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Old 05-23-2007, 09:22 PM   #1
Sparkygus
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Profile:  2007 25' International CCD FB
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Buck rivets or Olympic rivets?

We recently posted about our AS being vandalized. We now have estimates from C&G. One estimate is using the buck rivets for $2,705.79 to replace the rear segment #28, and the other estimate is for $1,998.67 using the olympic loc rivets. Since we are submitting a claim for this to the responsible party, which rivet is preferable? There is a big difference in cost. Is there a big difference in the look, or the quality? This is for a 2007 International.
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Old 05-23-2007, 09:26 PM   #2
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I would go with the bucked rivets if it's on someone else's nickel...they are better and how the factory built it originally. However, (big "BUT" coming...) they will most likely have to remove some inside panels to do it right so it might be too invasive...and ultimately cause more "issues" to live with on the inside. C & G has a great reputation for this sort of work, so I think you are in good hands either way.

We have a replaced panel on our GlobeTrotter (by PO) with olympic rivets and most can't tell or don't notice until it's pointed out. Heck, we didn't know for the first 18 months we owned it ~

Shari
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Old 05-23-2007, 09:49 PM   #3
thecatsandi
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If they buck you have to remove the interior skin. Go that route if the insurance will go for it. Supposedly not much difference in strength but it does look much better up close.
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Old 11-06-2008, 10:19 PM   #4
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I realize this is an old thread and the insurance is long paid, but I thought I'd add my 2 cents.

We sell a LOT of Olympic Bulb-Tite Rivets, so you might not expect me to say this, but I'd absolutely use buck rivets if cost is not an issue. Buck rivets are stronger. In practical terms, you'll probably never have a problem with Olympic rivets, but the shear strength is many times greater on a buck rivet (approx 16000 psi) than on the Olympic Bulb-Tite (350 psi).

I realize the 16000 psi is complete overkill, but it points to a significant difference between the two.
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Old 11-06-2008, 11:27 PM   #5
Alumanutz
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If anybody has doubts, please look at my blog. I am now in the process of removing all of the interior skins to replace the Olympics. There are photos of how the center of the Olympic falls out and the you have an instant water leak. I would never use Olympics for anything structural. Airstream did not use them when they built it and I won't when I restore it.

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Old 11-07-2008, 12:15 AM   #6
custom67as
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Profile:  1967 22' Safari
Deer Park , Washington
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I have put about 100 of the Olympic rivets in my Airstream and another 100 in my 55 Boles-Aero so far and I'm not done with it. The Airstream has had them in for 2 years and I have not had any trouble. I caulked every blessed one though and maybe that's the difference. The only time I had holes was while installing the rivets. For some strange reason the center comes out while installing them every now and then. Then I have to drill them out and try again. No matter what rivet one uses, you better caulk them or you will be asking for trouble. It's a pain to do but better to be safe than sorry later.
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Old 11-07-2008, 04:03 AM   #7
62overlander
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This topic sure does come out a lot... Serious kudos to Steve for being honest and not just promoting what he sells.

BUCK THEM!
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Old 11-07-2008, 12:14 PM   #8
ts8501
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Can someone comment on what should be used when they replace the belly pan?
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Old 11-07-2008, 12:40 PM   #9
crispyboy
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ts8501,
I put my belly pan back on with these large flanged rivits. They work great.
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Old 11-07-2008, 12:51 PM   #10
InsideOut
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by crispyboy View Post
ts8501,
I put my belly pan back on with these large flanged rivits. They work great.
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We used the same.

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Old 11-07-2008, 02:34 PM   #11
ts8501
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Perfect, thanks!
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Old 11-10-2008, 09:30 AM   #12
VintageRV
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I don't want to leave an impression that Olympic rivets are poor quality. They are excellent and there are hundreds of thousands of them in use on Airstreams at this very moment. They're just not aircraft-grade structural rivets. They're all you need for almost any repair, but when you're finished, you may not want to fly your Airstream at 30000 feet.
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Old 11-19-2008, 03:46 PM   #13
Airstray
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Can someone explain the difference between Olympic rivets and the aluminum rivets sold everywhere? Airstray
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Old 11-19-2008, 04:24 PM   #14
InsideOut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airstray View Post
Can someone explain the difference between Olympic rivets and the aluminum rivets sold everywhere? Airstray
This older thread might help...specifically these pictures.

Basically there are three different kinds of rivets:
  • Bucked Rivets - Solid and strong - BUT, you must have access to both sides of the rivet in order to install them. Also, in most cases, a second person to help install them. These are the kind that were originally used on your Airstream exterior.
  • Olympic Rivets - three legged with heads that look like solid bucked rivets, if they are shaved properly - can be installed w/o removing interior panels. These are often used as replacements for bucked rivets when you don't want to or can't dismantled your entire interior to access the back side of the panels being riveted. Not as strong as bucked but strong enough for most small repair projects and/or non-structural uses.
  • Pop Rivets - the kind you can get at the hardware store, they have a stem & hole in the center - can also be installed w/o removing panels but were only used on the interiors of Airstreams. They aren't nearly as strong as the other two types.
Shari
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