Any idea where to find a skilled, mobile buck-riveter?
I am in quite a pickle out here in the boondocks, with my "solid floor," "no water damage," "all appliances and systems working," "running gear in good condition" recent acquisition.
Although great effort was expended to hide the damage (second layer of plywood -- over fill material in worst spots -- covered by sheet vinyl), the subfloor is seriously rotted and must be replaced. I have removed interior, am now in quandary re. shell-on vs. shell-off replacement.
Shell-off seems the more comprehensive approach, and makes frame repairs and axle replacement easier. But I would need a skilled person to help me buck-rivet the shell back on, and I'm about an hour from any major city. Does anyone have an idea where to locate such a person, who would come to me? Would small rural airports for private planes be likely to have a sheet-metal riveter person around? Or any other types of businesses?
I am in quite a pickle out here in the boondocks, with my "solid floor," "no water damage," "all appliances and systems working," "running gear in good condition" recent acquisition.
Although great effort was expended to hide the damage (second layer of plywood -- over fill material in worst spots -- covered by sheet vinyl), the subfloor is seriously rotted and must be replaced. I have removed interior, am now in quandary re. shell-on vs. shell-off replacement.
Shell-off seems the more comprehensive approach, and makes frame repairs and axle replacement easier. But I would need a skilled person to help me buck-rivet the shell back on, and I'm about an hour from any major city. Does anyone have an idea where to locate such a person, who would come to me? Would small rural airports for private planes be likely to have a sheet-metal riveter person around? Or any other types of businesses?
Thanks for any input!
Lynne.
The shell "is not" buck riveted to anything.
The shell is reinstalled using pop rivets and then hiding them with a molding.
The shell is reinstalled using pop rivets and then hiding them with a molding.
Andy
Andy,
When did that change occur? My 1954 Double Door Liner has screws on the front and rear cap but buck rivets down both sides which secure the shell to the belly wrap and floor channel.
Bill
__________________
Bill Kerfoot, WBCCI/VAC/CAC/El Camino Real Unit #5223
Just my personal opinion
1973 Dodge W200 PowerWagon, 1977 Lincoln Continental
1979 23' Safari, and 1954 29' Double Door Liner Orange, CA
Like Bill's, on mine, the belly skin wraps up and over outer edge of u-channel (which is bolted to frame & screwed to sub-floor), outer skins come down over belly skin to level of bottom of sub-floor, then all 4 layers of aluminum (tucked-over edge of belly skin+u-channel+belly skin+outer wall panel) are BUCK-riveted together.
So, this single row of buck rivets along the bottom of outer skins is not only cosmetically important, it's a crucial structural element.
Any other 1950s era owners have a different arrangement?
Bill's correct. The only hidden pop rivets might be under the belt molding, however on mine they were a solid rivet. The rest are all exposed solid rivets going through the lower section of skin through the turned up portion of the belly skin and through the "C" channel. An alternative would be to use olympic rivets in place of the bucked rivets but I would question their resistance to shear. Installing solid rivets is really a simple process, the only downside being that it takes two people and you have to spend some money for a rivet hammer.
__________________
Paul & Annie
"No matter where you go, there you are..."
WBCCI #7162
Charter Member - Heart of Texas Camping Unit
AIR #1565
Buck riveting is "NOT" necessary to refasten the shell back to the floor channels, regardless of the year of construction.
If the trailer has rub rail moldings, you use 3/16 pop rivets.
If you want to use the 3/16 pop rivets, and don't have rub rail moldings, you can add them.
More importantly, you can akso refasten the shell to the floor channel, using olympic rivets. They will work just fine.
If your really concerned about using olympics to hold the shell to the floor channel, then double or triple the number. Whatever it takes to make you happy.
BUT, buck riveting again, is not necessary.
Furthermore, if the original construction used hardened rivets, that would be one thing. What Airstream did use is "soft" rivets, which do not have that much strength to begin with.
Bottom line, is there is no need to make a project out of something, when it's not necessary.
Life has enough setbacks, without looking for more, just because you have an Airstream.
Most of use know the 'kiss" principle. Don't stray from it and you will be fine.
I think I would stick with the bucked rivets. By the time you buy 500 or more Olympic rivets, and the shaving tool, it would be cheaper to buy a rivet driver and bucking bars. That's the way I did it.
I am sure that Airstream used hardened rivets in the original construction. I would not recommend using soft rivets. The way to identify hardened rivets is by looking for a small dimple in the center of the head.
If you look at 65GT's recent post on rivnuts, you will see what the dimple in a hard rivet (on the left) looks like.
FWIW, My '73 uses both pop and bucked rivets to hold all of that area together. Seems to be a good combination, I found only a few of these damaged when I pulled things apart to repair the frame and replace the floor.
Jim
__________________
To lodge all power in one party and to leave it there is to insure bad government. -- Mark Twain
My 60 tradewind has all bucked rivits as well .but if any of you have drilled them out you have discovered they are not hardend rivits ,as the drill cuts through them very easily.that being said ,their are different grades of hardness with rivits , some very soft on up to harder grades depending on what your usage is ,the rivits my trdwnd has are not of a high hardness rating and no dimple ,but definatley stronger than any pop rivit .Airstream motor homes by the way are assembled with olympic rivits,yes it's true,go up and look at one and you'll be surprised that thats how they are made.
Scott, I ordered some parts from Colaw off a '76 Overlander a couple of months back. The outer skin panels on it were nailed down with Olympics. I'm beginning to think that rules were only "guidelines" in the '70's models.
Jim
__________________
To lodge all power in one party and to leave it there is to insure bad government. -- Mark Twain
Scott, I ordered some parts from Colaw off a '76 Overlander a couple of months back. The outer skin panels on it were nailed down with Olympics. I'm beginning to think that rules were only "guidelines" in the '70's models.
Jim
That was most likely a repair, not original construction.
My 1971 as well as my 1963 had bucked rivets holding the shell on the floor channel, and a few pop rivets on interir brackets inside the skin. No pop rivets on the entire exterior. The molding was held on by pop rivets, however.
Bucked rivets are a big advantage when you have access to both sides and a lot of riveting to do. Mainly they're cheap(Buck rivets don't require as much doe). With two experienced riveters, they're fast, too. They come in every size and head configuration and strength(blind rivets are limited). They are , all things being equal, stronger, too. Not really important when it comes to trailers, even, alas, A/Ss. As Andy has pointed out, Olympic rivets work just fine. I add the proviso that the Olympics must be finished off with a special shaver or they wont look very good if just filed off.
__________________
"Not all who are lost are wondering" say Bill & Heidi
'78 Excella 500,"The Silver Pullit". vacuum over hydraulic disc brakes, center bath, rear twin. '67 Travelall 1200 B 4X4 WBCCI 3737
Last edited by Excella CM; 06-09-2006 at 07:37 PM.
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