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Old 08-15-2018, 07:30 PM   #1
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Help! How far to sand on skin?

We recently purchased a 2012 serenity and found corrosion on/under marker lights. Iíve read several threads, but this our first airstream and my first go at fixing corrosion. Needless to say, I donít want to mess it up so Iíve done everything so far by hand ( wet sand 600,1000,1500) using corrosion x. Iím just not sure how far to take the sanding. Does it have to be completely gone? Iíve attached a few pics of where I currently am. Please let me know if this isnít good enough to stop filiform.
Can I or should I use a dremel with nylon brush?
Should I go back with the new gaskets that have a flange so chrome bezel doesnít ride on skin or buy the aluminum bezels and caulk like crazy?

Thanks in advance for your help
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Old 08-16-2018, 09:02 PM   #2
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I would say the best way would be to isolate dissimilar metals. You might consider plastic side markers.
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Old 08-17-2018, 07:54 AM   #3
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Welcome Aboard!! 👍

Matt,

For small areas, (as in your pic) I don't sand at all. I just scrape the filiform to bare metal, (dental scraper), and re-coat.
I prefer a small visible repair to a much larger less visible one.
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Old 08-17-2018, 09:03 AM   #4
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Thank you for the plastic marker suggestion. Unfortunately, Iím unsure where to get those. I did order the newer style gasket which has a flange to keep the chrome bezel off the skin. Iím planning to get them a try prior to investing in the $40 aluminum classic base.
Bob- I seen your handy work and I was hoping for your response. I think Iím at the point of no return now on the 7 market lights Iíve already sanded. I will try the dental pick tool to get the very last of decay out of the small pits and what not. Iím still unsure of the order of operations. Iím also unsure if clear coat alone will bring the sanded site back to a finish close to original?
Can you please let me know if this order sounds correct?
1-Wet sand with wd40 or corrosion x or use dental pic to scrape.
2-Clean with mineral spirits
3-clean with aluminum deoxidizer
4-rinse with distilled water
5-spray clear coat
6-sand with 1500 and distilled h20
7- repeat steps 5 and 6 with 4 coats
8-wash/wax with walbernize

I wasnít sure if I should use and aluminum paint then clear coat or just use cc.
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Old 08-17-2018, 12:32 PM   #5
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Disclaimer...

This photo was taken today...resting. while on the road.

This was NOT a corrosion problem but a 6" section where the Alcoa clear decided to leave. Evident that once gone it is very difficult to match.
It has been prepped and cleaned and has two coats of Nyalic. Note I may decide at some time to brush the bare aluminum to try and get a little closer to the original.

The Filiform latch repair you see in the previous post was done with Stainless paint I did several roof repairs seven years ago and they remain pretty good today.

Bob
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Sorry for the shadows... Before/After
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Old 08-21-2018, 10:41 PM   #6
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Thanks for the help! Well I may have taken a much larger bite than I intended!! I have tried the dental pick tool with little success in removing each and every dark spot, however continued sanding seems to be working. I found a piece of clear coated al from an old pontoon boat that has been a good test piece to sand and spray. I agree that simply applying acrylic clear coat doesnít yield a decent match, so Iím planning to try a ďaluminum galvanizeĒ color from sherwin williams on the test piece.
Do you have a specific color and brand you prefer? Also, do you apply the nyalic as a clear coat on top of a specific color?
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