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Old 12-01-2015, 10:18 AM   #1
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Fayetteville , New York
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Cutting Patches

What is the best method to cut patches from aluminum sheets? I have a HF 18 gauge 3.5 Amp Heavy Duty Metal Shears , but don't know if I should be using these, nibblers or something else. I'm concerned about the edges curling.
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Old 12-01-2015, 10:21 AM   #2
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We used a dremel with small cutting wheels to cut out, then sanding drum on dremel to smooth edges and finally wet/dry sand paper for final edge finishing.....look ma no curls


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Old 12-01-2015, 10:26 AM   #3
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Here is a sample of what we could do with the Dremel


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Old 12-01-2015, 11:09 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DFlores View Post
We used a dremel with small cutting wheels to cut out, then sanding drum on dremel to smooth edges and finally wet/dry sand paper for final edge finishing.....look ma no curls


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So you used cutoff wheels. Did you free hand it or did you use a pattern (specifically around the curved sections)?
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Old 12-01-2015, 11:12 AM   #5
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I have done many. Your metal shears will work great for cutting larger sheet aluminum patches. Use a belt sander on the edges and to radius the corners. It is also helpful to have an equal spacing tool like this one.

ADJUSTABLE RIVET SPACER from Aircraft Spruce

Unless they are small and intricate like DFloes shows in his photo. Then use a Dremel tool, cutoff wheel and sander.

Practice makes perfect. Have fun.

-Dennis
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Old 12-01-2015, 12:15 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Whalensdad View Post
So you used cutoff wheels. Did you free hand it or did you use a pattern (specifically around the curved sections)?

What we did was get an image from the Internet and save to PDF or something then print onto a sticky backed paper or clear sheet. Stick onto aluminum sheet and hack away with Dremel, you will find that you can stay pretty close to pattern by cut from top down into material around corners.

The key is to get your pattern adhered to aluminum sheet


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Old 12-05-2015, 01:07 PM   #7
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For the moon patch I spray glued paper template from CAD program and cut with tin snips. For door handle patch I glued template and cut with jig saw with fine metal blade loaded with candle wax. Sanded edges to finish.
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Old 02-23-2017, 10:00 PM   #8
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cutting patches

I used a Jig saw with metal blade for cutting most of it. Then a manual nibbler for tips and edges. Edges are a little jagged but will smooth out with a dual action sander. Practice on some scrap pieces. I used 2024 aluminum in .032 thickness.http://www.airpartsinc.com/28_Aircra...t_and_Coil.htm
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Old 02-25-2017, 06:22 PM   #9
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I used the shear too, borrowed from work. I like making round parts, then I can put the right curve in them on the English Wheel. I like the way the round part blends in.
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Old 11-27-2018, 05:51 PM   #10
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Seal then rivet? Rivet then seal?

Hi all,

I've been reading through all these awesome posts about patching exterior holes and am confused on the order of sealing and riveting. Seems to me I:

1. get alclad aluminum for cutting the patches out of (6061-T6 or 2024-T3 at least .032" thick)
2. use tin snips to cut the desired shapes (stars of course!) making sure to not cut all the way until the snip ends meet to avoid curling/denting of the patch edge
3. file down the edges of the patch using...??? perhaps just a mill file? dremel?
4. slather up the area to be covered by the patch with vulkem or some polyurethane sealant
5. rivet the patch on over the sealant using Olympic rivets - or buck rivets? I have the entire thing gutted so I'm not limited to blind rivets. However, from posts I've read it seems buck rivets are necessary for structural support but perhaps not for simply covering an exterior hole (mine are all small)

Now the alternative is to seal the patch after it is riveted, and whether I would do this from the interior or exterior I don't know. Any and all input is appreciated

Thanks for the help!!
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Old 11-28-2018, 07:42 AM   #11
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Quote by Aerowood on another thread that I thought was very informative. "Sealing between the seams is the absolute best way to keep the wet out. This is called a faying surface seal. Sealing only the inside is called a fillet seal and will not keep the moisture out of the seam itself. Fillet sealing is what Airstream does during production, and you can read about hundreds of dissatisfied owners with leak problems. If you use to much sealant you will have a huge mess. There is no need to put sealent on each rivet if you just put a bead on the seam next to the rivet holes."
He is in the aeronautics industry and has taught at restoration rallies about metals, sheeting, riveting Etc
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Old 11-28-2018, 08:00 AM   #12
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Tin snips , Beverly shear , electric shears . All depends on the ga. Of the Al.
Cut out this patch with tin snips . And this was .063........Click image for larger version

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Old 11-28-2018, 09:49 AM   #13
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Rough cut and sand edges. Drum or belt sanders work well for this. Or you can talk to a laser or waterjet cutter.



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Old 11-28-2018, 11:14 AM   #14
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My father was a sheetmetal worker and could do almost miraculous things with tin snips. Unfortunately, I can't, but did learn a few things from him. First, get tin snips that are suitable for the job. There are many varieties, but a good place to start is with cuts-right and cuts-left aircraft shears (Wiss is a good brand). The second thing is, when using tin snips, make your first cut about 1/8" to 1/4" away from the cut line. When making your final (second) cut, you will then be cutting off a little strip which takes up all of the associated deformation.

Filing, sanding, and otherwise smoothing the cut edge is a good idea. Even with the cleanest possible cut with tin snips or shears, there are nearly always ugly irregularities.

Tim
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