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Old 11-01-2013, 11:40 AM   #1
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1976 27' Overlander
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How to fix/ cover/ seal screw holes from old awning?

I'm trying to address in filling some old holes in the skin.

1. I have some enlarged holes in the skin from poor awning bracket install from PO. It looks to be 2- 5/32 or 3/16 holes right next to each other. Wondering if I can drill it out and buck a huge rivet in there? Or if best to patch it. However, I'm unclear on patches... If I'm scabbing a piece over an area that's peppered with holes, I assume I'm relying on the sealant for my seal? and the new rivets are simply holding the scab, which protects the sealant...

2. I have a spot on the rib and seam just fore of the window, that is fore of the entry door. The spot is where the original Carefree awning hold down bracket was mounted. The mounting hole was drilled RIGHT on the shoulder of the rivet head underneath... The bracket was mounted with a 1/4 coarse threaded hex bolt. The seam is a little loose from what appears to be awning- wind damage causing a bend/ dimple. I dont know if I should just install a 1/4 stainless fastener gooped up in sealant? But I'd LIKE to draw the seam in tighter somehow, and do a proper fix to it.

Right now I have 1/4 stainless fasteners screwed in, with a rubber washer to seal it, but this is a short term arrangement to keep out the water.


Any help is greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Micky
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Old 11-01-2013, 11:47 AM   #2
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Can you access the back side?
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Old 11-01-2013, 11:50 AM   #3
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Yup- Shell is empty
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Old 11-01-2013, 11:51 AM   #4
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Buck patch nickel size patch rivet buck or Olympic in the center.
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Old 11-01-2013, 11:55 AM   #5
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They make a large head rivet - I got mine from the Inland RV in Washington (Airstream Supply). I put sealant on the backside of the rivet and it seals. the large head covers a lot. They look like regular rivets but the head is larger - sticks out the same - not like the ones in your picture.
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Old 11-01-2013, 12:00 PM   #6
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Here's the outside and inside shot of each location.
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Old 11-01-2013, 12:07 PM   #7
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Problem I'm afraid with filling the hole with rivet is twofold:
1. The holes that I put the ss screws in are at least 1/4" holes. (is there a 1/4"- 5/16" 9/32" rivet that would look ok? or even available?)
2. The 1/4" hole in one spot is RIGHT on the shoulder of the original buck rivet underneath.

Not sure I follow you RM66caravel??
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Old 11-01-2013, 04:51 PM   #8
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I would bush the holes down to 3/16 and then shoot a MS20470A-6-4 rivet through the bushings. You can get aluminum bushings at most Ace Hardware stores. Drill the hole out to give you a approx .003 interferance fit and then drive the bushing into the hole, sand the bushing flush on both surfaces and then buck the rivets into place with a bucktail big enough to retain the bushing. If the holes are 3/16" or smaller just shoot in some MS20470A-5-4 soft aluminum rivets as they will swell enough to fill even a 3/16" hole. Remember to use a 3/16 rivet set for the 3/16" rivets. Using a 5/32 will leave big smilys on the rivethead
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Old 11-01-2013, 05:18 PM   #9
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If I were to do it, I'd make a small scab that fits the window curve and extends forward to the edge of the seam. I'd take out those godawful zits and the two bucked rivets, then install the patch (with a similar patch on the inside) with three bucked rivets through the rib, some Vulkem under both patches, and maybe one bucked rivet in the small triangle between the rib and the window. It will be mostly invisible and super strong.

If you have Kip's sleeves in between the patches, all the better but probably not required. If you do use the sleeves under the patches, you'll have to match drill the two patches separately, then put it all together. The advantage is that you will be able to use original brazier 1/8" rivets or universal 3/16" rivets to maintain the original look.

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Old 11-01-2013, 05:49 PM   #10
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Ok- trying to digest all this.... i'm guessing you guys addressed 2 different areas... Here's my questions:

Aerowood- You idea sounds good for the street side window awning brackets with the double hole mess.

Not sure I fully understand the bushing concept. I think the double holes will need to be greater than 3/16 once drilled out round. Would the bushing just press fit into the hole, then the rivet head and tail is what keeps the bushing in place?
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Old 11-01-2013, 05:53 PM   #11
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Zep- is this what you had in mind? Drill out the 6 original rivets, slide a piece cut to fit the curve "under the window trim, with another doubler on the back side, then re- rivet back through the original holes? That way the huge holes underneath are simply covered up?

Or are you thinking NOT go under the window lip, and just ride the edge for clean seam?
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Old 11-01-2013, 06:09 PM   #12
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Aerowood- is this what you're talking about?
AluminumSpacers.com

I dont get it though...

Essentially, I'd drill say 1/4" hole, press fit a sliver of the bushing, then sand it flush and squeeze it tight with the bucked rivet?

Having a hard time visualizing get a sliver of bushing .032 thick to sit still while I buck a rivet through it....
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Old 11-01-2013, 06:23 PM   #13
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The other problem is the holes above the center window on the curb side. Must have been for a center awning rafter or something. Problem is the holes are right into the aluminum extrusion on the inside. See here.
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Old 11-01-2013, 10:24 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mixter View Post
Zep- is this what you had in mind? Drill out the 6 original rivets, slide a piece cut to fit the curve "under the window trim, with another doubler on the back side, then re- rivet back through the original holes? That way the huge holes underneath are simply covered up?

Or are you thinking NOT go under the window lip, and just ride the edge for clean seam?
Nice graphic.

No, I was thinking just to the edge of the window extrusion, not under it. I think that makes for a clean look.

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