Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 03-02-2016, 06:19 PM   #15
2 Rivet Member
 
1968 26' Overlander
Manheim , Pennsylvania
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 83
Blog Entries: 1
Hey Supergrafx, keep your head up! That doesn't really look too serious. My '68 has some spots that look a little etched and old. But think about it, it is old! My advice is to try washing it out on the inside, either by hand with a brillow pad, or spray it down with solvent and carefully use a pressure washer. A lot of that on the replaced panel looks more like Mold and mineral deposits from your photos! Water and grime seeped in there through the Olympic rivets and then soaked your insulation. It just sat there. Try cleaning it off and even hit it with some sand paper. Not too hard, but it's going to be inside your walls, so you will never see scratches or swirls on it ever again after you put it back together. I would definitely replace the Olympic rivets. Also, on your rear of the trailer, your frame is most likely rotting out from the rear panel leaks and probably tail lights leaking. I would pull that one off and rerivet it new and tight with good sealer. Or it will just ruin your floor again when the vulcum fails in a few years. You might need to have a new cross brace fabricated and welded in to secure the tail section. Are you doing a frame on or off restoration? You will be even more disheartened when you pull up that rear floor board and see a rusty frame. Just keep your head up. One step at a time. I think your exterior looks like clear coat wearing out. Strip a panel and see what it does. There are plenty of threads on stripping and polishing on here. I have read a lot of these forums, and some of them take YEARS from start to finish.

It's a fun learning process and everyone on here has lots of opinions and pointers. Good luck! Let us know how it turns out for you.
__________________

__________________
SonOfAnder
'68 Overlander

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...te-145553.html
SonOfAnder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-2016, 06:49 PM   #16
4 Rivet Member
 
rugjenkins's Avatar
 
1975 Argosy 28
Springville , Alabama
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 424
Nothing to be depressed about. Most of your problems with the trailer you would fix them anyway. Almost all rear ends need fixed and are shot. You are going to replace all the Olympic rivets already. The interior exterior skins will be a easy fix. Most frames and floors are replaced anyway. Panels are fun to replace. Keep your head up, focus on each little step. Plus you have a great trailer and when your done it will be awesome!
Btw, one of the coolest airstream trailers is painted- my opinion of course. But done worry your trailer will shine like a mirror😎
__________________

__________________
Matt
rugjenkins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2016, 04:07 PM   #17
Rivet Master
 
Foiled Again's Avatar
 
2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
Vintage Kin Owner
Virginia Beach , Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,882
OK I'm not a restorer - I paid to have my Avion done (too many years with "that old house" to want to ever do it again). But I have read a lot of renovation threads, so here is what my semi-senile brain remembers.

Do NOT use brillo - use aluminum wool. Some of the RUST corrosion is caused by dissimilar metals - iron or steel and Aluminum. You don't want to leave little brillo shavings all over your Airstream. Of course you CAN use the 3M pads which are non-metalic. If you do have bracing that is steel and you want to reuse it, then you might consider having it powder coated, or coated with the material that is used for spray in bed liner to protect the aluminum it abuts.

Most people replace their rusty old screws with stainless steel ones - and dab them in vulkem or sikaflex before screwing them tight - just to eliminate both initial and rust related leaks later.

Do seal everything on the outside, then set the Airstream out in a howling storm and watch for leaks. In addition to the seams a loose rivet (or 20) can let in a surprising amount of water. Capt. Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure is great for leaky rivets (but you'll go insane doing the whole roof. Be sure to use some blue painters tape to mark every rivet that lets the two drops of the Cure slip through. Let it dry, then hit those again - almost none will leak on the second application.

Don't be TOO disgusted when you find a vent hole or something else that looks like it was cut by beavers - even occasionally finding a glob of sealant that covers a hole that the flange of the fan, etc. didn't cover. If it's not in a highly visible place, make a patch to cover the void. If it is in a visible place - consider a decorative patch - like a star or a shield or I even saw one Canadian who'd put a large Maple Leaf shaped patch over a boo-boo on the rear lower center panel. Looked like decor, not like "oops".
__________________
Today is a gift, that's why they call it the present.
Foiled Again is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2016, 05:11 PM   #18
Rivet Master
 
Aerowood's Avatar

 
1971 21' Globetrotter
Arvada , Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,840
Quote:
Originally Posted by Supergrafx77 View Post
According to this rebuild thread by Aerowood, he replaced the rear panel that had such corrosion and in another thread, recommended someone else replace theirs as well. Mine seems worse than Aerowood's, so I am guessing I need to do this as well. What is a little confusing is that Aerowood replaced the two rear curved corner panels as well for reasons that I'm also guessing were due to some small amount of corrosion that had spread to these from the main rear. But maybe this was unnecessary since as the thread proceeds, Aerowood goes about re-skinning almost the entire trailer.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f416...e-26902-4.html

Do you think that all the skins I've posted are compromised and need to be replaced? I'm pretty sure the one in the back is gone (maybe I'm wrong?), but I'm hoping I can at least salvage the elongated exterior panel that needs to be buck riveted. That piece of skin is huge and looks like a huge job to fab a new one. Just not sure how to proceed.

I replaced the rear panel due to corrosion, the corner panels due to dents, the curbside panel because it had been previously replaced with annealed aluminum and the street side because it had been spliced with an incorrect alloy.

I would suggest you replace the rear panel and then remove the blind rivets on the picture, clean up the corrosion and re-seal and solid rivet back together. Your trailer looks about normal.
Aerowood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2016, 09:25 PM   #19
2 Rivet Member
 
Can of beans's Avatar
 
1972 31' Sovereign
Silverton , Oregon
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 86
Oh man, I think it's a total loss. Now, if you roll up your tambour and leave it on your doorstep, I'll have someone take care of it for you .

Just kidding about the total loss, my trailer looks just like that. I'm serious about the tambour, I just need your address....
__________________
Can of beans is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2016, 08:25 AM   #20
2 Rivet Member
 
1968 26' Overlander
Manheim , Pennsylvania
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 83
Blog Entries: 1
@foiledagain... Good call on the Brillo pad! I actually used a 3M pad myself.
__________________
SonOfAnder
'68 Overlander

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...te-145553.html
SonOfAnder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2016, 09:26 AM   #21
1 Rivet Member
 
1971 23' Safari
BERWYN HEIGHTS , Maryland
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood View Post
I would suggest you replace the rear panel and then remove the blind rivets on the picture, clean up the corrosion and re-seal and solid rivet back together. Your trailer looks about normal.
Thank you for the advise. I will do just that.
On another note (and sorry for not bumping this thread with a quicker response, as I was working on the Safari pretty much the whole weekend), I found this thread concerning using 3M Aluminum Oxide Imperial Wetordry sandpaper on the external skins via 320, 400, 600, 800, and 1000 grit followed by polishing with F7 Nuvite polish that talks about tackling the external filiform corrosion issues:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...n-42083-5.html
I picked two right hand corner panels, got a bucket of water, got some 320 aluminum oxide paper to get going, wrapped the paper around a sponge, and started at it. Hopefully this is not the wrong thing to do, and hopefully even more, my technique in doing so this weekend was not wrong.
I sanded of course in one one direction (the rivets and skin seams I have to go back to with perhaps a plastic scraper/sand paper as they posed a challenge of sanding out completely with the sponge/sand paper technique).
I assumed that I should get most of the worming out with the 320 grit, and later only lightly sand over with the 400, 600, 800, 1000, followed by the F7 Nuvite polish. Hopefully I didn't take too much of the Alclad finish off the exterior as I was somewhat aggressive in that I wet sanded with the 320 until most of the worming of the filiform became almost invisible to the naked eye.
I'm taking Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday off this week so that I can continue working (I still need to pick up a quality polisher, perhaps a Makita and some Nuvite F7, as well as the extra grit sandpapers: 400, 600, 800 and 1000). Hopefully on the right path here? Before going any further, I thought to stop at the two panels I already sanded offHere are some pics:


__________________
Supergrafx77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2016, 11:41 PM   #22
3 Rivet Member
 
Tbeck11931's Avatar
 
1990 34' Limited
2013 23' FB Flying Cloud
Conroe , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 167
You may want to take a trip to the factory in Ohio.
Bring along a list and pictures of things you may need.
You can take a tour learn a lot about your Airstream and last but not least order important parts you may need.
I would also suggest you install new channels around the window area.
Seems like to me the channel was cut away and left out when the new window was installed.
__________________
Tbeck11931 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2016, 03:49 AM   #23
Rivet Master
Commercial Member
 
vinstream's Avatar
 
1962 19' Globetrotter
1963 19' Globetrotter
1961 19' Globetrotter
Wheat Ridge , Colorado
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 624
Images: 2
I must first say that I'm what is described as a Commercial Vender on this Forum and as such I am limited by what can be said. Your Airstream's damage is the exact reason that I have spoken up against other Commercial Vender's work, which I guess is a NO No according to the rules of this Forum... Many times I have spoken out when I see work that is incorrect just to have my posts deleted and be warned for speaking out, I guess, negative about others... But your Post is the very reason that I have called out what I think is work that was done incorrectly. The use of Olympic style rivets, for the these types of repairs, were done to your trailer were incorrect and this is why you have mass water destruction to your trailer, if the repairs were done correctly your trailer would of not have damage this extensive. I hope that others out there will see by your pictures posted and start raising the questions on the the use of Olympic rivets in stead of Solid rivets (how your trailer was constructed) on major panel repairs!!!!
__________________
www.VINSTREAM.com
Wheat Ridge, Colorado
WBCCI # 1962
Instagram #Vinstream
vinstream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2016, 06:35 AM   #24
Airstream Driver
 
PeterH-Airstreamer's Avatar

 
1997 30' Excella
1983 31' Airstream310
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 3,373
Images: 51
I am not a commercial vendor, just an Airstream fanatic who has restored many Airstreams over the decades.
Not of much value, but this is my opinion about your panel repair with olympic rivets:
its not the use of Olympic rivets that caused your issues, but rather the incorrect use. (see picture below for correct use) I do not see any sealer oozing out of the rivets and there may not even be any tape or sealer under the seams.
Being advised to now replace the olympic rivets with the smaller size buck rivets is IMHO bad advise, which will lead to even more water intrusion. Just drilling the olympic rivets even on a perfect day will in many cases lead to enlarged holes, causing more problems.
Anyone who has taking panels apart on an Airstream, knows that no sealer or tape was used during assembly.
I would do like the factory does, clean the inside as good as you can and seal the rivets and seams with a high quality polyurethane sealer like vulkem 116 from the inside.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	rivetbacks.jpg
Views:	44
Size:	198.2 KB
ID:	258844  
__________________
1990 29' Excella Trailer
1996 Airstream B190
1997 30' Excella Trailer
AIR #13
PeterH-Airstreamer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2016, 08:56 AM   #25
1 Rivet Member
 
1971 23' Safari
BERWYN HEIGHTS , Maryland
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tbeck11931 View Post
I would also suggest you install new channels around the window area.
Seems like to me the channel was cut away and left out when the new window was installed.
There are a few numerous vertical channels that look like they may have been cut at a 45 degree angle and several pieces of interior panel cuts placed in between the vertical channel and exterior panel on several places. I'll make sure to get some photos of this up as I was looking skeptically at these areas already without mentioning it before on this thread. The line of screws above that the side window that I posted already, are the screws holding the awning rail. Are you talking about this horizontal channel or the vertical ones that look cut at the 45 degree marks with wedges of aluminum sandwiched between them and the exterior skin?
__________________
Supergrafx77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2016, 09:04 AM   #26
1 Rivet Member
 
1971 23' Safari
BERWYN HEIGHTS , Maryland
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinstream View Post
I must first say that I'm what is described as a Commercial Vender on this Forum and as such I am limited by what can be said. Your Airstream's damage is the exact reason that I have spoken up against other Commercial Vender's work, which I guess is a NO No according to the rules of this Forum... Many times I have spoken out when I see work that is incorrect just to have my posts deleted and be warned for speaking out, I guess, negative about others... But your Post is the very reason that I have called out what I think is work that was done incorrectly. The use of Olympic style rivets, for the these types of repairs, were done to your trailer were incorrect and this is why you have mass water destruction to your trailer, if the repairs were done correctly your trailer would of not have damage this extensive. I hope that others out there will see by your pictures posted and start raising the questions on the the use of Olympic rivets in stead of Solid rivets (how your trailer was constructed) on major panel repairs!!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer View Post
I am not a commercial vendor, just an Airstream fanatic who has restored many Airstreams over the decades.
Not of much value, but this is my opinion about your panel repair with olympic rivets:
its not the use of Olympic rivets that caused your issues, but rather the incorrect use. (see picture below for correct use) I do not see any sealer oozing out of the rivets and there may not even be any tape or sealer under the seams.
Being advised to now replace the olympic rivets with the smaller size buck rivets is IMHO bad advise, which will lead to even more water intrusion. Just drilling the olympic rivets even on a perfect day will in many cases lead to enlarged holes, causing more problems.
Anyone who has taking panels apart on an Airstream, knows that no sealer or tape was used during assembly.
I would do like the factory does, clean the inside as good as you can and seal the rivets and seams with a high quality polyurethane sealer like vulkem 116 from the inside.
I've already gone about purchasing the buck rivet kit at VTS.
The kit comes with the 5/32 modified brazier rivets.
If drilling out the (5/32 pop rivets?) with the 5/32 #21 drill bit attached to the rivet remover tool, will the 5/32 modified rivets that VTS sells not work?
__________________
Supergrafx77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2016, 11:22 AM   #27
1 Rivet Member
 
1971 23' Safari
BERWYN HEIGHTS , Maryland
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 19
I just called VTS, and they said something to the degree that if I drilled out the blind rivets with 5/32 which are probably 5/32 size, I would have to probably replace them with perhaps 3/16 rivets. Does this seem right?

I did a quick google search and came across these two links(one link saying brazier head, not modified brazier head, whereas the second link specifies "modified brazier head," both soft and hard available, so not sure what that means or if there is any difference)?:

http://www.bylerrivet.com/products/i...t.aspx?cat=427

http://www.bylerrivet.com/products/i...t.aspx?cat=426


https://www.zoro.com/value-brand-riv...Q&gclsrc=aw.ds
__________________
Supergrafx77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-16-2016, 11:47 AM   #28
Rivet Master
Commercial Member
 
vinstream's Avatar
 
1962 19' Globetrotter
1963 19' Globetrotter
1961 19' Globetrotter
Wheat Ridge , Colorado
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 624
Images: 2
For the record the reason Olympic rivets fail in body panel replacements have nothing to do with how they are sealed or not sealed... Olympic rivets are NOT a structural rivet. As your trailers goes down the road it moves much like how a airplane wing does in flight... This movement losses the Olympic rivets up to such a degree that in many cases they start to fail and come apart like a zipper. Solid rivets will not do this and when done right are water proof. Yes, drilling out the olympic rivet will make the hole size bigger but they were drilled out larger than what the solid rivets were from the factory, because the Olympic are made 3/16 not smaller. So replacing them with 3/16 solid rivets will work.. Yes some will be a tad undersized but will fill that void or hole when you buck them in place because they expand into the hole size and mushroom on the back side. The VTS rivets are slightly softer than the Blazer rivets (no longer available) and will work great for your repair.
__________________

__________________
www.VINSTREAM.com
Wheat Ridge, Colorado
WBCCI # 1962
Instagram #Vinstream
vinstream is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
All kinds of cool Airstream gifts. timmaah Airstream Lifestyle 6 12-04-2015 10:12 PM
Newbie with a used + neglected 75 sovereign with all kinds of problems FunTimesWoo Exterior Restoration Forum 0 07-02-2012 07:10 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:04 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.