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Old 03-29-2011, 02:47 PM   #1
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Caulk behind replacement rivets?

WHen you are replacing exterior rivets, do you put caulk in the holes? THanks
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Old 03-29-2011, 05:46 PM   #2
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Yes and if you have the interior skins off they also get sealed from inside as well.
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Old 03-29-2011, 06:39 PM   #3
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Maybe check around with restorers before you use "caulking". I don't have personal experience with this, but I know there are other products like "Vulkem" that are designed to be compatable with aluminum.
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Old 03-29-2011, 06:48 PM   #4
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I was assuming he meant Vulkem. Good catch Kevin.
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Old 03-29-2011, 07:28 PM   #5
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Definitely use Vulkem an not caulking. I have been told once caulking is used on aluminum nothing after it's removed will bond. Good luck.
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Old 05-31-2011, 09:34 AM   #6
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Thanks for the info. My question was a little premature. I am finally starting to pull off the windows and patch the roof. I started a thread to document my struggles. My 69 overlander journey.
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Old 05-31-2011, 09:37 AM   #7
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Don't use silicone sealants. The best advice is to use polyurathane base sealants. Sikaflex, and Trempro (Vulkem) are great. Many people also use Alcoa gutter seal or Acryl-R from the Airstream store.

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Old 05-31-2011, 09:58 AM   #8
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Depends on the kind of rivets you are using.

Bucked Rivets - No, not on each rivet. We do use Vulkem between the overlapped edges of the panels or accessories though and enough squeezes into the hole when the rivet is "bucked". The solid shank rivet compresses and fills the hole pretty completely - enough Vulkem oozes into the hole around the rivet from between the panels or drip caps, etc..

Olympic Rivets - Yes, we dip each rivet in Vulkem prior to sticking it in the hole and pulling it in addition to the Vulkem between the overlapped edges. We then clean off the excess around each rivet with a rag & mineral spirits BEFORE it drys. We NEVER use the gasketed Olympics...the little washers are supposed to help with leaks, which they might do for a short while, but they eventually deteriorate and fail then leave a gap for water to get in.

Pop Rivets - No. These are only used inside the trailer, there shouldn't be a need - the idea is to keep the water out from beween the skins so there it it's sealed on the outside, water shouldn't get inside. The only area I can see an exception is if you are using them inside a shower stall - then yes, you would want to seal them to keep the water from getting into the wall channel space. Water between the skins is the scourage of Airstream owners everywhere - it leads to floor rot.

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Old 06-03-2011, 08:40 AM   #9
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Is there a specific Vulkem I should use on banana wrap?What about the rub rail that covers that seam?Is Vulkem a product I can find locally?I haven't had any luck locally and I'm assuming it's a special order item.
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Old 06-03-2011, 08:53 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertair27 View Post
Is there a specific Vulkem I should use on banana wrap?What about the rub rail that covers that seam?Is Vulkem a product I can find locally?I haven't had any luck locally and I'm assuming it's a special order item.


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Old 06-03-2011, 09:37 AM   #11
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Quote:
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Is there a specific Vulkem I should use on banana wrap?What about the rub rail that covers that seam?Is Vulkem a product I can find locally?I haven't had any luck locally and I'm assuming it's a special order item.
Actually, the modern replacement is not called Vulkem any more...it's Trempro. It can be ordered from Vintage Trailer Supply. We use Trempro 635 but the Sikaflex 221 is the same thing - just make sure it's "gray" and not white.

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Old 06-03-2011, 02:20 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InsideOut View Post
Actually, the modern replacement is not called Vulkem any more...it's Trempro. It can be ordered from Vintage Trailer Supply. We use Trempro 635 but the Sikaflex 221 is the same thing - just make sure it's "gray" and not white.

Shari
Speaking of all this Sikaflex stuff....

How frustrating is it to go back to a tube you only used about a third of and you can't for the life of Gomer get any more out....

Three daze ago I replaced the Skylight.....When I was done I suffered a euphony and a light went on, grabbed a very course threaded Loooong wood screw shoved it down that rascal's nose, and when I went to use it today I gave that screw a tug and it pulled about two inches of cured Sika right out the end. I started tug'n gently and that stuff just stretched it's way right out.

If it works for you pass it on... If it don't blame Gomer
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Old 06-03-2011, 07:19 PM   #13
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We always stick a nail/screw in the tip, then store it in the garage fridge. Seems to help keep it from seizing up as quickly. But even still, it's best to do a bunch of caulking at one time 'cause once it's opened, it doesn't last long. Weird stuff...

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Old 06-03-2011, 08:35 PM   #14
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Wax in the tip when you put it up works ok as well...
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