New to Riveting

[mimiandrews]

Originally Posted by aholmquist

Such great answers on this thread. I just got my AS and I have some windows to get new seals in and they are riveted in. I am wondering if there is a hand tool for the buck rivets or do you pretty much have to go with the pneumatic buck rivet tool? I'm looking for one and don't see anything online.....but maybe I am searching for the wrong thing. I don't really want to spend $300 for a rivet machine......but maybe I will need it by the end of this project? Nobody rents them in my town. Thank you.

I've seen WWII era aircraft mechanics set buck rivets with a hammer. You need a bucking bar with a recess the shape of the rivet head. With that held firmly against the head of the rivet, strike the tail of the rivet with a hammer until the formed head is the correct shape. Of course, this takes a whole new set of special bucking bars, and lots of practice.

Why don't you go to eaa.org and find your closest chapter of the Experimental Aircraft Association. Those guys build their own airplanes, and they often have riveting tools. While few people are comfortable lending tools, they may be willing to shoot a few rivets for you.

[nrgtrakr]

Again, not a fan of bucking due to the ripple effect, but here is all that is needed, even a manual.
http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/...ting_s/206.htm

[Aerowood]

If you are getting wavy results, there are reasons this is happening. Post some pictures and I can most likely give you some tips. It could be an equipment problem or a technic problem, which ever it is, I would be willing to talk you through it.

[nrgtrakr]

The wavy results I am referring to are the factory rivets on my 75.
In HS metal shop one of our assignments was to make a bowl from a flat piece of copper - a process very much like bucking rivets.
All things considered, I'll stick to Olympic rivets thanks.

[KrisE MN]

Originally Posted by jimmbob

Took r '76 31' LY to Michigan races. Lots of leaks. Our next project is to seal them. Trying to find a good window to aluminum sealer until I find new gaskets.

id think vts could get new gaskets out fast. Better than cleaning up goo

[desertair27]

Originally Posted by nrgtrakr

The wavy results I am referring to are the factory rivets on my 75.
In HS metal shop one of our assignments was to make a bowl from a flat piece of copper - a process very much like bucking rivets.
All things considered, I'll stick to Olympic rivets thanks.

From what I've read Olympics leak and aren't near as strong. Lots of RV shops use them to save money and time since you don't need access to the backside of the river. Won't you need a $250 Olympic rivet shaver now?
I'd stick with solid rivets when you can.

[nrgtrakr]

Interesting ...
Out of curiosity I read what the zoomies (aircraft builders) have to say, my synopsis ...
Hole to rivet size match - e.g. as little slop as possible - is the biggest determining factor for strength. Next is what the rivets are made from (not type), as in grade of aluminum, etc. But I found no overall consensus about bucked rivets being superior to blind or vice versa, or a preference in application other than bucked rivets can be less expensive, and sometimes bucking is not possible.
Which oddly enough is what was taught in HS metal shop and when I was taught to repair an Army missile system.
For an Airstream application, like anywhere else, any time there is a outer skin penetration, there is the potential for a leak. If there was not a potential for leaks in an AS, then the original bucked rivets I removed to take out the broken window would not have had the inside slathered in Vulkem - not just around the window, but on the ribs as well.
No shaver needed thanks! If you're good with an angle grinder with a fine blade, then come back and polish with emory the look is the same.
But I could be confused ...