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Old 03-23-2009, 01:05 PM   #15
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1970 23' Safari
2005 30' Classic
1986 31' Sovereign
Lorain , Ohio
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How I should have torn out the inside......

Suggested sequence for stripping the rear interior of a 1970 Safari with curbside rear gaucho and streetside rear wet bath

1. Empty trailer as much as possible.
2. Remove carpet if possible.
3. Spend some time to protect fabrics, woodwork, and anything else that will piss you off if it gets damaged.
4. Remove window screens in work area.
5. Remove overhead cabinetry. This will involve pulling stables and exposing hidden and buried screws. You may be required to take apart more than you planned due to having to reach hidden fasteners.
6. Remove gaucho and lower cabinetry.
7. Disconnect and remove vanity sink. This may involve cutting some plumbing. All of my drain lines were glued together. Leave enough room at your cuts for installation of a coupler.
8. Pull beltline trim in bathroom starting at one end. Be careful, this is brittle.
9. Remove every screw and rivet you see.
10. Disconnect and remove vent and toilet paper holder.
11. Carefully use a razor knife to cut away all silicon and caulk.
12. Remove plywood bathroom wall between closet and rear. Disconnect electrical as req’d
13.. Upper half of bathroom should be able to be removed. Don’t force it. If it doesn’t come out somewhat easily, you probably missed a fastener. Take your time! Mine fit between the cabinets and out the door.
14. Disconnect & remove toilet.
15. Write nasty letter to whoever designed toilet mount.
16. Go buy a “drain key” at Lowes for $13 to remove drain cover.
17. Spend the next two hours getting 8 screws out of toilet flange. Feel free to type in “toilet flange” into airforums search engine for pages of info.
18. Bottom half of bathroom shell should now be free. Repeat notes on step 12.
19. Start drilling out every rivet and removing every screw in any wall panel forward of the first bulkhead. Don’t attempt to pursue “saving” a rivet. Just take them out. Your life will be easier.
20. Pull every panel you can.
21. I’ll skip the “Endcap Challenge” until another day…… This step deserves its own post!
22. Remove insulation. I filled a couple of garbage bags. I probably can reuse most of it.

A random thought: keep some spring clamps and duct tape handy. You will have lot’s of electrical lines hanging around.

These steps should get you far enough along. Further descriptions would include cutting out floor and the obligatory picture of you standing on pavement while in your trailer.

My pic will be posted soon!
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Old 01-21-2010, 02:49 PM   #16
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"21. I’ll skip the “Endcap Challenge” until another day…… This step deserves its own post!"

I have an even 'BIGGER' dent in my front end. thinking about pulling front end-cap and pushing it out...but folks say that endcap is a b*tch to get out... are they right? I'm asking because I also have a front wing window that could use replacing and replacing the panel (from exterior) would also give access to the window area etc....

wanna post the 'endcap challenge'? or point me to it if you already did.;..
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Old 01-21-2010, 03:51 PM   #17
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1986 31' Sovereign
Lorain , Ohio
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If I'm thinking right, the interior endcaps are the first piece to go inside the trailer. Hence, they can be difficult to remove because every other panel is overlapping them.

I pulled and reinstalled my front endcap in a weekend. The hardest part was getting the insulation to stay put. I'm still wondering exactly what the correct method is for that.
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Old 01-21-2010, 06:00 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fotochop View Post
"21. I’ll skip the “Endcap Challenge” until another day…… This step deserves its own post!"

I have an even 'BIGGER' dent in my front end. thinking about pulling front end-cap and pushing it out...but folks say that endcap is a b*tch to get out... are they right? I'm asking because I also have a front wing window that could use replacing and replacing the panel (from exterior) would also give access to the window area etc....

wanna post the 'endcap challenge'? or point me to it if you already did.;..
The wing window can be properly replaced totally from the outside.

No need to even unlock the entrance door, to perform that task.

Andy
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Old 01-21-2010, 08:14 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanB View Post
If I'm thinking right, the interior endcaps are the first piece to go inside the trailer. Hence, they can be difficult to remove because every other panel is overlapping them.

I pulled and reinstalled my front endcap in a weekend. The hardest part was getting the insulation to stay put. I'm still wondering exactly what the correct method is for that.
Thanks, Dan. How much interior did you have to remove to actually get the end cap off? I'd REALLY rater PUSH the dent out from inside as I don't mind a few 'beauty marks' on the trailer. I just don't like the huge dent. I don't think a new section #21 would match my 40 year old alloy either. It's pretty ugly up there, but its original...
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Old 01-21-2010, 09:31 PM   #20
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Go to Harbor Freight, get a couple of packs of 1/8" drill bits, some pop rivets and a $40 pneumatic rivet gun. Best investment I've made for the Airstream.

Pull out any furniture under the endcap. Remove any drapery tracks, snaps, electrical covers, and other misc. stuff.

I removed all panels, window frames, and trim under the endcap. I then removed enough fasteners along the ceiling panels to allow for access to the hidden rivets holding the endcap up. Be careful doing this so as not to crease the hanging ceiling panels. You will probably have to remove a few light fixtures also.

Repairing the dent will take you about five minutes after the area is clear!

Do yourself a favor, take lots of pictures while your doing this repair. They will help during reassembly.

Good luck!
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Old 04-30-2010, 08:03 AM   #21
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I couldn't get some pics I took just now of the puller to post on PM. So I will do my best not to hijack this thread! I was actually wrong It will pull up to 500 lbs! If you are still intrested PM me and I will try to hook you up in your area. Thanks Lewis
Where do i get one of these bad boys??
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Old 04-30-2010, 10:52 AM   #22
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I had a couple of bad dents in the rear of my Trade Wind (some PO had backed under a shed that was just a little to low so I had a big crease all across the back). After removing the end cap, I was able to push the big dents and hammer out the creases. If you can live with it stop there. I had creases that looked really bad. Aluminum does not work like sheet metal. It is thicker and harder. It is very easy make it look worse. To get the creases that you will have after you push out the big dent, a body hammer and dolly are the only way to smooth it. It won't be perfect but if you take your time, and never hit the metal hard just light taps and work slowly you can make it look good. Just don't go whacking with the hammer it will make it worse. Harbor Freight has a set of body tools for around 30 bucks. The other key with working is to have a good friend holding the dolly. This is the tricky part cause you are in the trailer and someone else is outside. My son and I worked a couple of hours and did good job. Not perfect, but 90% better than a big crease. On auto work you fill the surface with body filler after working with the hammer and dolly, on the A/S what you see is what you get.
Good luck.
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Old 07-21-2010, 04:04 PM   #23
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A fellow streamer cut out aluminum is shape of fish and applied over the creaces after using a bowling ball to roll out the dents. Looks arty but works and adds a personal touch.
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