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Old 01-30-2013, 07:08 PM   #1
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1971 21' Globetrotter
Redondo Beach , California
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 31
bucked rivets at lower beltline: attached to frame?

So while redoing my axle and wheel wells, I realized that the trim around the left wheel well was not attached to the plastic wheel well insert, and there was an inch gap there (which isn't there on the other side).

After some poking around trying to figure out how to re-rivet to tighten everything up, I can tell by pushing on the beltline trim that for 3 ft in front of the wheel well the skin underneath is not attached to any underlying frame. Is this normal?? Or did my original bucked rivets pop free of of the frame they were attached to?

In the first pic you can see the gap between the well and the skin, and in the second, where my finger is I could push the skin in an inch or so.

Thanks
Ben




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Old 01-30-2013, 08:06 PM   #2
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1977 31' Excella 500
Los angeles , California
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I think that is indicative of the beginning or in some cases neglect from rear end separation. Usually it will show up on both sides but if you see any gap or movement from your rear bumper compartment and where the rub rail sits on top of it then you might have to deal with that. usually the shell during separation bends in the middle and thats what causes your condition but again it usually shows up on both sides. Hopefully its just a fluke but I would look into that. Based on how clean your frame is it looks like you just finished a restore/remodel?
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Old 01-31-2013, 07:51 AM   #3
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1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
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Looks like some mods have been made to the trailer. They may or may not have been done right. Usually there is a curved trim piece that rivets to the skin and the plastic wheel tubs. There should be an outrigger in the front and back of the wheel well. Between those outriggers there is skin, plastic tub and aluminum trim to stiffen the skin so it does not flop around. Different models may differ on the exact construction and opening shape and type of trim.

Perry
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Old 01-31-2013, 11:26 AM   #4
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1971 21' Globetrotter
Arvada , Colorado
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I have the same trailer. The rivets were all sheared in front and back of the wheel wells. In my oponion Airstream did not put enought in, see my thread below for mine
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Old 01-31-2013, 01:03 PM   #5
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1971 21' Globetrotter
Redondo Beach , California
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Wow, Aerowood, you really went for it on yours. I am a little bummed to read about all of your experiences with this year/model and the evident QC issues from Airstream.

However, I must soldier on. What I am hoping to do is to NOT go down the rabbit hole too far but rather get the camper watertight and safe to get my boys out camping this spring, and not do any more damage. Save the Full Monte for another time. Any advice on how to reattach everything as a temp fix that could last a couple years?

My frame really isn't that clean. I just replaced the axle, and while it was off I wire wheeled down all the metal there and shot in some spray paint. Regarding the possibility of the dreaded rear end separation, I am not sure. When I went to look at this trailer to buy it, I had read that you can check for rear end separation by standing on the corners of the bumper and see if it sinks at all. Mine drops at most 1/8". BUT, there is this: it looks like the PO may have jacked it up or something, because the bumper at some point crushed upward into the beltline/skin. Note the pinched ID tag there. Thoughts on that?

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Old 01-31-2013, 01:33 PM   #6
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Click image for larger version

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This is very much like yours. No separation but axles and balance have always been maintained.

Click image for larger version

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This is the beginning if the end. You can see the frame bounces up and damages the rub rail.

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I'm thinking yours will probably be fine and might be a different issue but its always good practice to be on top of the separation
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Old 01-31-2013, 02:24 PM   #7
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1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
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Check for rear end floor rot. It there is rot separation will soon follow. That plate that goes under the back of the trailer is the cause of most rear end separation problems. It funnels water under the floor and between the floor and frame. If you go to the floor and frame forum you will get an education on rear end separation etc.

Perry
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Old 02-01-2013, 11:40 AM   #8
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1971 21' Globetrotter
Redondo Beach , California
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So, let's say I do have some rot in the rear end floor. What's the easiest way to address it in order to not do a complete, gutted restoration? I'd have to remove most of the bathroom to access the floor, I'd imagine, and then what? Replace the subfloor and put it all back together? Also, how do you prevent it from happening again?
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Old 02-01-2013, 11:50 AM   #9
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If you see the 1/8th drop it's probably lost one of the plies of plywood from dryrot, that allows some mild settling. My '73 had six feet of ladder frame water damage, two plies worth for the 24" nearest the bumper.

There is no easy way to repair that I know of -
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Old 02-01-2013, 12:00 PM   #10
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