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Old 02-10-2008, 10:17 AM   #15
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Sounds like I'm in the running at least then.
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Old 05-09-2008, 06:22 PM   #16
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Knowing just enough to be dangerous.

Hi, thought I would tie up this thread with what I ended up doing. After considering lots of valid reasons from both sides with regards to Olympic vs. Buck, including thru advice from the Airstream factory itself , I decided, for my own reasons to replace the Olympics with the Buck rivet. " Buck it ", I thought " just do a bit each day and you'll be there in no time". The reason I changed them was simply because I could. And sometime soon, that option would have dissappeared behind the interior skin as it went on. I would really like to think that the Sovereign will still be around in another 40 years or so, and that the buck rivets will help that happen.
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Old 05-09-2008, 06:48 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petethefeet
Hi, thought I would tie up this thread with what I ended up doing. After considering lots of valid reasons from both sides with regards to Olympic vs. Buck, including thru advice from the Airstream factory itself , I decided, for my own reasons to replace the Olympics with the Buck rivet. " Buck it ", I thought " just do a bit each day and you'll be there in no time". The reason I changed them was simply because I could. And sometime soon, that option would have dissappeared behind the interior skin as it went on. I would really like to think that the Sovereign will still be around in another 40 years or so, and that the buck rivets will help that happen.
Yeeowza, Pete! Mighty fine.
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Old 05-09-2008, 07:34 PM   #18
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Good for you Pete. You are doing it right in my opinion There are many opinions on the "right way" you chose to do it as it originally was done. I would send you karma if I could...
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Old 05-09-2008, 07:55 PM   #19
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Good for you Pete!

You're right.. once you get that interior skin back on, you've lost the chance. Now you can tow knowing that things are correct. As to Vulkem making things stronger... not so sure about that.. just that it makes it sealed. Good on ya for bucking them. We talked about Bucking on last nights show too! One day, we have to bring our Sovereigns together. Very nice trailer.
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Old 05-09-2008, 08:05 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petethefeet
I decided, for my own reasons to replace the Olympics with the Buck rivet...
Hey, I get to quote myself here, I also meant to say that just because anyone is "pro" something or other, does not mean they are automatically anti anything else.
Pete
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Old 05-09-2008, 08:33 PM   #21
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If you heard

If you heard last night's VAP episode, I stated just that Shari - each situation has to be taken into account. We're Olympic'ing a small panel on the Caravel.. but I'm glad the three panels we did on the SOTR are bucked since we tore her all the way down.

SYDTR!

Rob
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Old 05-10-2008, 01:54 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by robandzoe
One day, we have to bring our Sovereigns together. Very nice trailer.

Thanks Rob, I have admired your own Sovereign for some time myself, they would make quite a picture. As for getting them together, ummm, mate, hows about I meet you half ways, I'm not totally sure but I think that makes it the island of Guam!!

I was wanting to ask another question here, and I realise it is all relative to what you begin with, but broadly speaking, say, for example, one were to rebuild a vintage 30 foot trailer from the ground up, is there more work in the inside of a trailer or the outside of a trailer. I'm just curious to know whether I am nearing half way on this project or not.

Pete.
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Old 05-10-2008, 06:27 AM   #23
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when you go camping, that is the half way point... all those little details add up to a lot of time.
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Old 05-10-2008, 06:33 AM   #24
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when you go camping, that is the half way point... all those little details add up to a lot of time.
I can attest to that. We got 90% done in a few months, we are at 92% now, after nearly a year.
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Old 05-10-2008, 06:53 AM   #25
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More inside

I would state that there is more on the inside of the trailer.. all the things that take time and planning are inside the trailer. Zolatone, flooring, cabinets, electric, plumbing, heating, appliances, interior decorations, seals, locks, faucets, hardware... may I go on and on. I see New Zealand... well, we'll just have to meet in a virtual rally! Check out my latest pictures from this past week.
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Old 05-10-2008, 12:01 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petethefeet
Hi, thought I would tie up this thread with what I ended up doing. After considering lots of valid reasons from both sides with regards to Olympic vs. Buck, including thru advice from the Airstream factory itself , I decided, for my own reasons to replace the Olympics with the Buck rivet. " Buck it ", I thought " just do a bit each day and you'll be there in no time". The reason I changed them was simply because I could. And sometime soon, that option would have dissappeared behind the interior skin as it went on. I would really like to think that the Sovereign will still be around in another 40 years or so, and that the buck rivets will help that happen.
I forgot to mention a shell failure that you should fix.

Hopefully the inside is still gutted.

The shell in your model, above the windows forward of the door, has a great tendency to fatigue crack.

The fix is to double up the main bow section from the inside of the shell.

Adding stiffeners to both the front and rear side of those two windows, adds enough strength to avoid that problem.

The next trick is to have an aluminum material as thick as the main bows, but also contoured to the shape of the shell.

Adding some horizontal stringers above, between and below those two windows will also help. Buck riveting them to the added and present main bows is essential.

The cause of the problem is the weakness of the shell between the entrance door and station "0" which is the first main bow, is the 2 large windows.

Buck riveting those pieces in place is recommended.

Andy
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Old 05-10-2008, 03:30 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
I forgot to mention a shell failure that you should fix.

Hopefully the inside is still gutted.

The shell in your model, above the windows forward of the door, has a great tendency to fatigue crack.

The fix is to double up the main bow section from the inside of the shell.

Adding stiffeners to both the front and rear side of those two windows, adds enough strength to avoid that problem.

The next trick is to have an aluminum material as thick as the main bows, but also contoured to the shape of the shell.

Adding some horizontal stringers above, between and below those two windows will also help. Buck riveting them to the added and present main bows is essential.

The cause of the problem is the weakness of the shell between the entrance door and station "0" which is the first main bow, is the 2 large windows.

Buck riveting those pieces in place is recommended.

Andy
Bugger, and here's me thinking I was getting somewhere! Couple more years to go by the sound of things.

Andy, yet again, my thanks to you for your constructive advice, although I am in need of getting up to speed with the terminology.

Firstly, yes (thankfully by the sounds of it), the trailer remains unlined on the interior. Where you refer to the "main bow section", am I correct in taking that term as what I would call the ribs fore and aft of the windows in front of the door?
In the attached pics, the rib running directly between the door and the windows ahead of the door is actually curtailed, then offset to run down between the windows on the opposite side ( factory ). As I see it, the roof panel would be loaded in that offset area.
As for materials, just off the top of my head, I could fabricate and scribe some flat ali' to "flitch " onto the side of the existing ribs, doubling the joins of the flat with another flitch with good laps. I feel like I have an intimate relationship with every square inch of the skin of the trailer after the whole polishing episode, should I be looking anywhere in particular for evidence of this fault?
Should the reinforcement be carried on through to the opposing windows side?

Pete
This feels like such a steep learning curve for me.
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Old 05-10-2008, 04:16 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petethefeet
Bugger, and here's me thinking I was getting somewhere! Couple more years to go by the sound of things.

Andy, yet again, my thanks to you for your constructive advice, although I am in need of getting up to speed with the terminology.

Firstly, yes (thankfully by the sounds of it), the trailer remains unlined on the interior. Where you refer to the "main bow section", am I correct in taking that term as what I would call the ribs fore and aft of the windows in front of the door?
In the attached pics, the rib running directly between the door and the windows ahead of the door is actually curtailed, then offset to run down between the windows on the opposite side ( factory ). As I see it, the roof panel would be loaded in that offset area.
As for materials, just off the top of my head, I could fabricate and scribe some flat ali' to "flitch " onto the side of the existing ribs, doubling the joins of the flat with another flitch with good laps. I feel like I have an intimate relationship with every square inch of the skin of the trailer after the whole polishing episode, should I be looking anywhere in particular for evidence of this fault?
Should the reinforcement be carried on through to the opposing windows side?

Pete
This feels like such a steep learning curve for me.
Pete.

Don't give up the ship, er, the Airstream.

So far your doing great.

There is a learning curve to the terminology, but once you learn, it will stick with you better than your name.

The main bows are the ribs, if you wish.

The windows on the door side are the problem, not the road side.

The additions to the main bows forward of the door, only need to go maybe one foot or so, above the top of the wind.

What your trying to do it make a figure 8 from the floor to above the top of the window, forward of the door.

Hope this helps.

Andy
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