Well I finally got around to replacing the quarter panel. I pulled the panel off and it is indeed a compund curve, not flat. The panel cost about $450 new. I have the panel out now. I belive that I am going to cut the damaged (flat portion out) and rivet a new section in place on the panel and then put the quarter panel back on. It will not look as nice as a full sheet, but with all of the upgrades that i have been completing on this rig, I can't spare $450 currently. sw
I am going to utilize the Olymic bulb-tite rivets. Unfortunately I am either going to have to purchase a shaver or be really careful with a dremel tool to clean the head of the Rivet. I am not sure if they are 3/16 or 5/32. I ordered 100 of them from Inland RV for $20. I have a box full at the house I will measure the width and get back to you.
I am going to utilize the Olymic bulb-tite rivets. Unfortunately I am either going to have to purchase a shaver or be really careful with a dremel tool to clean the head of the Rivet. I am not sure if they are 3/16 or 5/32. I ordered 100 of them from Inland RV for $20. I have a box full at the house I will measure the width and get back to you.
Slade
From 1969 to present, all the sections of metal on the front and rear end shells are compound curves, except the panels below the front and rear window.
You cannot replace the quarter panels with flat metal.
Put a straight edge from the top of the quarter panel to the bottom and you will quickly see that it is "not" straight.
Unless you remove the complete shell from a damaged trailer, you cannot remove a segment or quarter panel and use it again.
There are blind rivets that hold those panels in place on the first or last main bow as the case may be, which are underneath the side, window and roof sheets of aluminum.
You will need to get a replacement from a dealer. The cost is ball park $400.00 for a quarter panel. If you wish to polish the trailer, the new quarter panel will exactly match the shine as it originally did, even though a different aluminum is used.
Turn the loss into your insurance company.
A dealer that knows how to replace that panel, will charge about $1000.00 or more, to replace it, plus freight. Labor, depending on the shop, will be about 8 hours, turn key.
Go with the insurance and fix it right ,sounds like a nightmare ,what with the
hidden rivits and what else you need to do to even get at them.Even at 1500
dollars ,it as good as new !!
Unfortunately, It is a bit more complicated than that as the damage to the trailer was done last fall. Trust me I would have submitted this to my ins co. if it was still possible. To make a long story short I waited too long to file the claim and have since switched inusrance cos, so the damage is not insurable.
That said. The repairs are complete. I took the old quarter panel, cut out the damaged section along the front of it (about the first 12 inches of the quarter panel were completely cut out). I then Added in a piece of .032 flat sheet. Matched the rivet pattern on the rest of the rig. and replaced the quarter panel. I am not sure if I am missing something about blind rivets, etc., but the quarter panel slid right out and with a little coaxing and a few sheetmetal cuts to my fingers, slid right back in. It took me about 1 hour to remove the rivets, 2 hours to mend the quarter panel and patch in a new secion of rib that was bent and about 3 hours to slide the quarter panel back into place perma-bond and re-rivet. I still have to clean up the rivets. It definiitely does not look as good as a non patched quarter (there is a patch), but it actually came out looking better than I had expected. All of the rivets I took out were bucked, so the quarter panel has probably never been replaced. Interestingly enough, the panel had not been sealed, with a few exceptions of vulcum around the taillight housing. The other interesting thing is that the flat sheets on my rig seem to be .032 while the compund section that I repaired was slightly thinner, .025? Anyway I just need to figrue out how I am going to clean up all fo these rivets and put the trim and the awning back in place.
Long term I would like to replace the panel with one that has not been mended but I am already way over budget on this trailer with all of the other projects that I am currently doing (new furniture, floor coverings, tank relocations to name a few) and had to make a concession on the quarter panel. Right now $450 is too much to spend when I can fix it for $20 and $1000-$2500 is not even in the cards unless I want to end up in divorce court.
You still can submit a claim to the "old" insurance company.
Thery may squawk, but legally, they must honor your claim.
If they refuse, you can take them to small cliams court and win, hands down.
But you must be prepared with an estimate from a Certified Airstream dealer.
What you did is ok, but it reduces the value of your Airstream far more than you may realize.
A repair, that is spliced in, suggests improper repairs to a buyer, who will assume that other parts of the trailer have been likewise repaired in the same fashion, namely, scabbing in parts, especially when you spliced in a flat piece of metal, instead of the original compound curve. That area may look flat, but it is not.
Sooner or later, you will pay a financial penalty for that type repair.
Andy, Thanks for your advice and words of wisdom. I will approach my old ins co. when I get the bandwith. One way or another, I would like to replace the panel with a new one. I am located in AZ, looks like the logical place to take the rig is Oasis in Tucson. They offer the part alone for $450.
Again, I really am suprised how well this patch job turned out. I had visions of something a lot worse when I was completing the work.
Slade....Do you have any pics to share?? Would love to see how it looks as I need the same rear corner panel replaced. Your lucky the panel slid right out....I'd like to try replacing mine but I've heard the sealant can be a real bugger and sometimes you can cause more damage. Dealership I rec'd an estimate from quoted me $1800 ...ouch.
Slade....Do you have any pics to share?? Would love to see how it looks as I need the same rear corner panel replaced. Your lucky the panel slid right out....I'd like to try replacing mine but I've heard the sealant can be a real bugger and sometimes you can cause more damage. Dealership I rec'd an estimate from quoted me $1800 ...ouch.
A rear quarter panel, parts and labor should run about $1200.00 to replace, unless there is internal damage. Labor is never more than 8 hours.
Freight could also be an extra.
$1800.00 sounds like somone wants to make a quick trip to Hawaii.
pictures? i have dents on both of my trailers. i would like to see what the end result might look like if i were to tackle them the same way you have. i'm guessing your repair technique will provide me with a better look than the dents i've been living with.
Dave, Sorry I did nto respond in a timely manner. I did not check email over the weekend. I will be happy to suppy a picture. Unfortunately I did not take any during the process, but I will post one this evening which shows the repaired panel.
Thanks for the compliment. I still have to repaint the rear marker light bezel. I had it all painted up nicely and then smeared it in parbond when I was installing and used acetone to clean the parbond off of it. I now need to remask and repaint. I am also wondering if I should do away with the red and blue stripes doun the aft secion of the rig when I finish stripping what is left of the clearcoat. Ideas, Thoughts?
What sort of damage do you have to the panel on your rig?
Thanks for the compliment. I still have to repaint the rear marker light bezel. I had it all painted up nicely and then smeared it in parbond when I was installing and used acetone to clean the parbond off of it. I now need to remask and repaint. I am also wondering if I should do away with the red and blue stripes doun the aft secion of the rig when I finish stripping what is left of the clearcoat. Ideas, Thoughts?
What sort of damage do you have to the panel on your rig?
sw
Most quarter panel damage is done to the portion below thw lower belt line molding, such as in your case.
That being the case, you could have spliced in the aluminum plate underneath the lower belt line molding.
That would have eliminated the need to do any painting.
What sort of damage do you have to the panel on your rig?
sw
i backed into a tree at night. here it is...
i've tried the ding king and plungers with no luck. that dent is in there good. someone suggested fire and ice as aluminium has memory? after checking out slade's fix maybe an sheet layed over this dent would do the trick.
i have a matching one, actually a little worse, on my '93 1000 as well on the upper left side.
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...ouch.
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