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Old 12-29-2009, 06:41 PM   #1
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Condensation

I`ve taken the inner pannels off of my caravel,,and removed the old wiring and insulation. We live just outside of vancouver b.c.,,which has a lot of moisture,,,every morning i go out to the caravel,,there is a lot of water on the exterior walls. I was down at the local airstream dealer a few weeks ago and was looking at the new airstreams,,,they have none painted aluminium interior walls,,there were water droplets on the ceiling of the new trailers..what i`m wondering is,,,has anybody tried undercoating the outer walls,,,i have a shutz gun that i spray gravelguard with,,would the undercoating stop the moisture problem,,,there will always be heat transfer,,which will cause condensation,,,,,,,thanks keith
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Old 12-29-2009, 11:00 PM   #2
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Hello,

I do not know the answer to your question.... but the "new" question that comes to my mind is if one did undercoat the outerwalls... how much weight would that add to the trailer? Condensation is something that happens, but in my experience a small fan or a bit of air movement takes care of most of the problem. Think boat and what boaters do (especially sail) and use similar techniques.

I hope others will respond as well, will be interested in what they have to say.
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Old 12-29-2009, 11:39 PM   #3
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I leave a drop-light with a 30watt soft white bulb burning each night in my Safari, and A vent cracked open just a bit. It has new insulation in the shell and the aluminum inner panels show no signs of condensation at all. I live 15 miles from the ocean, near Santa Cruz, Ca, and we get our share of wet weather.
I can't imagine that undercoating would solve your condensation problem. Nothing short of keeping the inside warmer than the outside will change that. This issue is exacerbated by using the trailer; by burning propane, and just breathing you will add a lot of moisture to the air, so the issue is how to get rid of it. The light and vent works for me, some use a small heater or the lucky few have their Airstreams stored indoors.

Best of luck and happy holidays to you,


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Old 12-29-2009, 11:40 PM   #4
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I have found that a 60 watt light bulb burning 24/7 does wonders for reducing condensation and helping to prevent a "musty" smell in a trailer. It adds a small amount of heat and causes some air circulation. I place mine near the floor to help with the air circulation. I used this method when I lived on the Oregon coast, the 2nd wettest location in the world. (I heard there was someplace wetter, but never learned where it might be.)
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Old 12-29-2009, 11:50 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samb View Post
I have found that a 60 watt light bulb burning 24/7 does wonders for reducing condensation and helping to prevent a "musty" smell in a trailer. It adds a small amount of heat and causes some air circulation. I place mine near the floor to help with the air circulation. I used this method when I lived on the Oregon coast, the 2nd wettest location in the world. (I heard there was someplace wetter, but never learned where it might be.)
Sam

Where is the wettest place in the world?

I used to think it was Boulder Creek. I think our best recorded year was something like 125" . I was here when we got 90". These places have me beat by a wet mile.
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Old 12-30-2009, 05:18 AM   #6
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It doesn't matter if you have a new or vintage trailer, painted walls or covered walls; condensation is a cause of a closed area with moisture and temperature. We do a lot of early and late season camping here in New England so condensation is a big deal. Two people cooking, breathing and living in an Airstream will create a lot of moisture in the air. Add to that cooling temps and get water on the colder surfaces. Placing a small fan on the floor to creat a circulation cycle and cracking a roof vent a bit will greatly reduce the condensation.
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Old 12-30-2009, 10:22 AM   #7
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Since we fulltime, and being currently in Oklahoma which is also some what of a dry area...there is minimal moisture in here, And you will see evidence on the vista view windows. We run a small ceramic fan heater from W-mart (about 10.00) that keeps it dry. I almost can bearly tolerate it because you can feel the dry. That humidity is good for your skin too. But like I said we are in Oklahoma.
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Old 12-30-2009, 10:58 AM   #8
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condensation

Thanks for the info,,,,i`ll be putting in the new floor in a couple of weeks,and i should be insulating the first part of feb...i`ve read on other threads that guys have used reflectex then covered with insulation,,mine had just bat insulation and another used reflectex with a dead air space on both sides,,there are probably a few others ways i haven`t got to yet,,,are all the ways mentioned mainly to do with heating and cooling,,,,and condention is always going to happen. Being a all metal trailer it seems it going to happen,,,,in a conventional trailer....i have a t@b trailer it gets a damp feeling but there is no visable signs of water,,it has a thin metal outside sheet and then 2 thin sheets of wood with solid core insulation between them,,,the floor is basically the same but has a rubber membrane gluded to the bottom....i love the t@b but my wife sheila doesn`t,,,that`s way i`m doing the caravel,,,,the insulating part i have to get right,,,,,,, i have a skylight on the caravel,,,there was no plastic left on it,,,so i routered out a piece of plastic and put jewellite around the plasitc and covered the opening,,,it sure lets in a bunch more light,,i kept the original housing so from a side view,,you can still see the housing and the 1 1/2 in black jewelite,,the jewelite come in a bunch of differant colours,,,,,,,,,,,,thanks keith and sheila
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Old 12-30-2009, 12:19 PM   #9
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Trout-fly, I used a material called Prodex instead of Reflectix. It holds up better to high heat situations where Reflectix fails. My Safari has 2 layers of 1/4" Prodex: one against the inside of the outer skin, and then a 1" airspace, then another layer of Prodex against the back of the inner wall skins. The results are really good compared to the old fiberglass batts, most of which had sagged down in the walls and left about 1/2 of the walls un-insulated. Prodex is waterproof and easy to cut with a razor knife & straight-edge. To do my Safari took just over $300 for everything I needed to complete the job. Not bad compared to the hassel of using fiberglass.
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Old 12-30-2009, 02:16 PM   #10
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Condensation

Thanks rick,,i like the idea of an air space ,,,it will make wiring and such a bit easier,,,what glue did you use when applying the prodex.,,we live in canada so i hope it`s sold under the name prodex,,,i`ll try home depot ,,,,thanks keith and sheila
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Old 12-30-2009, 06:25 PM   #11
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I got the Prodex on-line at www.insulation4less.com It took about a week to get to me. The insulation is installed using double-sided tape and then the edges are sealed with mylar foil tape to help create a vapor barrier. That's for the first layer. The second layer is a little more involved. I cut a piece of Prodex to fit into a space in the framing just a little loose, and stuck it into the framing. Then I took the foil tape and stuck strips onto the face of the framing, with the edges overhanging into the space where the insulation is. This leaves the sticky side of the tape facing the insulation, so the trick is to pull the insulation toward you until it hits the tape and sticks. I used a piece of the foil tape doubled over, as a handle. I would stick my handle tape to the face of the Prodex, and then pull on the tape, which pulls the Prodex along with it. I had to do this every 6 to 12 inches along the perimeter of each piece, until the Prodex was secure everywhere. I'll attach a pdf drawing to describe this detail better. If you need more info let me know.
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