I took the day off today to finish up the Door. I trimmed the panel to fit and drilled a few more holes and got the panel ready to install. I then insulated the door with pink foam board spaced a 1/4" away from the exterior skin. This is probably the only place that I will insulate with foam. I wanted that thud sound when closing the door, and I think I achieved it. I then installed the inner skin with flush rivets as I plan to veneer the skin with cherry later on. Did I say that the new latch works good?
Does anyone know if the "D" shaped door and window seal (Inland Part# 45370) is self adhesive on not?
I purchased some from Andy and indeed it is self adhesive. Be sure to clean the surface your applying to really good. I use a fine grade rotary wire brush in a drill and then clean with mineral spirits.
We had some epoxy floor paint left over at work from when got the floor painted. My boss was going to get rid of it so I grabbed it. Today I put the first coat on the subfloor to just seal it all up abit.
Last weekend I plugged some holes on top of the shell, The two aft vent holes, the old bathroom vent, and on the front, the TV antenna coax hole, and the TV antenna hole.
I took the day off today to finish up the Door. I trimmed the panel to fit and drilled a few more holes and got the panel ready to install. I then insulated the door with pink foam board spaced a 1/4" away from the exterior skin. ...
I need to come up and check your door fit. How'd the curve work out after you got the frame welded? It has been my experience that the doors seem to "un" bow so that the top and bottom aren't snug. Maybe it's the shell changing shape a little, due to road bumps. Don't know.
Your foam idea is great, especially spacing it away from the outer skin.
There was alot of work getting the top and bottom to fit correctly. What I did was install the the door on the hinge in the position I wanted on the trailer and then do the final drill of the new skins with the door frame clamped in the trailer door frame. After riveting on the outer skin with the door removed (you can't buck the rivets with the door in place) I then drilled and installed the inner skin with the door in place. I actually had to shim out the top because it was to snug before I blind riveted the inner skin on. I had cut the outer skin big so I then had to trim the skin for the reveal. I towed it down several miles of dirt road last weekend and had zero dust intrusion. It then rained like a cow pissing on a flat rock Sat. night and I had zero water leakage.
Last weekend I plugged some holes on top of the shell, The two aft vent holes, the old bathroom vent, and on the front, the TV antenna coax hole, and the TV antenna hole.
Damn, you used 14 rivets on the bigger patch up front, and more on the vent hole? I'm only using 8 or 12 on that size. Yours looks good. What's the standard, here?
Thanks! Same guys I got my rivet gun from. I read in one of your earlier posts that approx 3/16 of the rivet should be protruding through the hole before bucking. Any other tips you can pass my way? I've been practicing with the new 3x gun and I can't tell if the rear is mushrooming enough to hold. Been also searching for a Riveting 101 video on the net to no avail. Thanks Aerowood!
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Hi, Aerowood. This seems like the hard way to remove a WBCCI decal. 
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