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Old 03-15-2012, 09:20 PM   #15
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1975 31' Sovereign
1973 27' Overlander
1977 23' Safari
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Just an odd side question, has anyone ever used polished copper sheets?
Somebody did a copper shower last year, maybe two years ago. I wonder if it was FOTOCHOP?
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Old 03-16-2012, 12:48 AM   #16
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Marzboy -

Thanks for your reply- I was just over on your blog trying to see what you used for your interior only to discover you have not done that yet. We have the same exact trailer and I am doing a complete shell of resto. Your blog and input on this site have been amazing - I have snooped over your sites to see how you did everything from buck rivetin, joining the floor boards, axles ---------- only problem now is that is seems that I have caught up and we are at the exact place in our porgects. Thanks for sharing so freely.

Rummrunner - I do not know where you can get 2024 in Salt Lake but in Pocatello one of the steel companies is able to order it for me - but for a ridiculous price - $245 a sheet - I called Airspruce and the same sheet ( 2024 T3 .032 '4 x 12' ) is $167 and the shipping for 12 sheets is only $200 - $700 cheaper with shipping than buying locally.
Rob
Rob
I'm sure by now that you have noticed that there are very few of us that have chosen the 65 Sovereign for their resto project! Glad to see my pain has helped a fellow streamer. I am hoping to finish stripping the old wire clean up the interior shell and start insulating this Sunday. I have to plan the new wiring before I get to the inner shell. I have a few small tasks on the outer shell(emblems ,lights,seams) before I can call it. Lets see some pics of that trailer!
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Old 05-05-2012, 12:48 AM   #17
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1965 20' Globetrotter
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Belly skin

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Originally Posted by InsideOut View Post
I'm not an "expert" but we found our interior skins to be the same thickness as the exterior skins .032 in both our '64 GlobeTrotter & our '56 Safari.

I believe the original aluminum on both the interior & exterior are the same Alclad 2024-T3. The exceptions are, the belly pan which is thinner .025 and the formed endcaps on the '64 GlobeTrotter which were a different alloy that's softer. In our '56 the 13-panel endcaps are flat so they were 2024-T3 too.

When we replaced our belly we did so with 5052. We also purchased it all in "roll" form. It came in a 20x20x52"+/- box. We ordered enough to to do the long streetside panels on two '64 GlobeTrotters and both the interior & exterior streetside on our '56 Safari all at once - about 42'x4' and cut it as needed. No problem with it laying out flat, but be careful when releasing it from the box - it springs open like a knife!

Shari
Shari, was that 5052 .032 for your belly?

I've noticed that my endcaps on my '65 GT seem "softer" and not as firm as the rest of the exterior. I have a dent in my front center over the front window, and am debating replacing with 2024T3 .032 or have a body guy try to smooth em out, what do you think? Inland has the center for $500 (probably still have to drill out though).

Thanks in advance,
TIMK
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Old 12-03-2012, 12:26 AM   #18
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Russel Metals

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Suggestions on where to buy the aluminum now adays?
I am getting mine from Russel Metals. $50 For a 4x8 sheet of 5052 .032.
They also have stringer/rib stock.

Jon
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Old 06-05-2013, 11:44 PM   #19
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1980 20' Caravelle
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Originally Posted by rumrunner View Post
do you know of a source for 2024 in salt lake city?
Hi,
Did you ever find a source for the interior skin material in UT? I am up in Ogden and am getting ready to do the interior skins.
Thanks,
Tim
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Old 06-25-2013, 03:16 PM   #20
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Richards sheet metal in Ogden just quoted me $48 a 4x10 sheet for .032 5052. I think I'll buy 10 for my 20' Caravelle and have extra for interior partitions in the bathroom if I don't screw up too many pieces
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Old 06-25-2013, 05:19 PM   #21
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1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
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I have to throw in a bit here...
I buy all my metal from AirParts Inc. Their service and pricing cannot be beat in my opinion. Order before 12 and it goes out that day. To the East Coast it is second day service for me. Whatever I purchase, I always have it coated with a PVC film to minimize the scratching. It can be peeled off after you do your fabricating and is worth the extra cost. For interiors I use 5052 H38 in .040. I have found the extra thickness also worth the extra few dollars. I find .025 to be worthless. It buckles and bows way too easily. For anything exterior it is 2024. For skins, belly and patches I use 2024 T3 .032 in all cases. For exterior items that require bending you cannot use T3, it snaps on the bend. I use 2024 T0 in the .040 thickness for that. Eyebrows above the door are a prime example of where this comes into place. I also use it for new bumper compartments since I totally build them different than they were originally so no water can go under the floor.
Now for the part some will frown on and not appreciate me saying; Bare aluminum, of any alloy on the interior is a fools errand. I have done it numerous times on clients project and even in my own. It is a serious maintenance nightmare! It looks good when you put it in and then it goes all to heck. Every person coming in to see your trailer will, without a thought, reach out and touch it. When they do, the oils in their hands leave a finger print that will never go away. If you use it in the bathroom and it is within 4 feet of the toilet, any man using the bathroom will leave little white spots all over it no matter how careful he is. Interior aluminum is meant to be painted. That is why Wally used zolatone on the interior. He was a smart dude unlike the later Presidents who thought of the trailers as just a product.
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Old 06-26-2013, 06:35 PM   #22
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1962 26' Overlander
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Got a little message, so I want to add some info... .040 T0 2024 Alclad is used over .032 because it is very soft and needs a little extra thickness over the T3 2024...
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Old 07-02-2013, 10:57 AM   #23
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Anodized interior skin??

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Originally Posted by 62overlander View Post
Now for the part some will frown on and not appreciate me saying; Bare aluminum, of any alloy on the interior is a fools errand. I have done it numerous times on clients project and even in my own. It is a serious maintenance nightmare! It looks good when you put it in and then it goes all to heck. Every person coming in to see your trailer will, without a thought, reach out and touch it. When they do, the oils in their hands leave a finger print that will never go away. If you use it in the bathroom and it is within 4 feet of the toilet, any man using the bathroom will leave little white spots all over it no matter how careful he is. Interior aluminum is meant to be painted. That is why Wally used zolatone on the interior. He was a smart dude unlike the later Presidents who thought of the trailers as just a product.
Thanks for the input. I always like how people on this forum are willing to share their experience and ideas. I'm definitely going with the plastic coat. I found a local supplier who has one side PVC for just $4 a sheet extra so I think that will be well worth it. I also asked about anodizing and I wondered if anybody has tried that. They have 0.040" anodized 5005 H34 ClearMatt .000250 for $80 per 4x10 sheet. The .040 will add about 40 pounds overall, but if the andodized was a lot better I would think hard about it.
Thanks,
Tim
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