I put on a new main door striker. and continuing with my hatred of pop rivets and sheet metal screws I install self locking stainless steel 8/32 Keenserts to install the striker plate
As stated in my last post I don't care for sheet metal screws so I installed sealed nutplates to mount the new LED lights. Below is a photo sequence from stepping up the hole size to #10 for the drill fixture, drilling #40 holes using the fixture, cleaning up filiform corrosion using a 3M bristle cone brush, countersinking the holes using a microstop with a #40 pilot to the final install of the nutplates
No, you don't have to, but I will. I also need to seal up the wire hole because the new LED's lights have the wires comming out at a different location.
Can you tell us more about the 3M bristle cone brush? It looks like something that I could use but I have never heard of them before.
Thanks,
Malcolm
Sure they work great at removing minor surface imperfections without digging in. We get them from one of our consumables suppliers. After looking them up they are actually called "Bristle Discs Rolocs" different grits 50, 80, and 120are available.
I found them at these sites
Have'nt worked on the GT for a while as we have been using it. First pic is at Turquoise Lake, Leadville Colorado. the rest of the pictures are of the door frame. I removed the old skin which was not 2024-T3 as it was dead soft. The door has been reworked (poorly) by a PO. The door must have been in some kind of accident due to all the damage. The pictures tell the story. I am also changing the style of latch. This mod will not be for the faint of heart, as some machining will be required on the door frame along with a new internal stringer. So off to see my buddy Bart, our certified aircraft welder.
I still don't have my door frame back from the welding shop, so I decided to finish up the front window. I removed the window and then the frame as it had an obscene amount of silicon on the upper portion of the frame. I cleaned it all up, removed the foam gasket, and then cleaned and plugged holes that were no longer needed. I also drilled up a section of extruded piano hinge for the hinge of the not yet fabricated front rock guard, sealed it all up and riveted it all back together. A full day. I'm working alot of overtime right now, so I'm not getting as much done this summer as I would like.
Kip, looks like the hinge is an integral part of the window frame! Am I seeing it correctly--you only have one side of the hinge installed, eg, the hinge wire is removed?
BTW, is that my wing window or did you put BEDFORDS' in? Did they have a different fit?
Zep, The hinge is a separate piece. It's MS20001-8 Extruded Aluminum Hinge. I took the hinge pin out and removed the other half until I fabricate the front rock guard. The street side window is indeed the the outer pane of the dual pane that I got from you. The glass was thicker then the stock unit so I had to go with an injected seal. I have Tomorrow off so I am going to change a partial skin in front of the entry door.
I removed the window and then the frame as it had an obscene amount of silicon on the upper portion of the frame. I cleaned it all up, removed the foam gasket, and then cleaned and plugged holes that were no longer needed.
Your window looks very much like mine. How difficult was it to remove? What did you plug the holes that were no longer needed with?
__________________
Todd
“Complications arose, ensued, were overcome...savvy?”
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