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Old 04-19-2005, 10:28 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by 87MH
Bucking conventional soft aluminum rivets is cheap and easy - the downside is it takes two people that are able to work together as a team, and, of course, you have to be able to get at the backside of the rivet to buck it.
Are you saying that you do not need to get to the back of the rivet with the Olympic style rivets?
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Old 04-19-2005, 01:10 PM   #16
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Olympic rivets are the standard repair rivet used when you cannot get to both sides of the repair. It's a pretty heavy duty rivet that opens up much the way a drywall anchor does when you pull it tight.

They do leave a small stem though and that is what the shaver does. It smooths out the stem almost makes it invisable. The rivet then closely matches an original rivet.

One comment on drilling out external rivets. I think by far the best way is to chisel the head off and not drill it out. Once the head is off you can easily remove the pannel or window frame. Then chisel or dremal cut the remaining stems off flush with the body. When you go to put back your replacement rivets you use the original hole as a guide to drill out for your olympic rivets.

I replaced about 80+ rivets this way and it works great. Drilling could walk and end up messing up the frame or peice that you want to keep by elonging the hole out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bambi's Dad
Are you saying that you do not need to get to the back of the rivet with the Olympic style rivets?
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Old 04-19-2005, 01:30 PM   #17
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One comment on drilling out external rivets. I think by far the best way is to chisel the head off and not drill it out.
You are a better man than I. I can't chisel the heads off without either making the hole oblong and/or scratching the surrounding surface. I made several attempts using a sharpened scraper.

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Old 04-19-2005, 02:06 PM   #18
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I wouldn't want to think about trying to chisel the heads off of rivets on anything that I wouldn't want to mess up because I am sure I would end up with a mess.

To help keep the drill bit from walking off of the rivet heads I would suggest using a small spring loaded center punch to indent the heads before drilling.

I have an 18 volt Dewalt that I have put to hard use from time to time putting in 2 1/2" to 3 1/2" wood screws into pressure treated wood. At this rate a battery charge would last about 1 hour. This worked out well as the recharge rate for the spare battery was about 1 hour as well and I could swap them out and carry on. For recharging the batteries when there wasn't a regular power source available I would use a small (500w) inverter either plugged into my truck or a portable jump start unit.

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Old 04-19-2005, 02:18 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by dbm04F250
I wouldn't want to think about trying to chisel the heads off of rivets on anything that I wouldn't want to mess up because I am sure I would end up with a mess.
Try it, you'll like it

I got the advice from a well known AS service guy named Charlie Burke. The technique works great for me.

Everyone has their comfort level, best to stay within that!
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Old 04-19-2005, 02:25 PM   #20
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Thanks Tim!

What tools do you use to chisel the heads off?
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Old 04-19-2005, 02:30 PM   #21
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A quick take on some of the suggestions from my experience:

-Not sure about chiselling, never tried it that way.
-For me, the Aircraft Spruce tool was a total waste of money (maybe I got a defective set, but I tried again and felt ripped off when Aircraft Spruce wouldn't take it back ),
-The spring loaded center punch tip really works !

Mary
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Old 04-19-2005, 02:43 PM   #22
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I just did one yesterday as a matter of fact...

I use an old wood chisel and hammer. You line the chisel parrallel to the body and as you hit you can see it slice through the head. Takes half a dozen hits or so, but it shears it off cleanly.

Each of my front windows have about 40 rivets apeice. I could not imagine trying to drill straight enought to remove them without walking all over the place.

The chisel method cleanly removed the heads and the window frame came off easily. Then all the shafts needed to be trimmed flush. Leaving the shaft part of the rivet in is actually a good thing as your holes may not line up perfectly when you put your window or body peice back if you drilled all the way through using the drill method.

I still need to clean up the vulkem around these, but the rivets shown were all removed with a chisel. The left ones were shaved and the right ones were not shaved yet...



Quote:
Originally Posted by Bambi's Dad
Thanks Tim!

What tools do you use to chisel the heads off?
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Old 04-19-2005, 11:49 PM   #23
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Which shaver did you use ?
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Old 04-20-2005, 12:01 AM   #24
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I'm not sure as I just borrowed it.

It looks like the one airstream dreams sales.

Quote:
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Which shaver did you use ?
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Old 04-20-2005, 12:36 AM   #25
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Ahh ok cool. I am not close to that stage yet. Just planning ahead !
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