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Old 03-18-2009, 09:52 PM   #15
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All the items on my list are going to come from Aircraft Spruce hopefully. I was thinking I'd use a few flush rivets to hold the belly pan on before the shell goes back on. I found the flush rivets you recommend but only in 4-4, hopefully they will be OK for the Bpan. I nixed the 5-7's and added some 5-6's too. Also adiosed the strap duplicator and offset rivet set. The TP83 is a 3x gun and I hadn't thought of an air drill yet. I will take a look at a smaller air drill as drilling out the interior rivets with my trusty corded Hitachi and Cordless Makitas did get tiring after a bit. Thanks for your help, if I mess up the ordering it would add weeks to get on track.

I'd be interested to know if you used 0.040" or 0.032" on your panel replacement Neil.
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Old 03-18-2009, 10:11 PM   #16
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I was thinking I'd use a few flush rivets to hold the belly pan on before the shell goes back on. I found the flush rivets you recommend but only in 4-4, hopefully they will be OK for the Bpan. Neil.
Flush rivets are not a good idea for the underbelly.

Underbelly aluminum is very soft, and any vibration will quickly loosen flush rivets.

Large head pop rivets are best for the underbelly.

Using regular pop rivets to hold the underbelly to the floor channel causes no problems, since the rub rail molding hides that area.

Andy
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Old 03-18-2009, 10:28 PM   #17
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Thanks Andy, if I cut the flush rivet stuff out it'll make that high speed drill more affordable. However I can only find a drill that goes up to 17,000, do you know where I should look for a super hyper fast one?
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Old 03-18-2009, 10:32 PM   #18
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Thanks Andy, if I cut the flush rivet stuff out it'll make that high speed drill more affordable. However I can only find a drill that goes up to 17,000, do you know where I should look for a super hyper fast one?
17,000 rpm is not bad.

Certainly far superior to en electric drill or the typical 3,000 rpm air drills.

Chicago Pneumatic makes the 25,000 to 30,000 models.

Andy
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Old 03-26-2009, 08:01 PM   #19
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Just a bit of feedback but I settled on a Chicago Pneumatic 7300R reversible mini drill (1/4" chuck, 6.2" long, 1.5 lbs weight and torquey little 0.25 hp motor). I had to nix the hyper speed drills due to a combination of availability, cost and CFM requirement. I hope the one I chose works out OK as it's so beautifully designed I'd find it hard to send it back. I've almost completed the bracing so very soon it's shell off time...

excuse the shabby photo but I had to use my macbook built in camera
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Old 03-26-2009, 08:10 PM   #20
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Cool, I have two of the nonreversable just like it.
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Old 03-26-2009, 08:22 PM   #21
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The manual suggests SAE #10 oil. Do you think regular air tool oil would be OK, I have a lot of air tools for work but none with motors.
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Old 03-29-2009, 09:58 AM   #22
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I just recently had the lower half of my coach's panel replaced. The 'tech' used mini air tools. After pre-cutting and pre-drilling the holes using the old panel as a template he held the new panel in place with screws then installed the Olympic rivets and shaved them with the shaver attachment.
Neil.
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Old 03-29-2009, 11:37 AM   #23
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The manual suggests SAE #10 oil. Do you think regular air tool oil would be OK, I have a lot of air tools for work but none with motors.
Air tool oil will be just fine. You can also use sewing machine oil, marvals, 3 in 1, or any other light oil. I,ve even used ATF in a pinch.
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Old 03-29-2009, 11:42 AM   #24
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Awesome, so I'm good to go with the oil. I wish I had a nice clean concrete pad or shop though..
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Old 03-29-2009, 03:28 PM   #25
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Sorry for not knowing, but what's the high speed drill for?
Marc
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Old 03-29-2009, 04:08 PM   #26
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I don't think it's strictly necessary given that a regular drill would work but I bought it for drilling out all the rivets. It is super compact, lightweight and fast. Plus it makes a really cool sound....
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Old 03-29-2009, 11:58 PM   #27
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Sorry for not knowing, but what's the high speed drill for?
Marc
Slow speded drill motors, especialy electric drills, allow the drill bit to chatter, which in turn creates a hole that is not a true round. They usually are ever so slightly triangular. Because of the pressure you must use, they also help create burrs,

High speed drill motors eliminate most of those problems.

Additionally, very high speed drill motors work very well with just feather pressure, that if used properly, do not create a burr as the slow speed drills do.

Sort of like Dentistry. The old belt driven hand pieces compared to the ultra high speed handpieces.

Which does a better job??

We all know that answer.

Andy
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Old 03-30-2009, 08:20 AM   #28
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Sure, but to drive a high-speed air drill, you need a beefier compressor than the average home DIYer owns. Mine is only a 2 HP 8 gallon compressor-- just fine for my rivet gun and air nailers and whatnot, but it doesn't have the CFM capacity to drive a high-speed air drill.

I haven't had any problem at all using my electric drill. The bit does chatter and the holes aren't perfect, but the solid rivets expand and fill up those gaps nicely. The hose spray test, as well as severe thunderstorms over the past 2 weeks, prove out there are no leaks.

Don't get me wrong, if I owned a trailer service or restoration shop, I'd be all over the beefy compressor and high-speed air tools. But it's tough to justify the cost for a one-off renovation, when the electric tool does the job just fine, though with a bit more effort.

Anyway, your plan to fashion banana wraps for the bellypan and fill in the middle separately will work just fine. It's what I'm doing, and what many other restorers have done. In some ways, it makes more sense than using full sheets, because you can design the belly panels to cover specific areas and then make them more easily removeable as "access panels" in case you need to make a specific modification or repair.

And I definitely echo Andy's suggestion to use those large-head pop rivets for attaching it to the frame underneath. You might be able to buck some of those rivets along the edge if you really want to, but I don't think you're going to get much (if any) advantage, and the wide heads of the special pop rivets will distribute the load better.

Good luck!

-Marcus
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