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Old 10-12-2013, 09:17 PM   #29
Rivet Master
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1973 27' Overlander
1972 29' Ambassador
St. Paul , Minnesota
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The pre-dimpled 40-year-old liners in my trailer might consider 1/16" extra-soft foam tape an elective surgical facelift.

The 'pull' clamping force of a 1/8" rivet is minimal, yet is additive to the physical force of the gorilla pressing the rivet/sheet assembly home. Thus a 2-4psi force for 25% compression over a birdseye circle around each rivet (not much more to collapse the foam completely) will, with a (my) nearly disposable trailer project, not be a problem in this instance. Let's insert the standard disclaimer 'not recommended for anyone else' certainly.

No need to mask off the rib face - who is gonna see the overspray? The work will be preparing the aluminum so something will permanently bind to it, it takes chemically bonding a passive & inert layer between aluminum and your flavor of paint/sealer/adhesives to enjoin a lasting union. For your little-bit 26' trailer that's only about 425 linear feet or 28-30sqft of rib face to coddle...


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Old 10-12-2013, 09:50 PM   #30
1950 Flying Cloud 7039
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1950 21' Flying Cloud
Allen , Texas
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I would put any break on the ribs, both on the inner and outer faces of the ribs, but not at the rivets. The heat transfer through the rivets and close to them will still happen but you will retain the rivet clamp and strength. Refrain from any coating on the skins as this defeats aluminum's poor radiation of heat. The cleaner the skins and even better, shinier to lessen surface area the better. But do seal the rivets and seams but do not over do it. Fill the gap with an insulation and if you can add a foil barrier as it's surface will be a better radiant barrier than either of the skin surfaces unless you polish the inward not visible skin and who would do that.

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