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Old 05-18-2004, 01:47 PM   #29
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This person is selling panel parts (among other rv items) on ebay. New seller, so no feedback. If you know your panel number this might help you:
dillonsparts
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Old 05-18-2004, 01:58 PM   #30
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segment number

how do i find out my segment number
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Old 05-18-2004, 04:00 PM   #31
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Panel replacement

FireFighter and Greg176.

All sheetmetal can be replaced from the exterior, using "olympic rivets" and some vulkem sealer.

Quarter panels, segments, side sheets, window sheets, roof sheets, all don't matter. What does matter is like most anything else. "How do you do it?"

Thats where the service manual comes in handy. The methods are the same, regardless of year.

We have the segments from 1968 and down.

It is best to send us a photo of the damaged metal, along with a serial number of the trailer.

Then there is no making a mistake, getting the correct metal part.

Andy

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Old 05-20-2004, 08:09 AM   #32
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look at me know

alright here is a picture of where i am with the dent, i spent about an hour cut a small hole in the fiberglass behind the medicine cabinet (which i will rivet back in place when finished) and using my hands pushed the dent out, those creases are a bitch. any way here is where i am at what does everyone think? any suggesstions on furthering progress? once i put the fiberglass back in i plan on filling this cavity with expanding foam to make sure that the panel does not get pushed back in due to the creases i can see this happening very easily?
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Old 05-20-2004, 08:55 AM   #33
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Dents

Firefighter,

What you've done so far by hand is a great start. If you haven't already done so, read the Tinman's article on how to get the creases out.
I don't think it will ever look like new, but he has some pointers on what tools to use and how to proceed.
http://www.tinmantech.com/html/repai...um_part_2.html
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Old 05-20-2004, 09:13 AM   #34
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wow

is he speaking in tongues, that is some pretty in depth stuff. i will try some of those things and see what i can do no matter what happens still looks better than yesterday.
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Old 05-20-2004, 10:49 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FireFighter
alright here is a picture of where i am with the dent, i spent about an hour cut a small hole in the fiberglass behind the medicine cabinet (which i will rivet back in place when finished) and using my hands pushed the dent out, those creases are a bitch. any way here is where i am at what does everyone think? any suggesstions on furthering progress? once i put the fiberglass back in i plan on filling this cavity with expanding foam to make sure that the panel does not get pushed back in due to the creases i can see this happening very easily?
I compared your before and after pictures - what a huge difference! If you can keep it from popping back in, I think I could live with it if I was in your shoes, until you reach the point where you can replace the panel.

You are right about filling in the cavity with foam or something - I know I have read about this in a previous thread. I'll hunt around, it was a good thread.
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Old 05-20-2004, 11:08 AM   #36
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It was a link to the Vintage Airstream site that I saw.

Here ya go:
Quote:
"Here is a before and after shot of a large dent that afflicts many older trailers. Paul Farley, the restorer of this beautiful 1948 Wee-Wind, removed the dent you see with auto body suction cups, and being the perfectionist he is, opened the inside skin and smoothed out the area to a blemish free surface. On such a repair, if the dent wants to pop back in, formed Styrofoam blocking between the skins will hold the outside skin in place."
http://www.vintageairstream.com/rr_topics_dents.html
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Old 05-20-2004, 03:00 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by FireFighter
is he speaking in tongues, that is some pretty in depth stuff. i will try some of those things and see what i can do no matter what happens still looks better than yesterday.
The part I was thinking about was how to use a slapper and working "off the dollies". I assumed you didn't want to go for the full-blown heat-it-with-a-torch stuff.
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Old 05-20-2004, 09:43 PM   #38
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Wow, when all else fails read the directions - I have a 75 service manuel and by golly there are the instructions.

Andy - do think large flat sheets is replaceable by a "handy" do-it-yourselfer?

From what I have learned from this forum and the instructions in the manuel, it looks very doable

Ken
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Old 05-21-2004, 09:31 AM   #39
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Ken.

Yes, if, if, if, "ALL" the directions are followed.

Ask Peter Hausmann, one of the moderators.

Andy
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Old 05-21-2004, 09:48 AM   #40
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Andy

Yes I have talked to Peter H and others about this and am confident to take it on. I had not seen your opinion on this before, so I was curious about what you thought. Since I know you work with this all the time. Thanks alot for responding.

Ken
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Old 05-28-2004, 07:14 PM   #41
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Dent tools

If you want to try working on the dent, I'd suggest that you contact a local music dealer that does dent repair on instruments. He can order you the tools necessary to remove most of the dent. ($200-$300) You will need a curved burnishing tool with a long handle (try Allied Supply, 800 558-3226) and a large dent ball set (N84S,N74) that fit on a rod, a flair roller (Z60-17) for the outside; You may be able to order these from Ferree's Tools, Inc., 800 253-2261 Keep the tools very smooth and use a grease on the inside to reduce friction, and when working on the outside use wax paper between the tool and the skin. The creases will likely show even after the dent has been removed. Work on the inside from the outside of the dent in; having someone on the outside to provide counter pressure will be helpfull otherwise you will stretch the metal in the other direction as well. The 30 hour time estimate is about right. There is a material to patch the plastic panel you removed that will make it like new, after painting; the bond will be stronger than before it was cut. (About $100) Another choice is the dent pullers you can buy from automotive stores but it is likely that with dents like yours, you will have little success. Good luck.
Ernie
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