I got the rear most skin primed on the inside and drilled. Started the replacement of the streetside rear corner skin. Started to get cold and dark out so will finish up this one on my next day off.
I finished up fitting up and drilling the left rear corner skin today. The original was a compound curve skin so I had to do some flanging and shrinking to get everything to fit and line up properly. I also fitted up and drilled the stringers on the rear skin. The right rear skin is going to be a lot easier now that have done one already. I will start the right rear this weekend.
Most of the rear compound curve panels on my globetrotter have many dings and small dents. I was curious if I could remove them without using a hammer and dolly and this is the tool I came up with, Its like half of an English Wheel and in some places I had my daughter's boyfriend Ryan back me up with a bag of lead shot. I then removed the rt rear corner for replacement
That is looking really nice...Thanks for taking the time to post all the pics. Can you explain what flanging and shrinking is?? This is exactly what I need to do...although I would be buying the preformed panel I believe...I just am not brave enough yet.
Could you do a panel replacement without removing the interior and just working from the outside or would it be impossible?
Did you put sealant on in between the panels before you did the cleco's or is that something that comes after it's riveted back up?
Sorry so many questions.... More pics more pics!!!! Thanks
__________________
Ann & Eric
WBCCI # 6274
NEU
"Enjoy the little things in life for someday you will look back and realize they were the big things"
I'll try to answer your questions one at a time. A flanging tool just bends the edge of a piece of metal over. unlike a brake that will only bend over a straight line a flanging tool will brake the edge over on a curve. I only broke over about 1/2 of the panel on the upper and lower edge at the corner. I then had to shrink that edge in order to roll panel around the corner. The shrinker tool has jaws that grab the metal and compress it, forming the flanged edge around the corner. I also had to shrink the panel when it mates with the aft most panel. The original panels are compound curve panels.
It is very possible to change skin panels without removing the interior, You would just have to use "Olympic" blind type rivets.
Sealent is added to the mating surfaces of two panels just before they are riveted together. I am waiting to rivet things back together untill I have the rt. corner panel fabricated. I still need to fab two pieces of the banana wrap and then I'll have to buy some beer to get one of my co-workers to help me shoot rivets. He said he would only buck for beer. A small price to pay, besides, I think he owes me, for me helping him hang drywall.
Yesterday I discovered that the rear center panel and the last frame member that is visible from inside the bumper storage box must be replaced. From anyone who has removed the panel and or floor in this area, I would like to know if the steel piece that runs on the inside at the bottom is a straight run or does it goes under any part of the floor or channel? It's a goner also.
I hope to have a welder take a look at it on Monday and I won't be able to take anything else apart for a clearer view before then.
the one I removed from my Globetrotter ran under the floor and was made of galvanized Steel. It was a bent piece that ran 3 inches fwd between the frame and sub floor. Mine stooped in width just short of the vertical frames. I replaced mine with .063 2024-T3 aluminum. A picture of the one I removed is on #29 of this post.
Thanks Aero that info will help a lot in figuring out what has to be done. I too plan to replace with aluminum. I have already started looking for the metal I need but it looks like I will be running uphill on finding some alclad to do the panel with. It sure would be a good time to be near a base, suppliers for all that are usually easy to come by. Finding supplies is gonna hold up the repair.
Even after all I've read on this forum I was taken back a little and wondered if no one had ever heard of dissimilar metal problems in the '70s. Since I have minimal floor rot, I'm sure that is what caused this.
Flanging and shrinking sounds a little out of my league but thanks for the clarification. I have another question for you...Once you drilled out all the rivets how hard was it removing the panel with all the sealant in there and what tools did you use to separate the panels??
Somebody should make a video on step by step panel replacement...this would be so helpful!!
Thanks again!!
__________________
Ann & Eric
WBCCI # 6274
NEU
"Enjoy the little things in life for someday you will look back and realize they were the big things"
Thanks Aero that info will help a lot in figuring out what has to be done. I too plan to replace with aluminum. I have already started looking for the metal I need but it looks like I will be running uphill on finding some alclad to do the panel with. It sure would be a good time to be near a base, suppliers for all that are usually easy to come by. Finding supplies is gonna hold up the repair.
Even after all I've read on this forum I was taken back a little and wondered if no one had ever heard of dissimilar metal problems in the '70s. Since I have minimal floor rot, I'm sure that is what caused this.
TB
I hope you can find the aluminum locally. I did not use .032 when I made the new one on mine, I used .050 because it is what I had. Still 2024-t3, but I used bare instead of Alclad. It will still polish up, but with more efort on my part. I am epoxy primmining all mating surfaces and none visable surfaces, it's the best defense to preventing any future corrosion. Also check for a scrape aluminum dealers in your area, thats where I get some of my sheet and extruded stock.
Flanging and shrinking sounds a little out of my league but thanks for the clarification. I have another question for you...Once you drilled out all the rivets how hard was it removing the panel with all the sealant in there and what tools did you use to separate the panels??
Somebody should make a video on step by step panel replacement...this would be so helpful!!
Thanks again!!
After all rivet removal I just used a thin putty knife with the corners sanded round (to prevent gouging). Sealant was minimal between the seams but heavy on the inside fillet seal. The putty knife with a hammer helping it made short work of cutting all the sealant
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