Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 08-26-2005, 09:27 PM   #15
Rivet Master
 
Pahaska's Avatar
 
2014 Interstate Ext. Coach
Hays County , Texas
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 5,819
Images: 3
Mea culpa

I stand corrected. I was confusing the term "end cap" with "end shell". I should have used the latter term.

However, as you say, the lower corner of the end shell as well as the babana wrap are both compound.
__________________

__________________
John W. Irwin
2014.5 Touring Coach, "Sabre-Dog IV"
WBCCI #9632
Pahaska is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2005, 09:33 PM   #16
Rivet Master
 
RichardT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 925
Slade, Not to worry the lower corner piece you describe is just a flat piece of aluminum.
It is Not a compound curve.
__________________

__________________
RichardT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2005, 10:20 PM   #17
Rivet Master
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,482
Images: 19
If I understand the piece in question, it was not a compound curve in '78. It is now, and has been since, oh '82 or so.

If it is a simple curve, then a flat sheet can be riveted in place. There are posts in the archives concerning the correct guage of the exterior aluminum, but I do wonder if the corner sections are of a heavier guage. Anyone know?

Mark
__________________
'85 Sovereign, 25'
j54mark is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-27-2005, 08:20 AM   #18
Rivet Master
 
RichardT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 925
Here is the Zip Dee info
Toll Free phone (800)-338-BEST (2378)
In Illinois 847-437-0980
Fax 847-437-7064

Mailing Address: 96 Crossen Ave,
Elk Grove Village, Illinois 60007

Their web address is http://www.zipdeeinc.com/
__________________
RichardT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-27-2005, 10:06 AM   #19
4 Rivet Member
 
greg176's Avatar
 
1961 26' Overlander
Gabriola Island , British Columbia
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 474
Images: 1
When replacing the exterior panels I found that it is best to use .040" for the sides of the trailer and .032" for the front and back lower curved panels.The stiffness of the .040 makes it lie much flatter.The curve gives the rear panel strength so 032" worked fine.That was on a '61 and I don't know what they used on a '78.I understand the service manual has all info required for replacement.Would love to see what they have to say about it.Here is a pic of the rear panel sheet and one of the finished product on my '61.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	canada_day0171.jpg
Views:	100
Size:	79.8 KB
ID:	14256   Click image for larger version

Name:	Curbside0007.jpg
Views:	98
Size:	69.7 KB
ID:	14257  

__________________
greg176 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-27-2005, 11:21 AM   #20
2 Rivet Member
 
1978 31' Sovereign
Mesa , Arizona
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 37
Folks, I really appreciate all of the input so far, It is building my confidence. The only real chore that I have taken on this coach was to rebuild the entry door. All of the posts are very encouraging. Here are some images of the damage. It looks like I will have to bend a rib back into shape.

Thanks, Slade
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	as2.jpg
Views:	117
Size:	50.7 KB
ID:	14263   Click image for larger version

Name:	as3.jpg
Views:	98
Size:	65.6 KB
ID:	14264  

Click image for larger version

Name:	as1.jpg
Views:	88
Size:	72.1 KB
ID:	14265  
__________________
sladew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2006, 06:00 PM   #21
2 Rivet Member
 
1978 31' Sovereign
Mesa , Arizona
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 37
Well I finally got around to replacing the quarter panel. I pulled the panel off and it is indeed a compund curve, not flat. The panel cost about $450 new. I have the panel out now. I belive that I am going to cut the damaged (flat portion out) and rivet a new section in place on the panel and then put the quarter panel back on. It will not look as nice as a full sheet, but with all of the upgrades that i have been completing on this rig, I can't spare $450 currently. sw
__________________
sladew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2006, 12:55 AM   #22
2 Rivet Member
 
1978 31' Sovereign
Mesa , Arizona
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 37
The skin that I am replacing is .032
__________________
sladew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2006, 08:50 AM   #23
Rivet Master
 
munimula's Avatar

 
1993 34' Excella
1962 16' Bambi
New Haven , Connecticut
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 597
Images: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by sladew
The skin that I am replacing is .032
what rivets are you going to use?

--dave
__________________
munimula is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2006, 11:01 AM   #24
2 Rivet Member
 
1978 31' Sovereign
Mesa , Arizona
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 37
Dave,

I am going to utilize the Olymic bulb-tite rivets. Unfortunately I am either going to have to purchase a shaver or be really careful with a dremel tool to clean the head of the Rivet. I am not sure if they are 3/16 or 5/32. I ordered 100 of them from Inland RV for $20. I have a box full at the house I will measure the width and get back to you.

Slade
__________________
sladew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2006, 06:46 PM   #25
Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
 
Inland RV Center, In's Avatar
 
Corona , California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,499
Images: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by sladew
Dave,

I am going to utilize the Olymic bulb-tite rivets. Unfortunately I am either going to have to purchase a shaver or be really careful with a dremel tool to clean the head of the Rivet. I am not sure if they are 3/16 or 5/32. I ordered 100 of them from Inland RV for $20. I have a box full at the house I will measure the width and get back to you.

Slade

From 1969 to present, all the sections of metal on the front and rear end shells are compound curves, except the panels below the front and rear window.

You cannot replace the quarter panels with flat metal.

Put a straight edge from the top of the quarter panel to the bottom and you will quickly see that it is "not" straight.

Unless you remove the complete shell from a damaged trailer, you cannot remove a segment or quarter panel and use it again.

There are blind rivets that hold those panels in place on the first or last main bow as the case may be, which are underneath the side, window and roof sheets of aluminum.

You will need to get a replacement from a dealer. The cost is ball park $400.00 for a quarter panel. If you wish to polish the trailer, the new quarter panel will exactly match the shine as it originally did, even though a different aluminum is used.

Turn the loss into your insurance company.

A dealer that knows how to replace that panel, will charge about $1000.00 or more, to replace it, plus freight. Labor, depending on the shop, will be about 8 hours, turn key.

Andy
__________________
Inland RV Center, In is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2006, 11:08 PM   #26
Rivet Master
 
1960 24' Tradewind
santa barbara , California
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,352
Agree completely ,

Go with the insurance and fix it right ,sounds like a nightmare ,what with the
hidden rivits and what else you need to do to even get at them.Even at 1500
dollars ,it as good as new !!

Scott
__________________
scottanlily is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2006, 10:50 AM   #27
2 Rivet Member
 
1978 31' Sovereign
Mesa , Arizona
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 37
Smile

Unfortunately, It is a bit more complicated than that as the damage to the trailer was done last fall. Trust me I would have submitted this to my ins co. if it was still possible. To make a long story short I waited too long to file the claim and have since switched inusrance cos, so the damage is not insurable.

That said. The repairs are complete. I took the old quarter panel, cut out the damaged section along the front of it (about the first 12 inches of the quarter panel were completely cut out). I then Added in a piece of .032 flat sheet. Matched the rivet pattern on the rest of the rig. and replaced the quarter panel. I am not sure if I am missing something about blind rivets, etc., but the quarter panel slid right out and with a little coaxing and a few sheetmetal cuts to my fingers, slid right back in. It took me about 1 hour to remove the rivets, 2 hours to mend the quarter panel and patch in a new secion of rib that was bent and about 3 hours to slide the quarter panel back into place perma-bond and re-rivet. I still have to clean up the rivets. It definiitely does not look as good as a non patched quarter (there is a patch), but it actually came out looking better than I had expected. All of the rivets I took out were bucked, so the quarter panel has probably never been replaced. Interestingly enough, the panel had not been sealed, with a few exceptions of vulcum around the taillight housing. The other interesting thing is that the flat sheets on my rig seem to be .032 while the compund section that I repaired was slightly thinner, .025? Anyway I just need to figrue out how I am going to clean up all fo these rivets and put the trim and the awning back in place.

Long term I would like to replace the panel with one that has not been mended but I am already way over budget on this trailer with all of the other projects that I am currently doing (new furniture, floor coverings, tank relocations to name a few) and had to make a concession on the quarter panel. Right now $450 is too much to spend when I can fix it for $20 and $1000-$2500 is not even in the cards unless I want to end up in divorce court.

sw
__________________
sladew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2006, 11:03 AM   #28
Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
 
Inland RV Center, In's Avatar
 
Corona , California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,499
Images: 1
You still can submit a claim to the "old" insurance company.

Thery may squawk, but legally, they must honor your claim.

If they refuse, you can take them to small cliams court and win, hands down.

But you must be prepared with an estimate from a Certified Airstream dealer.

What you did is ok, but it reduces the value of your Airstream far more than you may realize.

A repair, that is spliced in, suggests improper repairs to a buyer, who will assume that other parts of the trailer have been likewise repaired in the same fashion, namely, scabbing in parts, especially when you spliced in a flat piece of metal, instead of the original compound curve. That area may look flat, but it is not.

Sooner or later, you will pay a financial penalty for that type repair.

Sorry, but that's the way it is.

Andy
__________________

__________________
Inland RV Center, In is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Solar Panel Installation 69Overlander Generators & Solar Power 28 03-03-2013 09:18 PM
Saggy Bottom ( rear end ) smily Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 127 10-01-2006 09:28 PM
replacement panel maznblu Ribs, Skins & Rivets 4 09-18-2002 06:45 PM
Dented panel replaced Jim W Ribs, Skins & Rivets 1 07-08-2002 08:07 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:47 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.