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Old 03-05-2010, 12:35 PM   #15
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Question steady hand

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Originally Posted by InsideOut View Post
. I found it just as easy to set the bit by turning it backwards by hand a 1/4 turn then drilling the rivet out. ~~snip~~ and never had a single slip off the rivet using this technique - well over 1000+ rivets.
Shari
Shari did you center prick/punch the old rivets first? (what did you use if so ? )
or
Was it all done free-hand?
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Old 03-05-2010, 12:52 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Distantdrummer View Post
Shari did you center prick/punch the old rivets first? (what did you use if so ? )
or
Was it all done free-hand?
Nope, no center punch - the bucked rivets already kinda have a tic-mark at the center. That was enough to line it up, then the twist "set it" in place. Kip (Aerowood) showed us this trick...it worked really well - that combined with quality bits he mentioned was all it took.

Believe Kip when he says he's probably drilled out more rivets than anybody on the forums...I would venture a guess that he's done more than everybody on the forums combined!

A real pro - he makes it look easy and is very generous in helping and teaching others the tricks of the trade!

Shari
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Old 03-06-2010, 10:39 AM   #17
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Has anyone done a youtube video showing how to remove rivets?? Which drill size works best when removing them?
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Old 03-06-2010, 10:21 PM   #18
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rivet bit sizes

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Originally Posted by jaminalee View Post
Has anyone done a youtube video showing how to remove rivets?? Which drill size works best when removing them?
#30 for interior1/8 in. rivets #11 for 3/16 pop rivets Olympics #21
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Old 08-16-2013, 05:33 PM   #19
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Hi, I'm a little confused. I found two models
Aircraft Tool Supply | BLIND RIVET REMOVAL TOOL | 1341S is the one referenced earlier in this thread and says it's for pop/blind rivets and is $75

This one Aircraft Tool Supply | RIVET REMOVAL TOOL | 1341A
ends in "A" instead of "S" and is billed as being for solid rivets (runs $60)

On an early 70's, which one would I need to drop part of the belly pan?
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Old 08-16-2013, 06:00 PM   #20
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I found my belly pan original rivets to be 1/8 pop rivets inexpensive 1/8 drill bit works fine, some I had to replace w/3/16th rivets, no need for expensive bits for pop rivets. I have drilled more pop rivets both alum. and steel than I can count on all kinds of trailers, also have drilled buck rivets with same type of drill bits, never a prob. just use proper size. My neighbor used to work at A.S factory and this is the way that he drills out.
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Old 08-16-2013, 07:29 PM   #21
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It depends............

I have been doing aircraft construction and repairs for over 30 years. Some people are better with tools than others. If you are handy with tools and always get better than average results, then drilling by hand with a 135 degree split point bit should be fine for you. If not, the rivet removal tool is a great investment and saves frustration and almost all mistakes.

Condition of the rivet head also makes a difference. Unpolished, perfectly formed rivets will be easier to start the bit on than polished, or poorly set rivets.

TIP: When drilling by hand, you will occasionally have a rivet spin on you before the head breaks free. I use a small pair of needle nosed Vice-Grip pliers to grip the outside edge of the rivet head to hold it from spinning while completing the drilling.
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Old 08-16-2013, 07:35 PM   #22
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Removing Pop Rivets

If the mandrel is still in the center of the pop rivet, it can be difficult to keep the bit centered while drilling. Use a punch to push it backward until it pops out the back. Now the drill bit is automatically centered and ensures effortless removal unless it spins. If it spins, just use the Vice-Grips as described above.
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Old 08-16-2013, 07:49 PM   #23
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Rivet Shaving Tool for Olympic Rivets

Several people in the AS community have mentioned rivet shavers costing $500+. These are dedicated units manufactured for high volume production. If I had thousands of rivets to shave, I might consider one. For the smaller number of rivets that most of us will encounter on an Airstream, a Microstop Countersink cage with a rivet shaver cutter installed will work perfectly. All aircraft tool suppliers carry various models. Aircraft Tool Supply has a nice one:

Microstop Countersink Cage
Part Number: 133
Category: CUTTERS
Microstop Countersink, 1/4" Shank, 1/4x28 Female Thread. Fits any air or electric drill. Accepts rivet shaver bit or pilot cutter up to 1/2" diameter. Overall length: 2". 1 lbs (0.5Kg) shipping weight.
Price: $25.95


CARBIDE RIVET SHAVER BIT (p/n 3000-1/2)
1/2" Diameter. Overall length 1". Solid carbide tip for long life. 1/4X28 thread. Fits standard microstops
Price: $38.95

As stated above, if you only have a few to shave. A Dremel will work fine.
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Old 09-26-2013, 09:24 PM   #24
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The first thing I thought of when considering how to remove a bucked rivet was these, which I already had a couple of in my tool stash:



Vix-Bit Drill Bits

Which are made for centering from the outside (like pre-drilling through a hinge plate into wood) , but I can imagine that the hole in the tool would center on the crown of the rivet also. Also comes in several sizes. It's spring loaded so it would be pretty fast. BUT: I haven't tried it, still contemplating our project.

A little search showed a couple old threads, but no results of use.
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Old 09-26-2013, 11:09 PM   #25
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the rivet removal tool sold by VTS, brown tool and others is fairly similar but has interchangeable size bits and collets. well worth the money.
tim
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Old 09-27-2013, 10:17 AM   #26
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What do you mean by split tip? Are you refering to a normal spiral twist type drill bit?

Perry

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Practice, Practice, Practice. I'm going to go out on a limb here and state that I have probably drilled out more rivets then anyone else on the forums, maybe, and I do not own a rivet removal tool. They work well but I have found they just slow me down. One of the reasons that they do work well is the type of drill bits they use. They are 135 degree split tip type bits. Using the same type split tip high quality bits, that are not threaded, in a 2500 - 3000 rpm drill will give equal results.
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Old 09-27-2013, 11:26 AM   #27
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we use none of the above.

so far i have replaced 2end curved panels on my dad's safari, a panel on my GT and are working on replacing an entire exterior end cap of a 67 overlander. we also had to go pull the new end cap of the donor trailer, so we have had a lot of rivet removal to do.

the FASTEST, EASIEST way is to use a putty knife and a hammer between panels to break the buck rivet in half....insert knife under top panel, hit with hammer and the head pops off. be very careful not to scratch the good panel when inserting / removing the knife.

I drill out rivets and husband uses above technique ; he is way faster with no scratches compared to me, where i slip maybe one every 40 or 50 rivets.

also, yes, buy the rivet shaver if you're doing over 20 rivets...i started w/ dreamel and the tool is sooo worth it.
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Old 11-09-2013, 05:09 PM   #28
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Check out www.odmrv.com if your looking to rent a rivet shaver.......
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