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Old 08-03-2002, 09:40 AM   #1
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Question Question about white aluminum oxide deposits

Anyone got any solid advice about what to do with the white aluminum oxide (I think that's what it is) that is on the inside of the outer skin in several places? Is there a product recommended to clean up this? I dont want it to spread...

I'll check back later today

Will
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Old 08-20-2002, 09:02 PM   #2
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Unhappy Aluminum Oxide deposits

William. I removed some of these deposits using a bathroom tile mineral deposit remover and scrubing with steel wool. The one I used was 'Eliminate' from HD. However they were not as pronounced as shown in your pix. Try scraping the heavier stuff off and then applying the cleaner. Let me know.
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Old 08-20-2002, 10:18 PM   #3
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Visit your local motorcycle store. Aluminum oxidation is a motorcycles worst enemy. It can really ruin the looks of cast aluminum heads and cases. The show bike guys know all the tricks. They have all kinds of products to remove the oxidation and they are safe for aluminum. I would not use any of these on the outside, but the inside would be fine.

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Old 08-20-2002, 10:20 PM   #4
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Corrosion

Looks like corrosion to me and you will need to eliminate it or it will return, getting in the corners will be tough but try covering it with some POR-15 silver after you clean it up. You can use 'red' scotchbrite if you cant sand blast it using glass beads not sand.

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Old 09-02-2002, 12:04 PM   #5
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aluminum corrosion

Will

We had a Coleman Rio Grande pop up for years. In the late fall coming up from Virgina Beach we got caught in a few snow storms coming through Buffalo and Pennsalvania with lots of salt on the roads. A couple of years later I noticed holes and white blistering coming through the "aluminum" door. We kept the trailer washed and polished so I was surprised to see the problem. I completely disassembled the door and found the 1/4 inch hardboard inside soaked with moisture. The aluminum panel on the insde looked just like your photo. I replaced the hard board with new that I painted with marine paint and brushed on a coat of "Rust Check" rust prevention solution on the damaged aluminum.
This seemed to stop the corrosion problem.

Note that rust check in a sealed envierment will not dry out and will repel oxygen and moisture which is the enemy along with salt.

I have been using the "Rust Check" and "Crown" products on all of out vehicles for the last 18 years. I buy the liquid and spray it on myself with gun and compressor. It works!
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Old 09-04-2002, 04:50 AM   #6
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Cool white aluminum oxide

"Waste not, want not"
deposit in your local Airstream Bank.
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Old 09-25-2002, 06:44 PM   #7
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Oxidation removal

Another marine product might work well here. It's called Ospho, and is merely a mild solution of phosphoric acid. Available at marine, and some hardware stores. At hardware stores, look in the paint dept. Ospho is often used as a rust fixative before painting. Once you remove that corrosion, you need to determine the source as stated above, to make sure its stopped or it will eventually eat thru the skin. Also, as stated above, its a good idea to coat the area with one of the products others have mentioned.
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Old 11-03-2006, 07:51 PM   #8
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Odd place for this corrosion...

We have removed all of the padded storage doors that are along the twins in our '83 310 motorhome (as well as the ones under the sofa). I am going to recover them. When I removed the screws and vinyl coated aluminum that is attahced to the padding board. I found a white powder that rubs off with my finger only on the pieces adjacent to the freshwater tank. There is no evidence of leaks in the area. These had been covered over once, ten years ago, and they used regular staples to afix the fabric to the boards on all of the doors. I am guessing that the tank has some condensation at times. Is it possible that the moisture, combined with the staples caused the corrosion? I noticed that the sofa was stapled with copper staples to avoid rust and had planned to use those on the doors. Now I wonder if copper reacts too. It will never show, but if this is a little thing that could become a big thing, I want to deal with it. On the other hand, it has been there since the last renovation and I'd never have known had I not looked. What do you think?

(No signs of such powder anywhere else. Whew!!)
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Old 11-03-2006, 09:33 PM   #9
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Yep its corrosion alright. The only way to clean this up properly is to remove the panel from the trailer. Glass bead blast as already stated then clean with Alumiprep, (acid etch), alodine, then prime. This will need to be done to all the mating parts also. It would probably be best to just replace the panels and attaching channel. Corrosion like rust is a cancer to alumnium and unless its completly removed and the area nuturalized, no amount of scrubbing cleaning and good intensions will stop the process unless it is properly delt with. I've got this on my trailer and the skin and attach channel is going to be replaced.

Kip
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Old 04-02-2008, 01:22 PM   #10
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Aluminum Jelly?

Has anyone tried Duro Aluminum Jelly
Loctite Consumer Retail Products | Home Repairs & Home Improvement Projects

Their web site states that it

Restores and brightens dull, oxidized aluminum in minutes
Quickly and easily removes layers of "white rust," dirt and grime -- simply brush on and rinse off

I have a few small areas inside the outer skin. Left untreated but dry will it eventually corrode through to the outside? Over what approx. length of time?

My thoughts are that if it did eventually shows its face from the outside couldn't I just as easy replace a section of outer skin then as now.
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Old 04-02-2008, 01:37 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Auretrvr
{snip} Is it possible that the moisture, combined with the staples caused the corrosion?
Yep.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Auretrvr
I noticed that the sofa was stapled with copper staples to avoid rust and had planned to use those on the doors. Now I wonder if copper reacts too.
Yes. In fact, two dissimilar metals and a tiny electric current in the presence of a eutectic (salt) = storage battery and you have corrosion. Hence the use of a sacrificial anode in the hot water tank...
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Old 04-02-2008, 01:44 PM   #12
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Same reply as in the post #9 above. It all depends on how deep your current corrosion is. It doesn't take to long to remove .032 of skin.
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