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Old 03-18-2009, 12:07 PM   #1
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Question Panel replacement tools

I think I've just about nailed down everything I need for replacing several panels but I am stuck on one tool selection. When replacing outer panels, for example the roof, I would like to drill holes in the new panels from the inside out. So through the rib, through the end cap panels and into the fresh aluminum sheet which would be be taped in place and secured with a few Clecos.

The snag is that the rib is a C section with an internal dimension of probably 1 1/4" or maybe 1 1/2". I've looked online at pancake drill attachments, stemboat attachments and even some angled head drills all for use with stub bits. Lastly I looked at the Dremel 575 right angle attachment. Some of these are not inexpensive things so I wanted to see what everyone else could recommend. I really don't like the idea of using the old panels as templates for holes and these ribs at the end caps have too many holes to consider adding new ones. The cheapest solution I can think of was a rattle can of aluminum primer (not grey!), spray it on and take the panel down, drill holes and replace but that seems fraught with room for error.

I'll get a hole duplicator too but I'm looking for something that I can use with the panel tightly held in place for a snug fit.
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Old 03-18-2009, 02:03 PM   #2
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I wouldn't be afraid of using an old panel for a template...as a matter of fact, I'd recommend it! We did exactly that on three different trailers this last summer (check out this thread starting around post #227) and had great success.

We took the old panel off and laid it on top of the new aluminum over a sheet of plywood, then drilled a couple of holes to hold everything in place and cleo'd the "sandwich" together. Then drilled the rest of the holes and other openings....no problems with fit.

Last thought...I'd certainly rather work on a flat surface than overhead on a ladder ~ alot more control and accuracy.

Shari

P.S. Sorry, no new tools required ~
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Old 03-18-2009, 02:40 PM   #3
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Are you replacing an end cap panel, or straight sheet panels. If it is flat sheet use use the old one as Shari mentioned above. That is absolutely the best way to pick up the holes. Remember that the original has 1/8 th holes so you can do the final 5/32 step up after it is back on the trailer and then all of the holes will line up. If the Old panel has damage then pick up as many holes as possible from the undamaged portion in the same manner and then backdrill the remainder from the inside structure. If it is an endcap segment then it's completly different, and and can talk you through that also.
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Old 03-18-2009, 02:58 PM   #4
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This may sound outrageous, but you can also use a full length jobbers drill and just drill through the inside leg of the channel, then right on out through the other side and through the skin.

It's more work (twice the holes), but you don't need to worry about mis-alignment.
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Old 03-18-2009, 05:37 PM   #5
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Well I'll go and read the linked thread and check it out. I'll be replacing the flat roof, the adjacent flat street side panel and both lower flat panels, (street and road sides). I'd like to use 0.040" but they are (all but lower street) 16' panels so it'll be 0.032". Maybe I can use the plywood from the old floor and build a 16' long trestle table to work on? Luckily the end caps are almost perfect so no extra new tools for me then :-(

In case it helps anybody out later on I found threaded stub drill bits just 3/8" long at Browntools.
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Old 03-18-2009, 06:08 PM   #6
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Maybe I can use the plywood from the old floor and build a 16' long trestle table to work on?
Now you're talking a table. Be sure to have the trailer level and maybe a few extra stands under the frame, especially when changing the roof panel. Did you check out Airparts for the longer .040.
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Old 03-18-2009, 06:43 PM   #7
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I'll double check about the 0.040", I really think it would make the job easier/ better. With a bit of luck I can get the sheet/ coil shipped to Seattle or somewhere nearer the border and pick it up to avoid the several hundred "extra" dollars UPS would gouge me for in "brokerage" etc. Can you see anything obviously wrong or missing with my tool/ fastener list so far?

Stock Qty Part No. Description Price Discount Extension
BOTH 12-01298 BUCKING BAR 1-3/4 LB.
BOTH 12-01206 RIVET SET STRAIGHT 5/32X 3-1/2
BOTH 12-01264 FLUSH RIVET SET 1"X 2-1/2"
BOTH 12-02003 TP83 RIVET GUN
BOTH 12-10105 CLECO PLIERS
BOTH 12-01138 SHEET HOLDERS M-1/8 CLECO 100 units
BOTH 12-01141 SHEET HOLDERS M-5/32 CLECO 200 units
BOTH 12-01470 ECON MICRO STOP
BOTH 12-00945 AVERY 5/32 X 1/2 CSNK CUTTER
BOTH AN470AD-5-4 SOLID ALUM RIVETS MS20470AD5-4
BOTH AN470AD-5-5 MS20470AD5-5 SOLID ALUM RIVETS
BOTH AN470AD-5-7 MS20470AD5-7 SOLID ALUM RIVETS
BOTH 12-00937 5/32" DOUBLE OFFSET RIVET SET
BOTH AT532-62 HOLE DUPLICATORS AT532-62
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Old 03-18-2009, 07:29 PM   #8
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I would get a deburring tool and a chip chaser.
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Old 03-18-2009, 08:31 PM   #9
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Is the deburring tool for the edges of cut sheets and the chip chaser for the rivet holes?
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Old 03-18-2009, 08:53 PM   #10
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Thumbs up So it looks like you get some new tools after all!

The deburring tool is for cleaning the sharp edges of the drilled holes.



The chip chaser is for getting the shavings out between the sheets.



We used a light sanding disk (Scotchbrite kind) on an air tool to dull the sharp edges of the sheets before handling them after cutting.

Also add Vulkem or Trempro to your list...

Shari
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Old 03-18-2009, 08:59 PM   #11
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As for using an old panel for a template we just returned from Toscano RV in Los Banos, Ca. where we had the entire lower street side panel, 14x4'. They used our old panel as a template for cutting AND hole placement. I asked the 'tech' if that isaccurate. Well, Tony the Tech, had a very thick south of the border accent but I did understand enough that in the 29 years of working at Toscano he has not had any problem with that method. The pictures attached show the old panel removed, the work table, the new side attached temporally with screws and Tony busy attaching the new aluminum. I did not see the rivetting but witness the rivet shaving. We are very pleased with the work. Thank you Shari for clueing me to Airparts for the source for the 14 feet of 2024T3.
Neil.
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Old 03-18-2009, 09:05 PM   #12
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Quote:
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As for using an old panel for a template we just returned from Toscano RV in Los Banos, Ca. where we had the entire lower street side panel, 14x4'. They used our old panel as a template for cutting AND hole placement. I asked the 'tech' if that isaccurate. Well, Tony the Tech, had a very thick south of the border accent but I did understand enough that in the 29 years of working at Toscano he has not had any problem with that method. The pictures attached show the old panel removed, the work table, the new side attached temporally with screws and Tony busy attaching the new aluminum. I did not see the rivetting but witness the rivet shaving. We are very pleased with the work. Thank you Shari for clueing me to Airparts for the source for the 14 feet of 2024T3.
Neil.
I inadvertantly added an additional picture. It is the last one and shows the damaged former panel during removal.
Neil.
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Old 03-18-2009, 09:06 PM   #13
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What company are you using for the tool and rivet purchases. The AN numbers are now obsolete, But the MS20 are good. Are you planning on installing some flush rivets? I don't see any on your list, but I do see the microstop, If you do I would get shear head rivets as they have a smaller countersink that will not enlarge the hole like a MS20426 will in thin metal. The P/N for these is NAS1097ADX-X. I don't think you will need the -7's but you may need a few -6's which is not on your list. You most likely will not need the double offset rivet set or the strap duplicator, unless you just want them, then go for it. Is the TP83 a 3X gun. I also do not see a pneumatic drill on the list, so do you already have one? If you don't then a drill that turns 2800 to 3000 rpm would be best, but pick a small one as they tend to get heavy at the mid part of the day. Good luck and have fun
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Old 03-18-2009, 09:51 PM   #14
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Drills

Using high speed air drills properly, eliminates burring.

25,000 to 30,000 rpm works great.

No pressure needed to drill the holes, just a simple feather touch.

Lo and behold, no burrs.

Andy
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