Dealer Skin Replacement ?

[franklyfrank]

Originally Posted by helwigc

One thing to consider even if you have the factory replace the panel it will not be as good of a job as when it was built. No one can put it back exactly like it was. If the damage is minor try and live with it.

I spoke with the people at the factory about that.
The only difference is the rivets they use. Original construction they use hard rivets since they can work the other side. Hard rivets will last two lifetimes.
The rivets they use on replacement panel installations will last one lifetime :-).
All else is exactly as the original construction.
They will do either however to do the hard rivets the interior needs to be stripped. So a 30' Classic lower panel conventional method is about $ 6,000
with the hard rivets turns into $ 16,000.

[Silvertwinkie]

There are both good and bad Airstream dealers all over the country and that list of good dealers gets even smaller for the heavy lifting type stuff like panel overlay or replacement. There was a good Airstream sheetmetal place down in Texas many years ago, but I can't recall who they were, but that was easily 10 years ago.



You are nowhere near the factory, but the factory is where I'd take it for something like this. I've seen their work on a number on occasions in terms of panel replacement and the work is just second to none. One was a Classic that danced with a guardrail and tore up the length of the curbside and when they were done, the pics I saw you would be hard pressed to tell there ever was ANY damage.

[TBRich]

If it's not possible to get to the Factory for the repairs you seek, try Oasis RV in Tucson. We have had major repairs done at Oasis, including panel replacement...you'd never know there was damage .. Oasis is great and while the place is nothing to look at, they really know their stuff ... Airstreams inside and out...at least talk to them.

[featherbedder]

Originally Posted by franklyfrank

I spoke with the people at the factory about that.
The only difference is the rivets they use. Original construction they use hard rivets since they can work the other side. Hard rivets will last two lifetimes.
The rivets they use on replacement panel installations will last one lifetime :-).
All else is exactly as the original construction.
They will do either however to do the hard rivets the interior needs to be stripped. So a 30' Classic lower panel conventional method is about $ 6,000
with the hard rivets turns into $ 16,000.

What is dif. in 1 lifetime or 2 lifetime of rivets? I had left rear corner replaced in 1979 after snow plow backed into it, now 39 yrs. later still can't see dif. in replaced panel and original. I no of dif. between olympics and bucked. I have shaver and olympics and have used a lot of them.

[airwoody]

Originally Posted by KelloggKid

Earlier this summer I managed to jackknife our Bambi and put a dent in the curb side front just below the window. I didn't even notice it for 3 days but now it really bugs me. My dealer (Airstream of Spokane) is awesome to work with and I would trust them to do a panel replacement. Going to the factory is out of the question due to distance. While I know the dealer would do a wonderful job I am concerned about breaking the seal that was put on the inside after the outer shell was assembled. My dilemma is that I'm also concerned that this dent, although hardly noticeable, will have a serious effect on resale value down the road. If I have the panel replaced then my insurance takes the hit. If I leave it as is then when we sell/trade the unit we take the hit.

Not sure if I should leave it well enough alone or have the panel replaced. Thoughts?

Did the same thing - decided to keep the $8300 as it was almost 10% of the price of trailer which is a guaranteed recap of cost. Didn't want to open the can of worms to other problems if the repair wasn't done correctly

[lwp99]

Our 2005 25'Safari was attacked by a cattle guard last year. Required a new curbside body panel and 2 new axles (with brakes, shocks, etc). The AS dealer in Albuquerque, NM did a great job! They're a small dealership, so it took longer than one might expect, but the work was first rate - it looks like new.

[xisme2]

I am wondering about replacing just a portion of one exterior skin panel. I put a crease from just past the door about 3' long in the upper panel The recommended fix is to replace the entire panel, which among other removals, involves taking the door out. I'm wondering whether one couldn't just cut the affected panel out to the closest rib and rivet in a new section. True it would not "look" like the original, but is that really so important. I live in the NW and taking it back to JC would really be a lot of trouble, and I'm not convinced that anyone but JC can get the door back in absolutely correctly. Also, it would be a heck of a lot cheaper!

[BIGED52]

Originally Posted by xisme2

I am wondering about replacing just a portion of one exterior skin panel. I put a crease from just past the door about 3' long in the upper panel The recommended fix is to replace the entire panel, which among other removals, involves taking the door out. I'm wondering whether one couldn't just cut the affected panel out to the closest rib and rivet in a new section. True it would not "look" like the original, but is that really so important. I live in the NW and taking it back to JC would really be a lot of trouble, and I'm not convinced that anyone but JC can get the door back in absolutely correctly. Also, it would be a heck of a lot cheaper!

xisme2, If you are not worried about future resale value or original look issues you can do what ever you like ! After all it is your trailer. The biggest issue to deal with is getting the replacement segment to seal properly and getting the rivet line to be uniform and look good when completed. Once the replacement panel is adapted to fit and the correct rivet holes are drilled you must remember that the joining of the exterior panels will not be buck riveted as the original section was. Once the new portion of skin is installed you won't really be able to test the seal of it to the existing skin sections. I might suggest at all (new) seams before you caulk the joints to use Capt. Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure to wick into the seams to insure against water intrusion before you use Acryl - R on the seams. Hope This Helps, Good Luck! Ed

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Originally Posted by DAHBABY

The factory did say that the aluminum could not be repaired because the deep nature of the scratch...and that is why we are even contemplating replacement. Attachment 322307

Hi, I damaged my trailer worse than that; I cleaned the area and covered the damage with a decal.