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Old 10-07-2004, 10:49 AM   #1
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1959 26' Overlander
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Panel or not

This is really a motivation issue. I have the floor out of the back of the overlander (59). On the streetside where the bathroom was the aluminum was rotted. So new belly pan in the back. I used a grinder from the inside to remove the lower rivets and the white corrosion, which smelled of it's origins so to speak. This worked well but takes some care. Two layers of aluminum before the exterior skin for the rivet. Happens that the lower panel on that side has a long shallow rub crease. The lower interior rib is bent a little as well. So. It seems if that panel is ever going to get changed that now is the time to do it. There are alot of rivets. The panel is less than 4 foot high. But is it a flat piece?. I sure don't want to get this off and find that it is press shaped in some way. If it's flat I'll have the old one for a pattern. Since the interior is out I'll be able to seal the inside. Frankly I am little considered about three things,
Getting it back together, esp where it connects to the rear panel and window structure, even polished it may stand out more than the damage, and if I keep taking this thing apart.......

Warnings, encouragement, advice...
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Old 10-07-2004, 11:19 AM   #2
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If you are talking about the rear quarter sheet, it is flat and should be easily duplicated. Since you can buy the exact same aluminum - you won't be able to tell the difference once its polished.

Can you attach a picture of the damage? It will be easier for us all to understand what you are up against.

Ken
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Old 10-07-2004, 11:26 AM   #3
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Here is a shot of my old aft panel.It is flat.
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Old 10-07-2004, 12:06 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Over59
This is really a motivation issue.
Warnings, encouragement, advice...
Like Ken said, it's flat. You can check easily with a straight edge. Here's a picture of my side sheet replacement. Just waiting for some help rivetting.
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Old 10-07-2004, 01:02 PM   #5
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Picture would be a good idea. The new camera batteries should get here any day now. So what about the grinding off rivets from the inside. It goes fast and I think it would keep the original hole from enlargement. How much do you have to talk funny to get a corner panel lined up with the holes and back on?
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Old 10-07-2004, 01:15 PM   #6
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Sounds to me like a grinder works well as long as you don't grind into the frame and are going to waste the belly alum. I've always drilled mine and it worked well too. Grinders can get pretty scary to me, so I prefer the drill.

I'll let others tell you how funny you have to talk to get a panel on. Although I would guess it's more the required vocabulary that you may need to aquire.

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Old 10-07-2004, 01:20 PM   #7
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Quote:
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Picture would be a good idea. The new camera batteries should get here any day now. So what about the grinding off rivets from the inside. It goes fast and I think it would keep the original hole from enlargement. How much do you have to talk funny to get a corner panel lined up with the holes and back on?
You have a picture posted already. It's DSCF0203 in your photo album.
I prefer drilling out the rivets from the outside using a #21 drill; correction, #30 drill bit.

You shouldn't have any problem drilling new holes. The panel you are replacing lays under all the surrounding panels, so just drill through the old holes in the adjoining panels. I drilled all the holes 1/8", then after it was positioned and held in place by Clecoes, I enlarged all the holes to a #21 drill bit.

The holes at the bottom are covered by the rub strip, so you don't need to use the same locations. Just make sure the holes in the bottom are all in a straight line so the rivet heads fit inside the recessed channel in the rub strip.
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