I use nutplates on Zip Dee installations whenever I can get at the inner side of the shell in those locations.
Zep
My plans WERE to purchase my Zip Dee awning after I completed my restoration. Do you suggest that it might be better to install it (at least the brackets) while I still have access to the backside of the outer skins? There were some old brackets (not Zip Dee I think) that I removed from the lower belt line that had been attached with large lag bolts (3/8" I think) that were pulling at the skin. I was thinking there must be a better way.
My plans WERE to purchase my Zip Dee awning after I completed my restoration. Do you suggest that it might be better to install it (at least the brackets) while I still have access to the backside of the outer skins? There were some old brackets (not Zip Dee I think) that I removed from the lower belt line that had been attached with large lag bolts (3/8" I think) that were pulling at the skin. I was thinking there must be a better way.
Now would be the best time to, at the very least, install the Zip Dee mounting hardware. This is where nutplates are very handy. You will never have to worry about hardware coming loose, pulling out, or stripping out.
Now the images in #178 are showing up in my browser. Cool!
Quote:
Originally Posted by monocoque
Check out post number 178 for the belly pan. The photos aren't close ups of the nut plates. However, maybe Kip will post some close ups of them. I would be interested in seeing them too.
Now would be the best time to, at the very least, install the Zip Dee mounting hardware. This is where nutplates are very handy. You will never have to worry about hardware coming loose, pulling out, or stripping out.
Makes sense. Is it possible to order just the mounting hardware and not the entire awning, in order to put off the expense of the awning until it's necessary?
Is it possible to order just the mounting hardware and not the entire awning, in order to put off the expense of the awning until it's necessary?
I do not know if it would be cost effective buying it in parts. Maybe no difference. However, I am not sure how you would know the bracket locations without the complete awning being available. I have never installed one. Someone with experience might be able to shed some light on this.
I need to move this to another thread so as not to hijack Kip's.
I was able to get my hands another main entry door hinge but it was worn like my current one . I ordered bronze bushing from Mcmaster & Carr and installed them to day. The hinge is now real tight, almost to tight. Pic #1 shows it in the mill followed but installing the bushings then lapping the hinge pin to the bushing and then assembled. I also ordered new stainless steel rod for the hinge pin.
I was able to get my hands another main entry door hinge but it was worn like my current one . I ordered bronze bushing from Mcmaster & Carr and installed them to day. The hinge is now real tight, almost to tight. Pic #1 shows it in the mill followed but installing the bushings then lapping the hinge pin to the bushing and then assembled. I also ordered new stainless steel rod for the hinge pin.
Nice! Is the mill used to install the bushings? Just curious but is that a rivet gun I see sitting there?
__________________
Todd
“Complications arose, ensued, were overcome...savvy?”
No, I just pulled them in with a nut and bolt. The bushing compressed a little so I had a hard time removing the bolt on the first one, so after I got it out I turned it down in diameter for the rest.
No, I just pulled them in with a nut and bolt. The bushing compressed a little so I had a hard time removing the bolt on the first one, so after I got it out I turned it down in diameter for the rest.
What role does the mill play in the process?
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Todd
“Complications arose, ensued, were overcome...savvy?”
I had to bore the exisiting oblonged hinge pin holes to .311 to recieve the bronze bushing that had an OD of .3125 and an ID of .250. I then used lapping compound on the new hinge pin to open them back up after the bushing compressed due to the interferance fit of .0015. The pin is still pretty tight but it will wear in. It has zero slop at this point. I can now start the door reskin and new style latch now that I have a zero droop door hinge.
... I then used lapping compound on the new hinge pin to open them back up after the bushing compressed ...
I'll toss this to the folks that may not be familar with bronze bushings, ya' gotta flush 'um pretty good after lapping or cutting because the same properties that allows them to hold oil for self lubing, also holds abrasives when your done.
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Vernon, Sarah, Mac the Border Collie and- 'Epiphany' the 29' Airstream
Yes it took a bit to get the lapping compound cleaned out. First was the solvent tank and a bore brush followed with acetone and a cleaned 32 caliber bore brush followed by rifle cleaning pads.
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