Best rivet tool?

[Andy R]

What make/model rivet tool should I get?
What do they cost and where is the best place to get one?

[PeterH-79MH]

You knew I couldn't pass on this one.
For small rivet jobs the cheapos at your local hardware store work fine. They just tend to jump on that last pull. (usually you have to pull the trigger 2-3 times for the mandrel pull out)
That 'jump' can really mess you up, working on the skin. And its easy to get a finger caught when squeezing the trigger. But that you only do once.
I ordered a Emhard Powerlink30 from byler rivet supply. Very nice and soft.about $45.-

http://www.emhart.com/products/pop/powerlink.htm

[2333]

2nd Question - for which I am sure is in the forum somewhere, is that the original rivets in the AS have no holes in the middle, all the ones I see on that linked site and other places are the "POP rivet" kind.
What gives?
Craig

[greg176]

I have a couple of the cheap impact guns but have never tried them to rivet.A job worth doing is a job worth doing right.I have a 4X rivet gun but would recommend using a 2X or 3X.These guys have all the good stuff including bucking bars.
http://www.yardstore.com/index.cfm?A...ry&Category=94

Ebay might also have the tools you need.I bought a few things there, including a steamboat drill.
The blind rivets most common on the Airstreams today are Olympic rivets.

[markdoane]

The original rivets are solid rivets which are "bucked in" using a pneumatic rivet gun and a bucking bar.

The rivets normally used in repair are blind rivets called Olympic rivets, they operate like a pop rivet, but have a stem which needs to be shaved off flush.

[JimGolden]

Get a Sioux 3x gun. Get the head piece with the rubber ring around the edge and the swivel joint to prevent the "half moon" or "smiley face" indentations.

Sioux is pretty much the standard for the airplane guys. You'll pay $250 for one. Use froogle.com to find the best deal.

[CanoeStream]

Andy -- I've had mixed experience with pop rivets. Ace Hardware products are junk and will break long before pulling the backing up tight. Arrow rivets seem okay but the Arrow guns wear out and will produce the same premature stem break after a couple weekends of work. I know I've had somebody from the Southeast speak for one that is very reliable.... now to find it! AlanSD? WahooNC??

Olympics for outside shell work seem more reliable -- just remove any rubber gaskets if you happen to get that type. Sealing with a bit of Sikaflex 221 is a good idea.

[68 Overlander]

This thread is over four years old but still just as relevant. The best all around rivet tool I've used is the Gesipa Flipper. It has low effort and is a manual tool instead of pneumatic. When I do over ten or so rivets, I grab the air hose but this is the best all around unit I've used and you feel like you are using an air model. http://www.gesipausa.com/manual_installation_tools.htm

[CanoeStream]

Ah yes, I tho't it was one of our Southeast mods. Also see this thread: http://www.airforums.com/forum...tools-638.html

[2333]

Good stuff here and on that thread. To us newbies, this info is most vital. Even "How to remove rivets" is overlooked. I have searched tons off threads for how to get started and most go like this....

• Jan 1 - Well, we decided to do the Full Monte..
• Jan 2 - Dropped the belly pan.....

How the hell did they get from there to there!!!!! That info should be in the "Basics" sections or something. But, I did find it through reading between the lines and such. I think being skilled at removing rivets is taken for granted once you learn how. I basically now use the drill out the head method, then pop it off with a chisel. Maybe once I get posting pics down I will start that thread. Now to Google "Olympic" Rivets....Hopefully that doesn't mean you need to be of Olympic caliber to use them correctly....
Whoa! I got a pic of my U-channel on! See the belly skin wrapped around the outer edge by the chisel?