff I have is Klean Kutter or something like that and it is not the orange flavored stuff that does not work. A wood chisel works well but BE CAREFUL.

Perry
Yeah, I don't want to bend the top sheet, so I would have to be careful with a wood chisel.

Carb cleaner huh? Didn't think of that.

I was thinking Kleen Strip Aircraft paint remover... or MEK.
I think Kip said to round the edges of a putty knife. And maybe some heat also.

Thanks in advance,
TIMK
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Old 06-04-2012, 11:14 PM   #6
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When you drive the new rivets, I'd use some TremPro 635 or some similar sealant. I've been doing that on a bunch of rivets, and it really seals the rivets well (see http://www.airforums.com/forums/f381...ml#post1150143).

I've removed a bunch of Olympics that leak. I'm not very impressed with Olympic rivets overall, but some of the problems were likely improper installation. However, they do seem to leak between the mandrel and the body of the rivet.

Be sure and tell us how you got the sheet metal apart at the end of the day.

Best of luck to you on this project!!!
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Old 06-04-2012, 11:46 PM   #7
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In replacing the rear panel on my Argosy , I drilled out the existing rivets and finished removing the panel with the oscillating tool with a scraper blade on it. I did go through a couple of blades but it really worked out well . Hope this helps.
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Old 06-05-2012, 07:13 AM   #8
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I have one of those Dremel Bone Saw's. I never thought of using it as putty remover but I guess it will work. It has a blade like you say.

Perry
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Old 07-12-2012, 10:08 AM   #9
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TIMK,
Did you get the panels seperated? Are you making progress on your trailer?

Steve
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Old 07-12-2012, 05:45 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Argosy Heir
In replacing the rear panel on my Argosy , I drilled out the existing rivets and finished removing the panel with the oscillating tool with a scraper blade on it. I did go through a couple of blades but it really worked out well . Hope this helps.
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What are you using for a replacement panel? New, used, doner trailer or manufg. Your own? Im interested because ive yet to tackle mine because I cant locate an affordable panel.
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:23 PM   #11
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What I saw at the factory for removing a panel was they cut the old panel about 2" in from the seam leaving a strip that was much easier to peel away from the caulking.
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Old 07-13-2012, 12:48 AM   #12
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What are you using for a replacement panel? New, used, doner trailer or manufg. Your own? Im interested because ive yet to tackle mine because I cant locate an affordable panel.
Coming along well. The rear center section needed to be replaces as the corrosion between the aluminum panel and the steel frame support caused holes at every rivet at the bottom. Being an Argosy , I removed the tail light panel and cut my own seam below the rear window that would be hidden under the panel at a later date. I used flat sheet aluminum (.050 I think).

The offending piece cam out pretty much intact and I laid it over the new sheet and sprayed paint in the rivet holes I drilled out to mark their locations.
Liberal amounts of Vulkem between the panels and attatched with Olympic rivets. You can kind of see what I did in the first picture. In the second you can see the seam is covered by the panel. Hope this helps.
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Old 07-13-2012, 06:23 PM   #13
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Thank you, it does. Mine has a 6” high rectangular cutout fom the edge of the streetside corner panel, travelling all the way across the back end to the curbside corner. The PO froze a water line and rather than repair it from the inside he hacked his way into the exterior using a reciprocating saw. Ive been on the hunt for a used streetside corner panel because I cant afford the new ones. I might try the patch route like you did now that I see that it can be done. My main concern is that the cut on mine is near the bottom of the panels and ill have to rivet to the c channel, with the radius that may prove impossible?
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Old 07-15-2012, 09:58 PM   #14
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Buck Rivets

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Bryant View Post
When you drive the new rivets, I'd use some TremPro 635 or some similar sealant. I've been doing that on a bunch of rivets, and it really seals the rivets well (see http://www.airforums.com/forums/f381...ml#post1150143).

I've removed a bunch of Olympics that leak. I'm not very impressed with Olympic rivets overall, but some of the problems were likely improper installation. However, they do seem to leak between the mandrel and the body of the rivet.

Be sure and tell us how you got the sheet metal apart at the end of the day.

Best of luck to you on this project!!!
Thanks everyone for being patient, I have been out on knee surgery, after 2 weeks in Disneyland and traveling, so I've been out if it for a while.

Steve, Yes, definitely buck rivets.... I would only use Olympics where i can 1) Access every year fairly easy to add sealant, and 2) don't have access to inside panel to buck.

Yes, I have been making a little progress. I have ordered, and have in my shop a 4'x12' x .032 2024T3 aluminum for the new corner. I have also aquired some sheet metal tools (nibbler, shears and the like)

Shackman, I will try and remove in one piece, so I can duplicate as a template... but that could be a probable solution if I get into any trouble.

Phrunes, I think I paid just under $200 for a 4x12' roll of aluminum (request it to be rolled). As long as the panel does not have any wierd bends/breaks then just rapping it might not be a tough as you think.
It will require some tools/knowledge/help if you buck the rivets. Keep looking, you'll find your solution on Airforums... it just takes ALOT of reading. Don't skimp either.. do it right, even if it takes a little longer and costs a little more, and is a little more of a hassle, and is frustrating, and you can't find any help, and.... all the other reasons why we make excuses for our quick fixes.... Ok, I'm done.
Good luck


I'll send updateds as I progess in the next couple of weeks, now I'm stuck on the couch with a swollen knee

Thanks in advance,

TIMK
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