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Old 09-10-2012, 11:57 AM   #15
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If olympic rivets where as strong as Bucked rivets Boeing and Airbus would be using them
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:18 PM   #16
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Hey, I'm just stating what (IIRC) an experienced AS guy said....I don't have any idea. He may have been talking about the alloy as well...not all buck rivets are created equally, I'd bet.

They are somewhat more prone to leaks though.
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Old 09-10-2012, 01:03 PM   #17
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Here is an interesting article on an aerospace forum about the pros and cons of blind versus buck rivets. Where is Aerowood when we need him.

Aeronautic engineering other topics - Blind vs Solid Rivets

Perry
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Old 09-10-2012, 01:14 PM   #18
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Here is an interesting article on an aerospace forum about the pros and cons of blind versus buck rivets. Where is Aerowood when we need him.

Aeronautic engineering other topics - Blind vs Solid Rivets

Perry
Great read, thanks. I certainly get it for CRITICAL applications like aircraft structural components. Does it significantly apply to ASes? Don't get me wrong, I understand the semi-monocoque thing, but do we really know or expect that AS uses aircraft quality driven rivets......I kinda doubt it.
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Old 09-10-2012, 01:31 PM   #19
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The main thing is that the structural connection at the bottom is done right. I sorta like the decorative patch idea if you can come up with something that looks good.

Perry
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Old 09-10-2012, 01:34 PM   #20
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Freeheel,
I feel your pain. The same thing happened to my trailer a few months ago(except I did it myself). Here's my thread: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...ble-93236.html
I sent photos of my buffoonery to the service center @ Jackson Center and they gave me an idea of what it would cost to repair the damage -- they were pretty much right on the money. The insurance adjuster did the same thing, and got the same estimate amount. I felt like such an idiot, but in the end it was not a big deal, just an inconvenience. I went to JC to have the repairs made, since I was in that part of the country anyway, but it would be a long way for you to travel. I honestly can't even tell that my trailer had any damage and I know what to look for -- it is truly as good as new. I don't believe the Airstream repair center where I live could have even come close to making the repairs -- so that will probably be your biggest challenge. At least the guy that hit your Airstream fessed up and didn't leave the scene. Good luck with your repairs -- don't let some dealer gouge you however. They replaced one panel and the cost was a little less than $2500.
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Old 09-10-2012, 01:37 PM   #21
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We hadto have an entire 4'x14' side panel replaced. It was a 12 plus hour job at an Airstream service shop in Ca. about a 4 hour drive from home. The great thing here is that we were invited to stay over in there full hook up area behind their shop. They would come and get the trailer at 7:15 am and return it by 4:30pm. So we would spend a couple of days visiting the local sights We asked to stay an additional night....no problem. I say all of this because perhaps you could plan a springtime trip to an Airstream service center with such hookups. I'm sure many do that. BUT only have this done at an Airstream shop.
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Old 09-10-2012, 01:39 PM   #22
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We hadto have an entire 4'x14' side panel replaced. It was a 12 plus hour job at an Airstream service shop in Ca. about a 4 hour drive from home. The great thing here is that we were invited to stay over in there full hook up area behind their shop. They would come and get the trailer at 7:15 am and return it by 4:30pm. So we would spend a couple of days visiting the local sights We asked to stay an additional night....no problem. I say all of this because perhaps you could plan a springtime trip to an Airstream service center with such hookups. I'm sure many do that. BUT only have this done at an Airstream shop.
Neil
That's exactly how they do it in Jackson Center also. Good to hear there's a place on the West Coast that can make the repairs as well.
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Old 09-10-2012, 01:56 PM   #23
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I am not an aluminum repairman but I have a place where the original owner scraped a place on the side of mine. I sent pictures of to an Airstream "farm" where this family does repair specifically aluminum Airstreams and was told right away that the best way to fix scratched panels was to replace the panel sheet as it is on the trailer. Mine was also along the bottom. So, given that advice, that would mean looking at the panel and following the rivet line top to bottom, side to side. Your rivet line is clear - a flat square section.
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Old 09-10-2012, 02:54 PM   #24
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I estimate $3200. I had a claim (I am in Northern BC) and my insurance paid me to tow it to Langley for repair. HIS insurance company is responsible for the costs, so either they will pay YOU to tow it (usually $1 a km) or THEY can put it on a flatdeck and haul it.

Don't settle for some 'airplane mechanic' unless you are paying for it yourself or know some true genius with aluminum. Get it taken to the place that can fix it properly, because that is what insurance is for. They'll order the exact panel and you won't be able to tell the difference.

Now... no matter how pretty they grind the Olympic rivets, a close inspection will reveal there has been a repair. The alternative is taking apart a whole lot of trailer, and my estimate would go up to $5500 for a 'factory' repair.

This is based on my own nightmare...
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Old 09-10-2012, 03:40 PM   #25
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Cost and weight are an issue with Olympic rivets. I expect like on Airstreams the blind rivets are used in small area for repair.

Perry

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If olympic rivets where as strong as Bucked rivets Boeing and Airbus would be using them
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Old 09-10-2012, 04:24 PM   #26
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Leak Damage

If you've had floor rot due to leaks, there are two ways to check.

If your nose is good, get down on the floor and sniff - the wet rotting plywood has a very strong distinct smell.

The second method involves an Ice Pick. If you have carpet, go around the edge of the carpeting - about 1 inch from the wall, and poke the floor. If there's little to no resistance you have rot! With vinyl, you have to loosen the trim band, roll the vinyl back and inspect. Black Stinky - BAD!

Under a shower? You might be able to peek under there with a strong flashlight through an access hole - for the pipes or water pump, or furnace vents if your trailer is large enough to have a vented furnace. Barring that, drop that part of the belly pan and look at the bottom side of the floor.

Paula

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Old 09-10-2012, 05:28 PM   #27
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You can plan on $$$.the guy that scraped our side had to put out $16K to get it properly respired. I am sure his insurance co. was not happy. Oh, and make sure the estimate is done by an Authorized AIRSTREAM dealer as our 1st estimate was by a local ins. estimator and he figured $3000. which sure was a long way from the actual $16K. Good Luck!
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Old 09-10-2012, 05:34 PM   #28
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Most "old airplane mechanic" have much more sheet metal experience than any Airstream tech.
Look At the regular practice of cutting out a panel and overlay another and popping rivets(Airstream's repair) A A&P mechanic has to sign off on his work and is responsible for that work FOREVER. If his repair falls off or has rear end separation you don't pull off on the side of the road and call a tow truck.
I mentioned this as the owner described in his first post that he was quite a way from a dealer that handles sheet metal repairs. Calgary is along way to Jackson Center. This was a suggestion not an ultimatum.
I know an Old Airplane Mechanic will do my necessary repairs I have more confidence in his work than an Airstream Dealers tech.
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