71 Globetrotter Full Monte - Page 8

Aerowood · 10-05-2007, 06:53 PM

No pics today, I forgot the camera. I had a very productive day today, the rt. fwd skins back to the door and banana wraps are all ready to shoot on. I did shoot the rivets that I could reach though. Tomorrow AM one of my co-workers (Brent) is going to buck for beer. We should have the rest of the rt. front shot on by noon at the latest.

doorgunner · 10-05-2007, 09:01 PM

Hey guys; I used to run the Marina at Lake Dillon in the early80's, I've "done" Colorado

.
And trust me. I would no way even make an attempt to harm a reworked AS!!
Now for the questions.
Kip;
this week I etched and alondined a prop mount for a prototype airboat.I think the alu was 6061-T6. think.
In the past I've used the same chemicals and the alu turned a real nice soft gold color. That did not happen this time. The previous spinners were 2024. See where I'm going with this. Why the change of color? Chemicals came from the same 2 jugs! Just wondering if type of alu comes into play.
I recall reading on another thread that Aircraft Spruce also sells alodine that will not color the alu. any comments! Kip- Zep- Melody R- Boatdoc ??

Aerowood · 10-05-2007, 09:16 PM

Different alloys of aluminum will take alodine at different rates. 6061-T6 will not take alodine very well unless the surface is machined or abraded with a scotch brite. It also requires a longer immersion time to "take color" then 2024-T3. Cut edges also will except alodine faster then the face.

Aerowood · 10-06-2007, 03:54 PM

Rt front skins and window shot on

NevadaGeo · 10-08-2007, 03:32 PM

Temperature comes into play also with chemicals.

Aerowood · 10-09-2007, 07:11 PM

I started on the left front corner today. The wing window was installed with sheet metal screws, so I knew this needed work. I removed the window that was installed with plumbers putty and RTV and opened up another can of worms. The second segment up skin was really dented under all the silicone and the window structure was in the way for rework, so I removed that segment in order to straighten things up. All went well, and I shoot it back on with no issues. The window on the other hand is plastic and starting to craze at the upper corners. I will need to do something about this.

HiHoAgRV · 10-11-2007, 08:48 PM

Man you guys are impressive craftsmen. It reminds me of my youthful trips to the EAA convention and seeing the likes of Jim Butlers Mustang 1, completely flush rivited and polished - truely a piece of art.
Keep it up!

Aerowood · 10-13-2007, 05:42 PM

Removed street side lwr. corner today. I also fabricated new skin and drilled it up along with the banana wrap. It was another busy day.

malett · 10-13-2007, 07:38 PM

The more upkeep/repair and reading in the forums I do about airstreams,
I begin thinking more about the similarities between them and submarines.

1. You don't want any water to get in.

2. In the submarine we planned on having condensation in the hull (underbelly) so we had a way to get rid of it.

3. Galvanic corrosion was gonna happen (seawater/salt on the roads, acid rain, stray current, and dissimilar metals etc).

So this is what I'm doing :

Before we dove on the submarine we would build up a little air pressure inside the hull. If you couldn't do it you better not go under

. Air check for leaks with bubble solution.

I'm putting vinyl soffit vents in the underbelly. You can get these in various diameters (1" to 4") they are made with a chevron grid to let air in and out, but deflect water. I made sure that the insulation in the under belly had a vapor barrier installed towards the heated area (floor). It originally did not have a vapor barrier. Secondly I made sure that the insulation stays where it belongs by utilizing the 24" insulating wires for holding it (you can purchase these at most hardware stores for holding insulation in ceilings), utilizing a wire grid where there was enough properly spaced holes in the trailer frame and were neither could be used I used contact cement on the vapor barrier and precisely cut the insulation and stuck it to the floor.

I reused the original aluminum sheets. Some had bad galvanic corrosion in the rivet hole areas. This was was due to contact with the steel frame.
I did not have the time to procure new alum. so had to place a patch across these areas so the stainless screws I was using would hold.
I just happen to have some 45" zinc strips left over from my roof.
Patches and zinc anodes in one. We shall see how this works .

Also, because stainless steel will gall very easily I used anti-seize on the screws.

I welcome the comments from the fly-boys

Aerowood · 10-13-2007, 08:01 PM

It sounds like you have the problems well taken care of.
I never though of it as a submarine, as I'm biased toward airplanes. I've been using aircraft fuel tank sealant in all the seams I've had open. It's a real mess to work with, but will be worth it in the long run when I don't have to deal with water leaks. All the hardware I'm using is aircraft. I'm spoiled on the stuff and I just can't seem to bring myself to using the hardware store stuff after using the really good stuff.

Aerowood · 10-14-2007, 11:04 AM

To any moderators out there: This project of mine has evolved some what further then the original post titled "Skin Corrosion" Would it be possible to change the title to "71 GT Full Monte" or would it be best to just leave it alone? Opinions anyone?

Zeppelinium · 10-15-2007, 10:06 PM

Yes, change it!

BTW, I'm back from two weeks on the road. Look for posts to pop up almost anywhere!

Zep

Aerowood · 10-16-2007, 08:55 AM

With the way that my 71 Globetrotter project has evolved I had the name changed on my thread "Skin Corrosion" to "71 Globetrotter Full Monte" to better reflect the scope of the project.

Thanks
Kip

Aerowood · 10-19-2007, 08:25 PM

Shot on the front skin and the street side lower corner. Two more to go, so the race is on if I can get them done or the snow flies first.