I have a 1952 Boles Aero (I know, this is an Airstream forum but you guys have all the knowledge!!). I need to do some riveting and a Boles Aero has the solid rivets with a little dimple in the center of the head (looks kind off like a center punch mark). I would prefer to ues Olympic rivets, but shaved they don't match the dimple head I have. Has anyone ever done this and figured out how to put the matching dimple in the head?
The dimple indicates the original rivet was a hardened rivet. You could easily duplicate it (after shaving) with a not-too-sharp center punch. Don't punch to hard or you will push out the stem, just push by hand.
Marlyn,
How many rivets are you planning on replacing? If it is going to be more than say about 50 I would go ahead an do the bucked rivets. Otherwise use the Olympics and dimple the head. FWIW the Olympics don't have as much holding power as the bucked rivets...
Aaron
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Those rivets are an "AD" rivet, 2117 aluminum. If you post a picture I could tell you if it is available and the MS part number. Several different protruding head styles were used in the 50's before things settled down to the common protruding universal head used today p/n MS20470ADX-X. IMHO solid shank rivets are always better then blind.
If you are near Mpls, you can probably borrow a rivet shaver when the time comes to shave the rivets. It's stored in a secret location near the western suburbs.
If you are near Mpls, you can probably borrow a rivet shaver when the time comes to shave the rivets. It's stored in a secret location near the western suburbs.
Hey, we need one of those secretly hidden shavers out here in the New England area! I have to stop loaning mine out to everyone!
__________________ J. Rick Cipot Sandi Gould NEUNew England Unit Airstream Life Magazine WBCCI #3411 AIR #17099
Thanks for the advice. I'll try to post a photo of my current rivets soon to see what might match it. I think I'll probably just go with solid rivets instread of blind since I think I'll be doing quite a bit of riveting. While I have the interior removed, I really should replace almost the entire curb side due to some dents, serious scratches, and some holes drilled in it. On the street side, the skin is very good except for a small 2" tear. Has anyone used HTS-2000 to braze aluminum to repair a tear instead of doing a patch?
Use the Olympic rivets, there easy to use and they only require one person to put in. The bucking rivets take time to learn how to install correcty, and if the head of the impact gun jumps off the head you will damage the metal. Olympic rivets work just fine and if you have a good seal on the panel laps the panels will never move. I have done the entire outside, every panel replaced with Olympic rivets and not a panel has moved one bit. If everything is tight on the panels and the interior is tight to the walls and frame work then you got nothing to worry about. Go the easier way and use the Olympics. You can get them from Inland RV. Also it is really hard to repair a panel without, in most cases causing more damage. it's not that hard to replace the whole panel, It can take a little time, but in the end it's well worth it. T2024T3 0.32 is selling in my area for about $175.00 sheet for a 4x12.
I think bucked rivets are a much nicer solution if you need to do a whole sheet. They take a lot less time to put in, you don't need to shave them, and you can run them closer to ribs without having to worry about the legs hitting something.
You do need to have access to both sides though. Give me a call. I have a bunch of Clecos you can borrow.
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