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Old 09-27-2008, 01:04 PM   #1
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HELP!! does the body of an airstream bulge????

OK I thought the bottom of the body of my AS had slipped of the plywood and frame, Reason being the wall between the kitchen and beds was not all the way to the outside wall.. About 1/2 inch gap. pic bellow....

SO I set up some bracing and jacked up the shell about 1/4 inch and pulled back the inside skin, and saw the body was connected to the frame just fine, nor was there rot in the wood floor..

Plus the inside skin has popped some rivets and pushed a grove in the plywood, like it was cut to long.....

So question is can the body of the airstream start to bulge out a little over the years???

Or can the frame sag on the outsides??? the floor seams pretty level so I don't think this is it!!!!

the body looks Ok from the outside, but I don't think I would notice a 1/2 bulge over the whole side...


Sorry the pic is sideways...
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Old 09-27-2008, 01:11 PM   #2
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Remember, they were all hand-made and rack in side winds; 1/2" does not bother me.
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Old 09-27-2008, 02:29 PM   #3
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My trailer has done the same thing,my wall moved inwards& I had to tap -push,shove it back towards the outer wall.It seems every thing moves a bit ,I removed screws and assorted bits to get the walls back to a semblance ofplumb. That is one of the things I was correcting with my reefer removal.
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Old 09-27-2008, 03:54 PM   #4
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HELP!! does the body of an airstream bulge????

There is one other possibility as a potential cause of bulkhead shifting. Outriggers can fail or become severely weakened by rust resulting in the symptoms you describe. Often, a failed outrigger may push through or cause a dent in the banana wrap, but it doesn't always happen. Two of the curbside outriggers on my Overlander were severely weakened by rust, but didn't damage the banana wraps -- the evidence of the problem was movement of the pantry wall, popped rivets, and a stress crack above the door. Once the outriggers were replaced the pantry wall returned to its original position -- I still have an occasional popped rivet as my axles are in need of replacement.

Kevin
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Old 09-27-2008, 04:19 PM   #5
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Sorry to hijack... What causes the outriggers to poke through the skin?
I think I have that going on right behind the wheel well on the curbside.

Thanks,

Cory
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Old 09-27-2008, 04:34 PM   #6
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Sorry to hijack... What causes the outriggers to poke through the skin?
I think I have that going on right behind the wheel well on the curbside.

Thanks,

Cory
Lack of "proper" running gear balance, causes among other things, the underbelly wrap to flutter, if you wish.

That in turn causes the outriggers to cut the holes that you see.

Andy
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Old 09-27-2008, 04:34 PM   #7
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Problem is (from what I understand banana wrap being) I don't think I have them.. My utter skin goes all the way down under the trailer... But I will be taking the belley pan off and taking a look this fall sometime I also need new axels at some point... They look a little bent in the middle....

Since it looks structurally sound I don't think I am going to worry about it to much right now... as I need to get some patches in the floor...
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Old 09-27-2008, 04:39 PM   #8
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OK I thought the bottom of the body of my AS had slipped of the plywood and frame, Reason being the wall between the kitchen and beds was not all the way to the outside wall.. About 1/2 inch gap. pic bellow....

SO I set up some bracing and jacked up the shell about 1/4 inch and pulled back the inside skin, and saw the body was connected to the frame just fine, nor was there rot in the wood floor..

Plus the inside skin has popped some rivets and pushed a grove in the plywood, like it was cut to long.....

So question is can the body of the airstream start to bulge out a little over the years???

Or can the frame sag on the outsides??? the floor seams pretty level so I don't think this is it!!!!

the body looks Ok from the outside, but I don't think I would notice a 1/2 bulge over the whole side...


Sorry the pic is sideways...
In addition to what overlander64 pointed out, you can have a cracked frame and/or an axle mounting plate.

The cause of furniture being kicked out from the wall, is about 99.999999 percent lack of proper running gear balance.

It may take years to show up, but it will.

I have never heard of furniture being displaced in any Airstream, that was permanently parked, but I have heard of it, seen it, and repaired the causes of it, for over 40 years.

Proper wheel balance, included the hub and drum and the tire and wheel.

Anything short of that, IS NOT a proper balance.

Andy
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Old 09-27-2008, 04:41 PM   #9
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Thanks Andy,

I have looked at your primmer about axles and mine still have positive angle on the arms. I do have a new hub and wheel on one side, I think the road side rear axle is the one. Could that be causing the Flutter? Is there any cheap way to fix it, strapped for cash right now? I know there are new axles in my future, but not this year.

Thanks,

Cory
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Old 09-27-2008, 05:53 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
In addition to what overlander64 pointed out, you can have a cracked frame and/or an axle mounting plate.

The cause of furniture being kicked out from the wall, is about 99.999999 percent lack of proper running gear balance.

It may take years to show up, but it will.

I have never heard of furniture being displaced in any Airstream, that was permanently parked, but I have heard of it, seen it, and repaired the causes of it, for over 40 years.

Proper wheel balance, included the hub and drum and the tire and wheel.

Anything short of that, IS NOT a proper balance.

Andy
How do you reccomend the balance be done, can a tire shop do it with a on vehicle spin balancer. Thanks, John
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Old 09-27-2008, 07:00 PM   #11
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How do you reccomend the balance be done, can a tire shop do it with a on vehicle spin balancer. Thanks, John
Sometimes, a "good" tire shop can do it.

Usually, a "truck" tire shop can do a better job.

Most all tire shops can only balance a tire and wheel.

The old spin balancing can work, but it usually only lasts 3 to 4,000 miles, since a single counter weight is used.

A "very good" balance, uses the heavy spot as a reference, and then places 2 counter weights, 120 degrees from the heavy spot, thus dividing the tire in thirds. That type balancing lasts for at least 10,000 miles, unless the tires get a bald spot from sliding the tires, (brake lockup), or if the axle is out of alignment.

I have been using the two weight counter balance system for over 40 years with great success.

You can see the setup we use, on our web site.

http://www.inlandrv.com/articles/wheel-balancing/

You can click on each photo to enlarge them.

Andy
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