Rear curved panels 1960's through 1970's

[Bauxter]

Does anyone have a quick lookup guide that shows what panels are interchangeable across years? For instance, if I have a 72 Sovereign with damaged rear curved panels, could I use the panels from a 68 to replace them?
As I search for a new old trailer to buy, I am seeing many out there with panel damage, and if I buy one of those damaged trailers, I would prefer to use an old panel to replace my damaged pieces, if feasible. I just want to make sure that what I buy, will fit.

[azflycaster]

Originally Posted by Bauxter

Does anyone have a quick lookup guide that shows what panels are interchangeable across years? For instance, if I have a 72 Sovereign with damaged rear curved panels, could I use the panels from a 68 to replace them?
As I search for a new old trailer to buy, I am seeing many out there with panel damage, and if I buy one of those damaged trailers, I would prefer to use an old panel to replace my damaged pieces, if feasible. I just want to make sure that what I buy, will fit.

68 to 72 will not work. There was a major design change in 1969 which lasted till around 82. Check out this site to see all the different panels:
http://odmrv.com/catalog/index.php?m...ex&cPath=98_99

[Lumatic]

Inland RV in California has the information along with on line drawings of the panels which in the AS jargon are called "segments"

[Bauxter]

OK, thanks for the info
Out of doors mart and inland both show 1969 through 1982 as compatible.




Now if I could only find a good 70's shell..


Happy travels
mike

[Lumatic]

New segments are not cheap. But it is also a lot of work to remove old segments from another trailer.

[Belegedhel]

Another option is to remove the damaged segment, and if it isn't too wrecked, you may be able to work the damage out with an English wheel.

New segments that will fit the post-1969 models are available, but they are not necessarily the same alloy that was used when the 70's vintage trailer was manufactured, so you run the risk of the patina not matching the original, and the ding resistance not being the same as well.

Even if you find a donor trailer of a compatible year you could have a mismatch in the alloy (as they transitioned through about three different alloys during the 70's), and you will certainly have existing holes in your donor segment that won't match the needed holes, so you will easily double the number of rivet holes in the donor segment, resulting in possible weakness of the joint, poor grabbing of the rivets (where holes overlap, but are not identically positioned), etc.

There are a couple of threads that have an attachment that shows the official change in alloy year to year. Try seraching for "history of aluminum".

good luck!

[nuttinbutxs]

I just have to say something here - I read this forum daily and am just dumbfounded on the technical expertise from some of you responders. For example, who would know that the alloy formulas changed three times during the '70's on the aluminum segments. Being a hands on type, you amaze me with your knowledge. This forum makes for some great reading. Just purchased a Proven Industries lock after reading another post. GOD I LOVE THIS PLACE !!!

[Bauxter]

Back in 2010, it was this forum that hooked me on Airstream trailers.
The spectrum of scoundrels to mad scientists has provided inspiration as well as moments where you just want to shake your head. I am thankful for all of it.

[nuttinbutxs]

Amen Bauxter

[Aerowood]

To bad you don't live closer, I now have an English Wheel and would love to try my hand at straightening one out. When I replaced the lowers on my 71GT I did it with flat sheet, but it was not easy. Most people can't tell.

[AlinCal]

There is a local airstream refitter/repair guy near me who removes his customers hail and such damaged segments and takes them to a local metal working guru that works them on the english wheel to reinstall. Have not seen the results but knowing the metal guy I'm betting it's good.

[Belegedhel]

On the topic of English Wheels, I bought a Harbor Freight model a few years ago. I had a large shallow dent in one of my front lower corner segments and wanted to work it out. I read on these forums that many users were having good results using a hand-held "Dent Roller" to work the skin from the inside without removing it from the trailer. So I built my own dent roller handle, and then picked a die-wheel from my selection associated with the English wheel and gave it the old college try.

Well, my die wheel had too agressive of a radius, and I probably rolled it too firmly as well, and now instead of a concave dent, I had subltle convex ridges. No worries, I thought, I'll just remove the segment and run it across the English wheel and flatten it out. Well, I got too agressive again, got the deformities flattened out, but stretched the entire section a bit too much, and now it took on a bulbous appearance.

So I finally ended up buying a new segment, which not only cost a lot, but shipping was ridiculous. Once installed, the alloy is obviously different, and that segment shows every rock ding, where as the original segment on the other side seems impervious to dings.

Takeaway--don't get too agressive, whether you are using a dent roller, English wheel, or rubber mallet and a sand bag. I did have good luck straightening out my banana wraps with the English wheel and mallet and sandbags. I just shouldn't have tried learning to use the Wheel on a formed segment as my first exercise...

Another word of advice: When I was searching for my trailer, I passed up many trailers that had a dent in them because I insisted to myself that I was not going to buy all the tools to do sheet metal work, or learn all the required skills. I ended up with a dented trailer anyway (and bought a lot of tools), but had I bought the first trailer I looked at, I would have been 2 years ahead in my rebuild.

The history of Aluminum is attached. This document originated from Airstream, though I think there is also a listing that was composed by some forums members that largely matches this one.

Good luck!

[sgschwend]

Depending on the alloy the aluminum will need to be annealed in order to be able to work it with minimum pressure. The lower the pressure the better the job, the more the material will stay the same size.


I prefer to move the metal back down into the proper curve before I move any metal that is press in. I also found that it is a lot easier with a helper to hold the other end of the panel.



I did meet an airplane metal repair guy he was amazing in his ability to remove dents with an English wheel. I would think that looking for that type of shop would be very helpful for finding someone to repair panels.

[vintageracer]

I have used my "Paintless Dent" guy to repair dents/dings in Airstream trailers.

Depending upon the damage the results have been SPECTACULAR "IF" it is the type of damage he feels comfortable attempting to fix and can get to the repair area as needed.