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Old 07-08-2016, 07:53 PM   #29
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Paintless dent removal

I agree with Moflash. You could mess it up to the point where even a pro could not repair it.
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Old 07-10-2016, 02:11 PM   #30
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Above a photo of the basic gear I think you need for the hot glue PDR repair on small dents/hail damage. Look on Amazon, there are knock off brands of the Mini Dent Lifter. The total for what you see here will be around $100-150. It does pay to buy the best plastic puller tabs.
The work shown was on a contiguous pair of dents the size of a silver dollar and quarter. Not deep, just a pair of smooth indentations caused by my knee when a step ladder slipped. There are a number of good YouTube videos on the process. Here is a very good one:
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Old 07-10-2016, 02:25 PM   #31
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After watching this video again, do not use a sharp snap to pull the glue tab. That's OK for steel, but for our aluminum, which is much softer, just use a slow pull while watching the surrounding metal. There is no need to over pull with a sharp snap of the puller or handle. You can re-glue and re-pull as many times as necessary without overdoing it using one big snap.
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Old 07-19-2016, 12:10 PM   #32
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I am a new, proud owner of a 2004 International and have a few dents I would like to try to repair myself. Question on the PDR technique with the hot glue gun...will the hot glue pull the clear coat off the trailer? Should I try with a plunger first?

thanks!

-Cal
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Old 07-19-2016, 05:54 PM   #33
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No, the glue will not pull the clear coat off--unless the coat is already compromised from underneath (in that case, a dent is not the worse problem). Use denatured alcohol to release the glue from the metal or pull tab.
As stated above, the Aluminum will not "knock" (tap) back down as well as steel will. Therefore, watch your pull and stop/remove tab when the dent looks pulled near flush. Pull again if not quite there. Better to make several easy pulls than to over pull and then have to knock the hump back down (over pull then knock back down is the procedure for steel). I know a pro can work the aluminum as well as steel, but AL is tough to work with for that final spotless finish-especially for a beginner. The dents I've worked out are probably 75-80%, where a pro's work would be 95%. Not even near perfect, but I have to look closely to see work on dents from dime sized hail, to a deep tennis ball size spot up high in back where dealer dropped an AC unit during install.
Looking for, but yet to find, a U Tube video on aluminum.


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Old 07-24-2016, 08:55 AM   #34
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Paintless dent removal

As you can see from the photos I have a few dents to repair also. The dents in the rear were there when I bought the As, the dents in the front are new - a tree branch broke off during a storm and (of course) fell on the TT. These dents are accessible by removing the end caps from the inside and using a rubber dent roller to help push it back into shape. I was wondering - has anyone tried to do this? I understand that by using a heat gun, one can heat the metal a bit to help the metal 'return' to its original shape and ease the stress on the edges of the dent.

If anyone has tried to fix dents such as these with nothing more than a suction cup-type dent remover (automotive) please let me know. That could save me a bunch of work. Somehow, I don't think I'll be that fortunate. Thanks
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Old 07-24-2016, 09:31 AM   #35
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I don't think you will get enough of those dents out with glue or suction cup to be happy. I am a certified paint bull pdr tech and my suggestion would be to pull the interior panels out so that you can push the dents from the backside. Where the aluminum has creased will always show, so don't expect a new looking end cap when you're done.
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Old 07-24-2016, 11:00 AM   #36
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Paintless dent removal

Try my idea with an inner tube, plywood and shop vac.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f4/how-i-removed-a-dent-in-the-front-end-cap-153091.html
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Old 07-24-2016, 06:15 PM   #37
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Thanks 73Argosy... I think I have no choice but to get at these from behind the panels. A mechanic friend saw the TT today and said the same thing. He cautioned me to always use a piece of plywood or something flat as anything sharp will leave spikes, dimples, or worse. He said to work slow and take your time. While it may not be perfect, it will certainly be an improvement and will save me $$. Besides, I need to repair other problems. I tried to look up the video using the inner tube idea but the video was no longer there. ((At least, I could not pull it up). Thanks all.
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Old 07-24-2016, 06:25 PM   #38
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I'm going to have to try the inner tube technique. I have a small dent on the front end cap on top (I can see it standing on the hitch but it's hidden from the ground).
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Old 07-24-2016, 07:40 PM   #39
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I would start with just the palm of hand, the aluminum is thin and very easy to push. Start from the center of the dent and then do criss cross along the outer edges of each dent. Do it a little at time on each dent, it may take several times on each dent. As a previous poster stated it is much harder to push a high spot back down. On steel sheeting the metal has memory and will often "pop" back into its factory position, aluminium is very soft and has little to no memory so be easy. Once you have pushed the majority of the dents out you can go back with the HANDLE END of a screw driver to massage out the remaining dents and creases to an extent. I have worked a door ding or two on the wife's Jaguar xj (aluminum skin) and can't stress enough to go easy and push a little at a time.
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Old 07-24-2016, 09:39 PM   #40
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There is no video on using the inner tube. Just detailed instructions. It's a simple matter of centering the tube over the dent, lay the plywood over the tube, connect the shop vac hose to the plywood. Press down and turn on the shop vac.
You can experiment with it by laying the tube on a hard surface, plywood on tube, connect the shop vac and hit the switch. Then while the shop vac is running try to lift the plywood.
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Old 08-18-2016, 12:02 PM   #41
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If you can access this area from the inside you can just push it out. The skin wants to go back to its' rolled configuration. I recently had a visible dent just cure itself.
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